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Milling ash rails

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Sep 4, 2018
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Location
Northeast Ohio
This adventure was inspired by Robin and his canoe restorations. In particular, his rail replacements on different boats over the years. I wanted to see what it would take to mill rails from one of the last of our dying white ash trees. The first wave of the ash borer took out most of our ash quickly 10 or more years ago. We still have a few hanging on and this small tree died just in the last year or two. It is one of a few that looked like a candidate for clear wood at least 18’ long.
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Not terribly large, maybe 12” at the small end which is the only end that matters when milling. The log ends got a wax coating to reduce splitting. The mill is not set up to handle anything this long so there was a lot of horsing around to get it up on the bed and then move it once it was there.

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Ash is notorious for having a lot of stress especially when young. Running it through the mill was like watching a potato chip being made or, maybe more optimistically, the prebending of canoe rails... I was trying to quarter saw the pieces and, as much as possible, have the grain run continuously over the length of the rail. The highest quality wood in ash comes from just under the bark. The center of the log is unstable and has a lot of defects so just the outer 4 or 5 inches was usable with this log. Every piece came off the mill with a heavy bow and had to be forcibly clamped down vertically by hand as the saw head moved along the bed to keep a consistent thickness. Woodmizer doesn’t do vertical clamping, only horizontal.

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Luckily, the lumber was really clear and resulted in 4 or 5 usable sets of rails.
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As close to quarter sawn as I could get them given the small diameter of the log. They’ve been sprayed with a borate treatment to keep the beetles out and stickered to air dry for a year or so. They’ll get strapped tightly to reduce twisting and additional bowing. A lot of effort for a few sets of rails but a nice reminder of a beloved tree disappearing from the eastern hardwood region.
Rob
 

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Nicely done. Hopefully they don't twist and the bowing can be put to good use during installation. Milling is very rewarding but also frustrating; oftentimes both with the same log.

Alan
 
When I did my ash gunwales I approached it a bit differently. Our sawmill can only handle boards up to about 9' or so, so that's what I had to work with (I needed 16'). I started by picking a straight grained piece from a stack of stickered planks that had been milled the previous year, it dried perfectly straight. After running the plank through a planer to get the desired thickness, I ripped the strips from the plane on my radial arm saw, which I also used to cut the scarfs to splice them after milling the round edges with a router table and a roundover bit. The rest is here. The spliced gunwales hung from the ceiling of our screen porch for another two years (life got in the way) before they were finished and installed on the canoe.
 
Well done. I always hate to see the wood wasted if left to rot when the trees die or get blown over. Hopefully, you can get them dried straight.

I'll have similar issues with twisting soon as we'll be milling some Black Locust. I'm interested to see if it remains bright yellow when dry.
 
This adventure was inspired by Robin and his canoe restorations. In particular, his rail replacements on different boats over the years
Thanks for the “atta boy”, I just used rough sawn 10’ers, you brought it to a whole new level. Well done imo.
When I lived in Connecticut I had 14 acres of mostly forest but no ash. I also had a saw similar to yours, maybe smaller. I sold the saw before I moved to Maine, now I have tons of beautiful healthy straight ash but my days of felling trees are over.

My problem is that after I have the ash rails glued and sanded, I’m afraid to ruin them by trying to cut rabbits or round them over with my small hand held finish router. I have tried to learn by practicing on smaller wood but I never reached that confidence level to try it on finished 20’ long rails.
 
My problem is that after I have the ash rails glued and sanded, I’m afraid to ruin them by trying to cut rabbits or round them over with my small hand held finish router. I have tried to learn by practicing on smaller wood but I never reached that confidence level to try it on finished 20’ long rails.
I always scarf join my gunnels but that is because long lengths are not available, 3M being typical. I first machine them to height and width then use the router table to cut the rebate up to where the scarf will be - about 30cm from the ends. I then cut and glue the joints then finish the rebate section in the middle with a handheld router. I round them over on first fitting after canvas and filler but before paint, then remove them to varnish the backs before final finish with alternate paint / varnish on the undersides to seal
 
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