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Thwart Material

Joined
Dec 20, 2021
Messages
7
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Location
Lincoln County, OR
Hello everyone,

I'm in the process of properly outfitting my Trapper 12' for lake and pond fishing and need to fabricate a utility thwart; it will hold a hook patch, two rod holders, a recess for odds and ends, two cleats, and a very important cup holder. I currently have a pine prototype that I cut out of an unused coffee table top. I royally screwed up the recess and will inlaying some dividers.

PXL_20260209_020832031.jpg

My question is regarding choice of wood; ash is the industry standard for thwarts, but I live on the Oregon Coast. As stated above, the prototype is recycled pine; is there any reason that a softer wood wouldn't be viable for a thwarts in a (almost) strictly flat water boat? I'm partial to red alder for personal reasons and general affordability, but birch and various available conifers seem attractive for a boat that shouldn't be bouncing off of anything. Am I missing anything?

As per the purpose of this forum, I do fully intend to eventually trip out of this glorified Pack.

Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Ben
 
I'm thinking that since your contraption isn't a structural thwart, most any kind of wood would suffice, as long as it is treated to repel water. In most canoes, thwarts are usually very narrow, but important for hull rigidity, so hardwoods are preferred. However, given the stated uses for your canoe, I'm sure softwoods would be fine.
 
Any of the woods you stated would be fine for your purpose. Thwarts are only occasionally and intermittently exposed to water so rot is really not an issue (unless the boat is inappropriately stored). If you wish to provide the ultimate in protection, when all cutting, drilling, etc. is complete, coat all surfaces with a couple of coats of epoxy before applying varnish.
 
I'll agree with both of the above and would use whatever I find aesthetically pleasing and affordable. As mem points out, it's not structural.

My only other consideration (since you mention tripping) might be weight but I'm not sure if you'd be planning to portage your utility station / thwart or not (lots of people take luxury items so you certainly could)
 
you have a very dense and strong material that grows in abundance there and is also ideal for intermittent water exposure while still having a very nice grain pattern and color, but it is heavy and difficult to work with hand tools- BC fir...
The grain is almost arrow straight and the sapwood is only a little stiffer than spruce, heartwood would probably be to dense and stiff, which could cause it to be somewhat prone to checking and cracking with intermittent water exposure and the resulting swelling and shrinking.
I used a slab1 1/4 by 22"x 70" to make a tailgate for a trailer that lasted more than 20 years and was beaten half to death regularly with absolutely no finish for protection from the elements
I've also made a few thwarts and seats for large freighters that outlasted the cedar hulls. If you have a decent woodworking and power tools, you might want to take a look- often you can find #2 special or #3 fir being sold as roof boards, and 4/4x 12 (3/4' thick) or 6/4 resawn (9/16, 5/8,or 11/16", you should be able to find the length you need in clear, knot free sections within a 12' long board
 
I wouldn't suggest a softwood like pine. It might be strong enough across the middle of the board but I'd be concerned about strength around the fasteners at the end of the thwart.

Sitka spruce is the standard for aircraft construction but is getting hard to get; Douglas fir is an alternative.
 
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