Refinishing wood gunwales

[Erica]

I need to refinish/maintain the wood gunwales on my Colden Dragonfly.

Knowing nothing about the process, I thought it would be a matter of light sanding and an application of tung oil.

This morning, I am learning, via google, I need to clean the wood with tri-sodium phosphate first. But TSP is bad for the environment. So should I use a phosphate-free TSP substitute? Or I’ve also seen suggested baking soda or borax. Apparently the substitutions do not work as well as the real tsp.

After getting it clean and dry, there comes some light sanding followed by the tung oil. But the first (and maybe subsequent?) coat of tung oil is supposed to be diluted with “Thin the tung oil with a solvent. Stir together equal parts oil and mineral spirits, turpentine, or organic citrus solvent in a spacious container.”

I would be grateful for some helpful guidance on this task. Thank you,
Erica

 

[pblanc]

Unless the wood on your gunwales is stained to the point that the stains will not be removed by sanding, there is no need to use trisodium phosphate. I have never had a need to use it on any of my wood-gunwaled canoes.

I don't like using Tung oil on gunwales although I have used it on wood paddles. Some people do like it for gunwales. Tung oil takes a long time to cure and multiple applications are typically needed which have to be separated in time to allow prior applications to cure. I find a so-called "penetrating oil" to be easier to apply. There are many different types but Watco Teak Oil is widely available and seems to give give results in most people's hands.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I agree with pblanc. Sanding has always been sufficient for all my wood gunwales, and I don't use tung oil on gunwales. For a so-called penetrating oil product I prefer Watco Teak Oil, which is a mixture of linseed oil, varnish, solvents and driers. There are several varieties of Watco: the "Teak" is for use on outdoor wood like boats while the "Danish" is meant for indoor wood like furniture. There are varieties of each with different subtle color shades mixed in.

I actually don't enjoy gunwale maintenance, so after getting several canoes I found myself neglecting periodic Watco treatments because maintenance with penetrating oils must be done fairly frequently. Therefore, I have more recently moved to a wipe-on poly varnish such as Minwax. Wipe-on varnish is a diluted polyurethane varnish, so it will last longer between applications than oils. You don't need to brush it on like full varnish; rather, you just wipe it on with a cloth as with the penetrating oils. You can get wipe-on poly in a satin or high gloss finish.

Finally, you could use a full brush-on varnish, which will last the longest (many years) but will be subject to running and dripping if your technique is not good.

All these products will require more than one coat, perhaps several, with drying in between.

In the hot, moist Florida climate you will have to be particularly diligent in protecting your wood gunwales.

 

[Bob B.]

Good advise here. I enjoy oiling my gunnels … and have experimented with many types. For years my go to was boiled linseed oil. It penetrates well, protects well, is easy to get and is easy to use. However, I do not use it anymore as it can mildew . I have had mixed success with tung oil. Personally I do not prefer it on my canoes. Watco teak oil is good stuff.

My preferred oil for gunnel maintenance now is hemp oil from Badger Paddles. I find it similar to BLO, may be a bit better, maybe not-but it will not mildew. I use it on my wood paddles too from sassafras to ash. I also use it on axe handles.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

BLO will turn black with mold. It's okay for paddles and axe handles, which dry off quickly. However, water can stay on gunwales and seep into the cracks, especially on canoes stored outside. Tung and hemp are mold/mildew resistant, but tung can take long to dry.

My preferred oil for gunnel maintenance now is hemp oil from Badger Paddles.

Bob, how long does the hemp oil take to dry compared to others, and how often do you apply it?

 

[Bob B.]

Glenn,

like any wood, humidity , density of the wood and how dry is are all factors. Wisconsin summer temps and humidity when working on new gunnels … one coat dries ( soaks in pretty fast ). I apply, when dry or nearly so, hand rub off …can get 2 to 3 coats on per day. I let gunnels sit in the sun to warm up for a good 1/2 hour first. I think it penetrates about as fast as BLO.

same procedure on older gunnels with a bit of a patina. I know I am good when after about a half hour or so the oil does not look like it is soaking in much.

in either situation, the oil has to be rubber off ( especially BLO) or it will get sticky. I like the lid adage, oil once a day for a week. One a week for a month, once a month for a year, then whenever you feel it needs some. I canoe often so sun (UV) and water as well as car topping wind take their toll. I oil my gunnels about 1 or 2 times a summer. Sometimes more often.

some of my paddles are oil finished only, I apply more often for them.

oops, I am rambling Glenn, sorry. I think Hemp oil takes about the same time to dry as teak oil or BLO, and may penetrate a bit better on woods like ash or hickory which are pretty dense.

 

[scoutergriz]

t the first (and maybe subsequent?) coat of tung oil is supposed to be diluted with “Thin the tung oil with a solvent. Stir together equal parts oil and mineral spirits, turpentine, or organic citrus solvent in a spacious container.”

I would be grateful for some helpful guidance on this task. Thank you,
Erica

whatever product you use will need thinning for the first 1-2 coats to help it be absorbed into the pores, this adds more durable protection and preservation because it helps "key" later coats into the wood and provides protection if you scratch or gouge the surface coats. Most finishes that are oil-based can be thinned by about 50% with plain paint thinner, shellac- based finishes are thinned with alcohol.
My personal preference is to remove the wood work and soak it in polyurethane "spar varnish" thinned to about 25%, then when almost dry do another coat of 50% varnish, followed by a few more coats of straight varnish which acts as a sacrificial wear layer and is touched up as needed.
You can use metal eavestrough as a tank for soaking gunwales.
the first time is tedious but it makes future maintenance easy, The woodwork on my kippawa has held up fine for over 15 years using this method.

 

[alsg]

100% pure tung oil is my go to.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I'm sure Erica is by now dazzled by the uniformity of opinions. Actually, Erica, there is some positive music in this cacophony: that is, experienced folks have successfully used a variety of products to maintain wood gunwales.

Some products take longer to apply, some take longer to dry, some may need more coats, some cost more, some are more available locally, some may be available only on the internet, and some may be available in the small quantity that you need. Some may have uses to you other than gunwales.

Take your pick, use it twice, form an opinion, and next year you can be an expert, too.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I'll second Watco Teak ! That is all I've ever used. I don't go by the instructions.
Brush it on , and leave it ! yeah ,it takes a long time to cure, but it lasts, if taken care of !
Store those canoes inside !

If you can loosen the gunnels it would be great to coat the back side with Watco also.

A trick I use, to make application easy. This way there is no need to mask the hull with tape.

 

[Ruttrowe]

What was the original finish that was on the gunwales?

 

[Erica]

What was the original finish that was on the gunwales?

I believe it was tung oil.

I’m a bit nervous about all of this because I’ve never owned and cared for an expensive boat (or wood gunwales) before and am afraid of mucking it up.

I appreciate all the information a lot. I’ll have to continue to think on this. Meanwhile, I can get the sanding done.

I wish I could keep it under cover, but we don’t have a garage.

I like the idea of putting the boat upside down. Clever.

 

[stevet]

Watco teak oil applied per directions on the can has worked well for me for decades. No need to overthink it….just my 2¢ worth.

 

[Ruttrowe]

I believe it was tung oil.

I’m a bit nervous about all of this because I’ve never owned and cared for an expensive boat (or wood gunwales) before and am afraid of mucking it up.

I appreciate all the information a lot. I’ll have to continue to think on this. Meanwhile, I can get the sanding done.

I wish I could keep it under cover, but we don’t have a garage.

I like the idea of putting the boat upside down. Clever.

Found this on a web search https://woodworkerlodge.com/teak-oil-vs-tung-oil-vs-linseed-oil/. Might be helpful info.

 

[stevet]

Call Dave Curtis at Hemlock Canoe (585)-367-3040 and ask him what was originally applied?? Think it’s Watco.

 

[deerfly]

Call Dave Curtis at Hemlock Canoe (585)-367-3040 and ask him what was originally applied?? Think it’s Watco.

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Teak Oil

 

[tketcham]

Found this on a web search https://woodworkerlodge.com/teak-oil-vs-tung-oil-vs-linseed-oil/. Might be helpful info.

Thanks for postsing that link, it's a concise assessment of the three types of oil. Teak oil is my go-to for canoe trim because gunwales and thwarts are a lot like lawn furniture.

 

[alsg]

Regarding thinning tung oil prior to application, it isn't terribly important to do since the gunnels were already finished with tung oil from the factor. I'd lightly sand, vacuum, wipe down with a damp cloth, let thoroughly dry and then go after it with 100% tung oil. I use a small piece of cotton rag (old tshirts that don't have lint are ideal) to apply. You must be careful because tung oil-soaked rags left to dry can spontaneously combust, so make sure the used rags are spread out out flat and somewhere well ventilated and away from anything combustible until they are dry. Ideally hung from a line that isn't near anything.

 

[Jim Dodd]

If you can't store your canoe dry, and under cover ? You are throwing your investment in that nice canoe away ! Maybe you can find someone to store it inside at least for the Winter !

I've replaced several set of gunnels, because the owners didn't store there canoes out of the elements.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Call Dave Curtis at Hemlock Canoe (585)-367-3040 and ask him what was originally applied?? Think it’s Watco.

Erica has a Colden Dragonfly, which she got from @yellowcanoe, not a Curtis Dragonfly. Yellowcanoe may know what Colden originally used, but that doesn't really affect what can be used in subsequent times after sanding. I know Dave Curtis uses Watco Teak on his new build wood gunwales.