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Make a Lamoille lighter

Maybe I will add glass layer in stern and bow, just for skidplate.

As I know one finnish kayak repair shop, they use only glass when they repair kayaks, even kayaks can be with kevlar or carbon structured.
 
It was long wait to get carbon fibres fron Germany to Finland. I don't find 150 cm wide carbon fabric from my local shop, so I must order them from Germany.

Today I laminate 2 layers over the plug and it was much more difficult and time consuming, than I expect. Now I should wait long enough to get laminate out of plug.

I dont take weight of fabrics or resin, but I use around 5 kg resin and that is really too much. But I cant do anything for it anymore, so there will be around one kilo too much weight. I hope that after this first phase, canoe weights around 8 kilos, but reality can be something like 9,5 kilos.

Sorry for dirty workshop....
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It looks very good so far. I am always disappointed with how much resin it takes for carbon and Kevlar if not infused or vacuum bagged.

Did you hand laminate both layers at once? I have found that to be very difficult with carbon and Kevlar but pretty easy with fiberglass.

I have a very messy shop too and I like seeing other messy shops. It makes me feel better about mine. :)

Alan
 
I laminate both layers in same time, and it was not as easy as in my two sample laminatings what I made earlier. Smaller part were easy to do, but canoe was much much harder. It takes too long to squeeze resin in to laminate and get all air out.

Tomorrow I will give some heat for canoe maybe something like 40 celcius for 5 hours to speed up resin curing.
 
It takes too long to squeeze resin in to laminate and get all air out.

Yes, that was my experience as well. I also had difficulty removing the excess resin that would get trapped in the bottom layer without squeezing too much out of the top layer. The excess resin did not want to flow through the layers of cloth but rather I had to push it all the way to the edge of the laminate to remove it. When done I would end up with small pools of resin trapped under the cloth with the top layer showing dry patches.

Looking forward to watching how yours progresses from here!

Alan
 
Looking forward to the results. For a big boat like the lamoille and a homebuild getting a hull onder 10 kg is great to me.
better a messy worshop the no workshop at all. So i am verry jealous.
 
The hull will get more weight, when I add core foam and inner carbon layer, if this is under 14 kilos without trim I am happy. Or not exactly happy, but it wont be any lighter. Everything under 20 kilos when this is ready will be good enough.

Now I am thinking that I should make a female mold. Even there is some difficulties with infusion, result will be better (or full crap).
 
Today I get canoe out of plug, in the beginning it feels like this won't ever come out, but I take it slowly and use almost 1,5 hours to get it out. I should put 4,5mm plywood strip between plug and canoe to get canoe out. I must look carefully what I do to avoid destroy canoe, but all went well.

I also closed stems, I try to get stems little bit narrower, than original but tomorrow I see results. Stems are laminated only inside now, there would be some sanding outside, before I can laminate outer layer to stems.

Then there is difficult question, should I put foam only to football, or should I make also ribs? Football seems to be easy task, but ribs seems to be PITA to get them looking good. I am thinking that I add one carbon layer instead ribs. What do you think about this? If don't make ribs, I should reinforce some areas like seats, thwarts and jokes attachment points.
I am leaning to make football only, but I am not sure.

Some pictures of today:

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I've only made one boat with a foam core and I also wondered if I should do foam ribs or not. My boat was relatively small and would not see much abuse so I decided that when I laid the interior cloth instead of using one piece of cloth I would use multiple pieces with about 12 inches of overlap. I made sure these overlaps coincided with the seat positions. The hope was that these overlaps, with an extra layer of cloth, would function as ribs to stiffen the sidewalls.

The boat turned out fine. Maybe it would have been fine even without the overlaps but it was easy enough to do.

I'm glad you were able to get the boat released from the mold. I've struggled every time I've done it but, thankfully, have always succeeded in the end.

Alan
 
I’ve done it both ways, football foam only and football with ribs.
For my usage, the ribs are overkill. There’s plenty of added stiffness from the gunnels.
Whichever way you choose, just be sure you get the foam 100% attached to the hull. You’re using some thick foam, was it 10mm? That will make a very stiff hull.
 
You’re using some thick foam, was it 10mm? That will make a very stiff hull.
I use 10mm PVC foam (60kg/m3), and if I don't make ribs, I will use vacuum bagging to get air out. Of course I can use vacuum bagging with ribs, but this whole canoe thing is new for me and now I feel like I like to get it ready as easy as I can.
 
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