Axe handle build

[Jamie]

I've built my share of paddles, worked on a few canoes and have made and sold all kinds of nic nacks for the wife and others. For the sake of trying to match my original axe handle, I've decided to take a crack at making my own.

I'm by no means an axe expert and when it come to making things out of wood I do it as a hobby, not as someone who knows what the heck their doing . So I'm all open to "constructive" criticism and comment from those who know better.

The handle on my Walters has (to put it in canoe terms) great lines. I'll make a template to the best that I can with a pencil I acquired from my kids.

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Accurate, heck no but it's a start....

I was after just a slightly shorter axe than the original, so I modified my template to make the handle an inch shorter.

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Hard to see but of my pile of wood, I managed to pull this piece out with what I believe is a suitable grain orientation.

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With a template, I can trace with the best of them...
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I'm fortunate enough to have a bandsaw to take off most of the waste.

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Marked of the rest to be taken off.
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Now the fun stuff begins, out with the hand tools.

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I prefer spoke shave over most other tools,

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Had to take quite a bit off with the spoke shave, and really I will likely take some more off later. Picture below shows this mornings progress. Handle is wet, just for show. Really wasn't that hard of a job. I'll tackle what I perceive will make or break this project, the top, tomorrow.



JP

 

[ppine]

Good idea, but the original handle is quite beautiful with that lovely cross grain and patina.

 

[wysedav]

I thought the same thing the old handle has some really cool looking wood.

 

[Jamie]

Good idea, but the original handle is quite beautiful with that lovely cross grain and patina.

Beautiful, yes, but if the head comes off when I swing it I may not be around any longer to enjoy it

 

[Guest]

Wow. That is so much nicer then anything you could buy, even if you could find a store that carried a selection of axe handles.

 

[Jamie]

I could always drive in another small wedge or 2 to try and snug it up but I've always heard this wasn't a proper fix. If it buys me a couple years i'd be all for it if I can keep the original handle. Thoughts on the extra wedges???

 

[Guest]

I could always drive in another small wedge or 2 to try and snug it up but I've always heard this wasn't a proper fix. If it buys me a couple years i'd be all for it if I can keep the original handle. Thoughts on the extra wedges???

I’m curious about the extra wedge question as well.

I have used just the wood wedge that came with my purchased axe handles, cut and shaped to fill the top of the eye when seated the best I could. I have had some gaps at the top and filed them with G/flex epoxy. I don’t know if that is actually recommended, but it looks cleaner.

In a previous thread Glenn M had linked to the US Forest Service specs for handles from axe providers and I recall that they specified epoxy and two plastic wedges.

“Plastic wedges”? I draw the line at an epoxy fill.

I have noticed that a lot of modern axes come with a weird circular wedge. I know bupkiss about those, but I expect there’s a reason for the circularity (which may be nothing more than ease of production).

 

[Canotrouge]

I've driven an extra wedge in some of mu handles and it work just fine. the worst part is to remove the metal locking wedge that most axe handle have. one thing you could do to is sack the head(with handle on) in a bucket of linseed oil for a few days, if the head is loose cause of the handle being dry, it could easily fix your problem!!

 

[Jamie]

For the sake of a couple od bucks, i'll pick up some wedges and give it a shot. Should be able to find another axe head to continue the project down the road.

 

[Philtrum]

This looks like a great project! The only thing I can suggest is to use a drawknife instead of a spokeshave for the rough shaping. It takes off more material and is more controllable.

Re canotrouge's idea of removing a tight axehead, another approach might be to put some very dry sand it in a bucket, put the axe head into the bucket, and put it all in the sun. It shouldn't be long before the sand draws any remaining moisture out of the head end of the handle. Just don't leave it in overnight or it will re-moisturize.

 

[BWCA66]

This looks like a great project! The only thing I can suggest is to use a drawknife instead of a spokeshave for the rough shaping. It takes off more material and is more controllable.

My problem with most hand tools is that they are all right handed!

 

[Jamie]

New approach... that handle on the Walters is nice, i'll put some effort in it to try and salvage it with wedges and oil. Still want to continue with my project so I simply put an ad out looking for an old axe head. An hour later and $10 out of my pocket, I picked up an old Hults Bruk (1.0, 2-1/4lbs) axe head. Not made in China, so it must be ok .

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I've cleaned it up a bit, needs some more tlc but will continue with this head on the axe handle.

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JP

 

[Guest]

Should be able to find another axe head to continue the project down the road.

You are treading on dangerous ground my friend. I never intended to venture down the axehead path. It just sort of happened, with a little help from my friends.

Could you feel the ghosts looking over your shoulder nodding their approval too?

Now, when you're just killing time, looking at flea markets or thrift shops, keep an eye out for your axe head. It's out there waiting for you! A person could almost make a song about it!

"Some enchanted afternoon, you may see an axe head, across a crowded flea market table....."
"Then fly to her side and make her your own........"


Never struggle against Kismet....

I think I need to step away from the axes for a bit. I just fetched that Michigan Double to begin engraving a Biltmore Stick on the handle, and when I passed my son in the kitchen I couldn’t help but poke my head around the corner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV4xo_rF-oo

 

[wgiles]

I have been able to resurrect a few old ax handles by pulling the old steel wedges out or chiseling the old wood wedges out. Once the wedges are out, the handle usually can be worked out of the ax head. With the handle out, you can assess the condition of the wood and whether it is salvageable. It is often possible to restore the ax just by replacing the wedge. Some of the axes that I remember had nails and all sorts of junk driven into the handle in an attempt to tighten the head. I only use wooden wedges.

 

[Jamie]

Took on the top of the handle this afternoon. didn't have camera with me but i'll see about getting some shots tomorrow. Here's a quick shot with the phone.

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Before I sink a wedge into it, I have to option of getting the head polished down at a family members machine / welding shop. Should I? I like things to look as old as they should but i'd hate to change my mind after sinking in the wedge...

On another note, I can see buying axe heads being quite addictive, just like canvas canoes but less work

 

[Philtrum]

My problem with most hand tools is that they are all right handed!

But not drawknives!

 

[Canotrouge]

Re canotrouge's idea of removing a tight axehead, another approach might be to put some very dry sand it in a bucket, put the axe head into the bucket, and put it all in the sun. It shouldn't be long before the sand draws any remaining moisture out of the head end of the handle. Just don't leave it in overnight or it will re-moisturize.[/QUOTE]
I guess I didn't explain my self properly... What I was saying, is the it is hard to remove the small metal wedge(sometime it is in the forme of a small cylinder) that lock the wooden wedge in place. To drive an other wooden wedge in, it is preferable to take the metal wedge out first. Anyway.

 

[Guest]

Before I sink a wedge into it, I have to option of getting the head polished down at a family members machine / welding shop. Should I? I like things to look as old as they should but i'd hate to change my mind after sinking in the wedge...

On another note, I can see buying axe heads being quite addictive, just like canvas canoes but less work

If they can polish it without getting it too hot, why not.

I’ve been fairly happy with wet sanding through 600 (or all the way to 1500).There are still some blackened dings and dents and a near mirror finish everywhere else. I kinda like to old/new combination.

Axe stuff is way more addictive than I suspected. It is a lot easier than major canoe refurbishment, and there seem to be gobs of old axe heads available for a sawbuck. Or is that an axebuck?

 

[ppine]

Most old stuff, probably knives and axes included is worth more in its original condition. Do not get too robust with your shing and buffing. Patina is what collectors want and it takes years to get it. Rust is not good, but be careful with everything else. I like your original handle a lot.

 

[Guest]

Most old stuff, probably knives and axes included is worth more in its original condition. Do not get too robust with your shing and buffing. Patina is what collectors want and it takes years to get it. Rust is not good, but be careful with everything else

I understand the value of original patina to a collector, but I have no plans of ever buying, trading and selling old axe heads or knives on the collector market.

There are gobs of old axe heads on E-Bay and the like for small change for folks who value original patina. If it is going to be mine, or I’m going to give it away, well, I like bright shiny, sharp things.

I came back to the old Council Tool Michigan Double and wet sanded the head to 1500. I also inscribed the handle as a Biltmore Stick with the appropriate notches and numbers. And stamped the butt end of the handle with the initials of the original owner.

Now that I have a sharpening stone I need to finish the edges.

Must. Stop. Playing. With. Axes