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Stacking packs for portaging
- Thread starter Alan Gage
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I used to do it a lot before I wrecked my back! simplest way was to put my canoe pack on and buckle it snugly, take my wife's internal frame and rest it on my thighs with the straps facing away (so you don't hang your self) and quickly snap it up and over my head and settle it on top of the canoe pack. If you do it right, the back band should settle flat on top of the other pack with one strap running horizontal across your neck for a stabilizing handle.
Putting it down is another matter! I find it best to let it slide off one side and grab the strap as it falls.
Putting it down is another matter! I find it best to let it slide off one side and grab the strap as it falls.
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I've done the same as above! Always put the heaviest pack on and then flip a lighter pack over!!
I'll carry the larger heavier pack with a smaller lighter pack thrown sideways on top. I tighten the top pack straps first before throwing it up. The top strap can be used as a tump to steady the load. It works for me.
It works for me and the biggest benefit is that I would rather unload a 40lb pack and a 25lb than unload one sixtyfive lb pack. Thats what saves my back.
How do you keep the top pack from falling off on uneven ground or when squeezing through trees on tight trails. Brad mentions using the strap (shoulder?) as a tump line. If not using it like a tump do you just hold the straps with your hands?
Alan
Alan
The top pack basically balances on there and it can improve the performance of the tumpline for some reason. I usually will grab a strap of the top pack for added security but I can't say that I've never had one fall off. But it is rare.
When you carry this way you also have the option to drop the top pack if you get tired or encounter a steep pitch.
When you carry this way you also have the option to drop the top pack if you get tired or encounter a steep pitch.
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Ok, I have to say it. Is this a guy thing? How many of you are raving about the lightest canoe you can possibly get, and then going on about taking TWO packs so you can carry more weight in one trip. That sounds rather counter intuitive if you get what I am saying.
We take more packs of a lighter weight and make extra trips because walking is really easy, and the last thing I need is to wrench or compress my back, or a knee, by carrying overly heavy packs. It only make sense. No one ever got hurt by making an extra trip, just like no one ever drowned on a portage.
We take more packs of a lighter weight and make extra trips because walking is really easy, and the last thing I need is to wrench or compress my back, or a knee, by carrying overly heavy packs. It only make sense. No one ever got hurt by making an extra trip, just like no one ever drowned on a portage.
My wife and I do a double carry, we carry the same weight per carry weather it is in one pack or two, and she uses the two pack carry also.
Debating how to pack food for my next big trip. Do I have it flown in somewhere and pick it up en-route ($$$) or bite the bullet and carry two food packs. As the 2nd food pack (probably 30L barrel) starts to get lighter I can throw it up on top of my gear pack, which isn't too heavy. Or on top of the 60L as the trip goes on longer and they both get low. Carrying it with the canoe would be an option too.
I didn't count but I'm sure my Bloodvein trip had over 100 portages, some being over a mile long and very soggy. I'm expecting similar next year. An extra pack means 7 trips across each portage instead of 5. Not interested in doubling up two fully loaded packs but I don't want to walk an extra 2 miles just to carry a 20 pound pack, which it will be down to after a couple weeks.
Alan
Nope.
Our 30L food barrel is always the heaviest item on the portage. It's packed to the rim. Our 115L pack is large but only about half as heavy as the barrel. The kitchen gear/tarps pack is pretty light. The canoe is also light. I remember Mihun practically dancing down the port with it. I've started carrying a ditch kit pack (BOB-Bug Out Bag) rather than a fanny pack ditch kit. The two light packs can easily be carried on the two heavy packs. My wife and I are Hobbits, but we can manage.
When we try out the 60L barrel this year (thank you ladies) we'll need to rethink reconfigure the whole thing.
When we try out the 60L barrel this year (thank you ladies) we'll need to rethink reconfigure the whole thing.
Hi Allen. Solo is easy, its just a technique to learn.
Put on the base pack. For stacking (or as I say, for a T-up), lay the pack to be T'd up in front of you, sideways. Grab each end of the shoulder strap closest to you with each hand. In one smooth arcing motion, and fast so that the momentum of the pack carries it to the top, pull the pack around to the one side high, and then just let the arc continue until it rests sideways behind your head, across the base pack. If you get the arc right, the pack will "want" to settle right behind your head on top of the other pack. Do not cross your arms. If you cross your arms it won't work. Keep the arms parallel and just heave up with that smooth arc motion. Use physics to swing that arc way out and up, and that pack will almost finish the move on its own. Its not a difficult strength move. Practice with a light pack and you will get it for life. Then its just muscle memory.
You will likely find you do it the same way on one side every time. I always arc up the T'd pack lift to the right. As others have mentioned you can use the shoulder strap as a light tump, which is what I do, and it keeps it from sliding off. The pack shoulder strap you grabbed closest to you will now be the closest one to your head, so the control is never out of your hands.
Some guys do a straight flip over their head of the T'd pack. I find that method is too hard and jarring for me, and if it fails, its hard on the back catching the falling pack. I like the graceful arc swing to the right and up for a smooth pack landing.
Put on the base pack. For stacking (or as I say, for a T-up), lay the pack to be T'd up in front of you, sideways. Grab each end of the shoulder strap closest to you with each hand. In one smooth arcing motion, and fast so that the momentum of the pack carries it to the top, pull the pack around to the one side high, and then just let the arc continue until it rests sideways behind your head, across the base pack. If you get the arc right, the pack will "want" to settle right behind your head on top of the other pack. Do not cross your arms. If you cross your arms it won't work. Keep the arms parallel and just heave up with that smooth arc motion. Use physics to swing that arc way out and up, and that pack will almost finish the move on its own. Its not a difficult strength move. Practice with a light pack and you will get it for life. Then its just muscle memory.
You will likely find you do it the same way on one side every time. I always arc up the T'd pack lift to the right. As others have mentioned you can use the shoulder strap as a light tump, which is what I do, and it keeps it from sliding off. The pack shoulder strap you grabbed closest to you will now be the closest one to your head, so the control is never out of your hands.
Some guys do a straight flip over their head of the T'd pack. I find that method is too hard and jarring for me, and if it fails, its hard on the back catching the falling pack. I like the graceful arc swing to the right and up for a smooth pack landing.
Not much to add to the discussion but here goes. I have a day pack, a canoe pack and a blue barrel. My barrel is a left over pharmaceutical barrel. It's like a taller version of a 30L barrel that I got off ebay for like $15 plus shipping. I carry the day pack when porting the canoe and stack the barrel on the canoe pack on the next trip. There is no harness available for this odd ball barrel so I have to steady the barrel with one hand on a handle. Not the best stack but it works. Dave
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