Saturday, June 11, 2022, Day 17
The whisky the evening before was probably a bit too plentiful; I slept through the sunrise and didn't get up until around 7:30 a.m. Outside, I was greeted by fog and a light drizzle. Although everything was damp, I was able to light a fire. After three cups of coffee and granola for breakfast, I felt stengthened for the journey ahead. The weather improved; patches of blue sky could be seen and soon the sun was shining.
It wasn't until after 10:15 a.m. that the camp was packed up and the canoe loaded. Out on the lake, I was once again paddling against a headwind. The portages to Jeep Lake were relatively easy to walk.
I was hoping to find some shelter from the wind at Jeep Lake. The wish was probably father to the thought here, but unfortunately it was not fulfilled.
After leaving Jeep Lake, things became a bit confusing. At a rapid where I couldn't find a portage, I had to wade, line and paddle. Shortly after, I encountered a very bony section that also required wading and lining. At the end of this section, another rapid awaited me. The creek was blocked with logs. That's why I optet for the portage, which didn't looked like it was used often. It was short, steep, and full of blowdown.
The rest of the route to Brennan Lake was clear. Thanks to the high water level, I was able to paddle through a shallow area between a headland and an island that would normally require a portage.
Although I was still about three kilometers away, I could already hear the roar and rumble of Brennan Falls. Brennan Falls can be navigated in several ways. With the high water level, the safer option was the "northern route" or "shortcut" described by Bruce. I slowly approached the entrance to a narrow passage. The current was very strong. A bay to the right offered a place to land, look for the portage, and check if this first passage was navigable. What would have been a C1 run at normal water level had huge waves. I had to carry around it.
The following two narrow passages are normally navigable, but I had to carry my canoe and gear around to the right because high, standing waves had formed there as well. No portages could be found in these two sections, so I had to make my way through the woods.
As I approached another drop in a narrow passage, I soon realized that this one also had to be portaged. A glance from the shore at these rapids suggested that one could simply paddle through at normal water levels. At least a good path could be found here.
Finally, another portage awaited, leading between two side channels. Getting into the canoe at the lower end, in the heavily blocked riverbed and raging water, was a challenge. As soon as I reached more open water, I encountered the strong current and choppy waters of the actual Brennan Falls outflow. I was able to cross them by a front ferry and reach a camp on an island.
It was already late when the camp was set up. At 9:00 p.m., I ate a very welcome trekking meal. I was tired from the strenuous day, but still excited. Probably a result of an adrenaline rush. I kept the fire burning until the mosquitoes and blackflies became too bothersome. As soon as I had settled comfortably into my sleeping bag, I quickly found peace and fell asleep.
Sunday, June 12, 2022, Day 18
I woke up several times during the night. Perhaps it was the constant roar and thunder of Brennan Falls, perhaps the vibrant atmosphere, perhaps the adrenaline, or all of these factors combined. I got up before sunrise. A very special atmosphere greeted me outside.
Shortly before sunrise
Soon there will be boiling water for a coffee
Standing waves below Brennan Falls
Shortly after 9.00 a.m., everything was ready to continue. Before paddling out onto Granite Lake, I took a break on a small island. I wanted to take advantage of the beautiful, warm weather to wash myself. I would have loved to bathe despite the cold water, but I didn't want to put any more strain on the wound. I also would have had to re-bandage it afterward, but I ran out of bandages.
Granite Lake greeted me with a moderate headwind. My route took me away from the Allanwater River, across two portages, to McWade Lake. Around midday, I stopped for a break in the southern part of the lake. A group of Canada geese had gathered in the small bay, apparently also resting.
I had to paddle the entire distance to the northern part of the lake against an increasingly strong wind. The lake's elongated shape offered no protection from the wind.
Along the way, a flock of Canada geese overtook me in the sky and continued their northward migration
As I reached the northern end of McWade Lake, dark clouds hinted at a change in the weather. I was all the more pleased to discover a fire pit on the north shore. I quickly went ashore and put up the tarp. No sooner had that happened than the heavens opened. A cloudburst with lightning and thunder rolled in. The tarp was hanging in a sheltered spot, which attracted countless mosquitoes and black flies. For the first time on this trip, I had to use DEET.
Camp at McWade Lake
After the thunderstorm
I found a sheltered spot for the tent. The mosquitoes and black flies were becoming increasingly bothersome. I also had another visitor: a chipmunk, which took an interest in the ingredients I had laid out for cooking. No, actually I was the visitor, the chipmunk had its residence here.
The annoying insects prompted me to seek shelter in the tent shortly after dinner.
