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Some Noteworthy Events on 10,000 Island Trip

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The Ten Thousand Islands

In April, we took a short trip into the Ten Thousands Islands. We left from the put-in at Collier-Seminole State Park and followed the tide out into the Islands. (The Blackwater River here is tidal all the way to the boat ramp.) The banks are lined with Red Mangroves. Motors are permitted; we saw no "no wake" signs. We also saw no other boats except a couple of kayakers at the ramp. We peeled off into Gator Creek and then up Fish Hawk Creek and out into the Islands. We camped on Hog Key, which has been our favorite for many years because, at least previously, it had long mudflats and shallows surrounding it and motor boats did not come close. Not anymore. Which me to the first notable aspect worth highlighting: the devastation wreaked by Hurricane Irma.

We had actually noticed the damage on Blackwater River, but somehow it was more impressive out on the Islands. Scientific reports out of Miami stated that 40% of the mangroves were killed in the storm which swept right through the Ten Thousands Islands. From our viewpoint on the water, it looked like a much higher percentage were destroyed. Mile after mile of dead mangroves, poised like bony demons over the water. For those of you not familiar with the subtropics, mangroves perform two critical functions; shoreline stabilization and as a nursery for all the saltwater fish, shrimp, and other critters living in the salt water. The tropical and subtropical mangroves form a band around the entire earth.

Hog Key was almost unrecognizable. No more mud flats, so motorized fishing boats passed regularly in front of our camp. The sentinel mangrove and it's small point of land were totally gone. The forest of sea grapes was gone. Not just 'down' - gone; as if it never existed. Many of the remaining trees had been uprooted and blown down. The narrow but feisty channel between Hog Island and the mangrove swamp to the west was gone, entirely filled in. The large flat sandbank on the lee side of the island, popular with groups of kayakers for picnics and day gatherings, was still there, but....the former sand bank was entirely covered with a dense pasture of knee high grasses.

In ecological systems, change is not all bad. It is, in fact, normal and we saw evidence of this as well. On some mangrove flats, thousands of newly sprouted mangrove seedlings had sprung up under their dead parental stock. Mangroves are used to being battered, and some gnarly old trees were pushing out impossible new growth. Opening up the canopy on Hog Island changed the composition of the plant and animal life on the island. There were many more songbirds; mockingbirds, song sparrows, red-bellied woodpeckers and others I did not recognize. I found 12 new-to-the-island species of understory plants; scorpion tail, moon vine, morning glories and many I was not acquainted with. Strangest of all, perhaps, was the presence of large, fully mature Gumbo Limbos. Also known as the Tourist Tree (because its bark is orange and peeling), it is one of my favorite trees because of its nifty name, graceful shape and colorful bark. Gulf side of the island had a major log jam of downed gumbo limbos and, strikingly, many still upright. Though stripped of leaves and branches, they were beginning to leaf out again. Where did they come from, we wondered? The upright trees still had some soil and seemed to have been dumped in place at the edge of the island. Perhaps they were picked up by a tornado and dropped down.

Another effect of the storm is to effectively eliminate shade. What trees that are left have been stripped bare, leaving only little puddles of shade that move throughout the day. We used to hang hammocks in the shade and laze about comfortably even in midday sun. We still hung the hammocks. Tarps offered some protection from the blazing sun, but also cut down on the cooling breeze. Perfect conditions for heat illness and what amazed me is how fast it happened.

We arrived on Saturday morning and Sunday morning we went out fishing early, around 7 am. The sky was sapphire. The clouds were pearly. We floated bait over beds of silky sea grass. Brad caught several salt catfish - fun on the line, nasty getting off the line. I had one solid strike and that was it. But such a beautiful morning, how could one complain.? We saw dolphins and rays, ospreys and cormorants. And one winter loon. As the sun rose, a flotilla of candy colored kayaks went by, each day tripper talking louder than the next. We greeted them pleasantly and went in to the island. I had brought about a quart of powerade on our little fishing jaunt; the bottles were long empty. Got back to camp and drank more. I was hot. I was very hot. I sat up on a naked branch in a puddle of shade and tried to catch my breath. Inside, I am not happy. I feel terrible. But, I am not going to wimp out on this. I do not like whiners, especially if it's me. Finally, I asked Brad how he was feeling. He said he was hot, but he was enjoying the trip. I sat in silence. Was I really going to wimp out? If he can take it, I can take it too, I said to myself as I dove for the hammock under the tarp. A few minutes lying in the shade and I'll be fine. Well, I wasn't fine. I got hotter and hotter. I started stripping off clothes. Each piece of cloth touching me felt like fire. I wanted to jump in the water, but was unsure if salt water would make the problem worse. I asked Brad to bring me some water and I drank and drank. No improvement. I poured the water over me and asked for more. I began to feel feverish. By this time, Brad realized something was going on and having been trained as a first responder, he took over my care. I got a kerchiefs soaked with air temperature water and placed one over my face. I poured water over my hair and stuffed wet fabric under my armpits and between my legs. We replaced these as they got warm. He sat next to me on a camp chair and was perfectly calm. Brad estimates it took 45 minutes to an hour of cool compresses before the "fever" broke. After that I was hot, but not feverish, graduated to cold water from the ice chest and eventually felt more or less normal again.

Once I recovered, my thoughts ran to preventing future episodes. Although I had only experienced "only" heat exhaustion and not heat stroke, I was clearly on my way with a rising internal temperature. The experience was unpleasant and not worth repeating. I had hydrated plenty that morning, but Brad pointed out I had not drunk much the day before. With very warm temperatures (mid-90s) and a steady sea breeze, you never sweat. So there is no way to "notice" that you aren't sweating anymore (one of the signs of heat illness.) With no deep shade, there was no refuge from the heat of the sun and the radiant heat moved right through the tarps. The speed at which the heat problems developed was very fast. I think it was less than 15 minutes before realizing I was hot, and then too way too hot.

Since then, I have referred to my medical bible Medicine for Mountaineering. From this resource, I learned that the average skin temperature is 95 F. So if the air temp is 95 or over, there is no cooling via radiation. It was quite likely mid-90s or higher that day. When the humidity is high, there is also impaired cooling via evaporation. Humidity was probably high. In retrospect, I was also taking two medications that can increase risk of heat illness; an anticholinergic and a diruretic. The treatment for heat illness is the application of cool cloths and getting out of the sun. Medicine for Mountaineering also notes that heat stroke is one of the few medical emergencies in which a delay of a few minutes may "significantly alter the outcome." Heat stroke, the most severe form of heat illness can be fatal or survivors may have permanent disabilities.

We decided to cut the trip short and return home. Although I was "normal" again, the experience was exhausting and my body was totally worn out. We picked up and went in with the tide the next morning.

Erica
 

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I can't fathom an April trip in the 10000 islands. I was hot enough on Hog Key ( farther south) which I got confused about in your TR( How did Erica get there so fast from Collier Seminole?)
There were a lot more beaches than before Irma and sure enough a lot less shade. Our beach umbrella was our savior ( In March).
I think you made a wise decision..
 
With no deep shade, there was no refuge from the heat of the sun and the radiant heat moved right through the tarps.

Maybe one of these tarps set reflective side up would help:

https://www.amazon.com/YUEDGE-Portable-Waterproof-Camping-Sunshade/dp/B01ISTXD1W

I use a Yuedge tarp reflective side up over the cap of the tripping truck and it helps quite a bit, much like desert hikers carrying reflective umbrellas.

https://www.gossamergear.com/products/liteflex-hiking-chrome-umbrella
 
Part of the dilemna is to find natural shade in the 10,000 islands requires you to have a robust mangrove in the open.. Since Irma that does not seem to happen. Why in the open? ( the biting things will get you back out of any breeze so campers always go for the best possible ventilation.. This usually makes tarps impractical

We have used an 8 foot diameter beach umbrella that screws into the sand with an adjustable hinge to tilt it for sun blockage. Those hiking umbrellas are too small.. But I found this which might be my next umbrella

https://www.beachstore.com/Beach-Pr.../9-Extreme-Shade-Umbrella-w-Window-and-Anchor
 
Erica - Glad to hear you recovered and were able to make it back home without further issues. We were in the 10,000 Islands back in March and saw the lack of shade on the islands we camped on and/or paddled by. I'm so happy I was there when I was as I'm not a "heat oriented" person. Give me the cold any day versus the heat. Happy to know that you were aware enough of your condition, and that you had a medically oriented partner with you, that this all worked out to the good.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper
 
Part of the dilemna is to find natural shade in the 10,000 islands requires you to have a robust mangrove in the open.. Since Irma that does not seem to happen. Why in the open? ( the biting things will get you back out of any breeze so campers always go for the best possible ventilation.. This usually makes tarps impractical

I am familiar, made worse when the bugs are bad; retreating to a screen house with the no-see-um netting blocking the breeze presents a Hobsons Choice; bake in the no-breeze screen house or get eaten outside less sweatily.



We have used an 8 foot diameter beach umbrella that screws into the sand with an adjustable hinge to tilt it for sun blockage. Those hiking umbrellas are too small.. But I found this which might be my next umbrella

Even the large golf umbrella that fits on my wind chair provides scant enough coverage. The high-rise back extension on those chairs does help a lot with sun exposure, and between that head-high backrest and an overhead umbrella attached I can usually find enough personal shade to survive.

P5290831 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Sunbrella design and technology seems to have come a long way, with vent windows and odd shapes. I do like the idea that it is up to 15 degrees cooler underneath, even with a little desert hikers umbrella.

I do not need a giant sunbrella just for me, but the golf umbrella that attaches to the wind (cold, sun) chair could stand an upgrade.

Thanks, I may have found my next wind chair sunbrella; no more expensive than a decent quality golf umbrella, and I could still use it on trips to the thunderbox in the rain.

https://www.beachstore.com/Beach-Products/Clamp-On-Umbrellas/Clamp-On-My-Shade-Umbrella
 
We have been out on Hog Key in all kinds of weather, including in August, and including some sub-tropical storms. Even in terrible August, hang a hammock under the canopy and it is quite pleasant. Due to the hurricane, the severe lack of canopy created a dangerous environment. That is why it is important to pay attention to the first part, first.

Part of the reason I posted this is because some of the suggestions made are things that should work, but under these conditions, did not.

Shade provided by a canopy of trees/shrubs, etc creates a temperature drop of maybe 10 degrees. It feels substantially cooler. With the canopy stripped away, the tarps only stopped the radiant energy, but did not drop the ambient temperature. I have never seen that happen before. I doubt any umbrella would have helped either.

I was also astounded at how fast it went from hot to heat illness. I had no idea it could happen so quickly and thought others might want to be aware of that.

Finally, I have to admit that I am getting older and as I read, the body does not have the resiliency in temperature control as we get older. Plus the medications (I never used to take meds!). So I need to be more attentive to the changes in me, as well as changes in the environment.

Erica
 
Just to show how little shade there is out there now.
 

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Overheating is a very real problem when on the water even up north here. It was 105 here last weekend. After some gruelling trips the past few years I have given up tripping in July / Aug as it is just too hot for me. The bad heart and diuretic does not help.I now limit my trips to more reasonable temps in the spring and fall.

I work on the airfield here and the temp on the ramp can be quite high, and with safety clothing it is brutal. We are quite used to watching for signs of heat stress. In the bush though, even if you notice, it may be difficult to do anything about it. Especially solo. This happened to karin a few years back and I was able to look after her.

Interesting about the 95 skin temp...very useful info. I often wear a loose, wet shirt when it is super hot to cool my skin. It works pretty well. So does staying home though...lol.

Glad it worked out for you.

Christine
 
About overheating. Watch kids carefully, especially youngsters. They have a tendency to become distracted and not hydrate adequately. As in drinking before they are thirsty. We were constantly nagging our boys in the bow to drink water when it was hot and sunny.

And watch companions of any age who are not used to heat exposure and strenuous effort.

We had a friends wife collapse on a shady swamp run. Shady yes, but it was hot as blazes, with high humidity, no cooling breeze and the usual strainer passage effort. She was accustomed to an air conditioned life, not acclimated to those temps, humidity and labors, did not recognize what was happening to her, and said nothing until she suddenly slumped over in the bow.

We got her back, but it took a while. Would have been a whole lot easier to have said Hey, Nattie, gulp down some water why doncha.
 
Here are some pictures of Hog Key before the storm, from 2011. As you can see, much more green, much more shade. Microclimate was the word I was looking for...the dense canopy creates a cooler microclimate that you don't get with just tarps or umbrellas. Erica
 

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Erica, what do you do with the shark once you catch it? Still spooks me when I accidentally do a paddle plant on one and it spooks.

I've had dehydration in Wabakimi.. Felt awful and got cramps in the legs.. Took many liters of water to correct. Sun reflecting off rocks in fire areas is brutal. The onset of illness is insidious..
One of the hallmarks of heat stroke is the cessation of sweating but in Florida when sweat never evaporates, how do you tell? And in Wabakimi when you sweat and the air is so dry and it evaporates in seconds, how do you tell the difference?
 
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https://www.beachstore.com/Beach-Products/Clamp-On-Umbrellas/Clamp-On-My-Shade-Umbrella

How does this work Mike if you have no top bar on your chair? We have Helinoxi...es....

That Sunbrella may require some adaptation. The golf umbrella did.

Our older folding camp chairs have no bar across the top of the backrest, just an upright pole on either side holding the backrest fabric.

Just take out a couple of stitches along the top of that fabric sleeve to reveal the pole and pull out the little plastic plug from that hollow aluminum tube, leaving it open and accessible.

I cut the foam handle off the golf umbrella. The unadorned shaft of the golf umbrella is too skinny to fit snugly in that backrest pole, so I sleeved the bottom few inches where the shaft with some Tygon tubing for a perfect fit.

Portable sunshade that sets up anywhere in seconds.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/CooperMcCrea/media/bWVkaWFJZDoxODA5ODU0MTM=/?ref=1

To prevent it from blowing away I pop riveted on a pad eye to the umbrella shaft above the tygon tubing and larks headed a bungee ball through that nylon inchworm. That pad eye keeps the umbrella shaft from sliding down too down into the chair backrest pole, and the bungee ball wraps around the chair leg, preventing the umbrella from achieving Mary Poppins liftoff in the breeze.

I put a pop rivet through the backrest fabric into pole. just below the inserted tubing sleeve, to hold the backrest up in place with the top of the sleeve open.

BTW, one downside of that personal shade chair umbrella; if it is at all breezy the chair and attached open umbrella will blow over the instant your arse leaves the seat. Just remember to close the umbrella when you get up.

We used the same system on the mini-bimini on the motor canoe, although we needed an extension for height in that application.

P1100400 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I will figure out some adaptation to try that reflective sunbrella on the new Alps chairs. The elongated shape of that sun shade should allow me to slowly pivot it from side to side as the angle of the sun changes, rather than reposition my chair a few degrees every hour.
 
I doubt any umbrella would have helped either.
Microclimate was the word I was looking for...the dense canopy creates a cooler microclimate that you don't get with just tarps or umbrellas.

While I would prefer the cool micro-climate of a tree canopy, now that the occasional beachfront mangrove is gone I would not enjoy retreating back into the understory only to endure the lack of breeze and abundance of biting nasties, so I will be out on near the water and need some solution that works there.

The enemy of the good being the perfect I will take what I can get, which is fast, portable shade, out in the less buggy, breezier open.

This sun reflective UVA/UVB blocking stuff is new to me, but this reflective tarp over the bed of the tripping truck dropped the temperature, even inside that closed coffin, by at least 10 degrees.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user...IDIwMTYvUDQyNzM1OTdfenBzeGJ4c2dham4uanBn/?ref=

Our beach umbrella was our savior

Having some personal shade, even using the non-reflective, somewhat translucent and sure as heck not UVA/UVB protective golf umbrella, has been a satisfactory refuge for me on sunny coastal trips. And on desert trips:

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user...IFRyaXAvUDQyOTE5MzVfenBzZWQyZmQ5OGUuanBn/?ref=

No trees, but look at that circle of delightful shade. If that were the outback I would be sharing it with sweaty kangaroos.

One benefit of an umbrella-style solution is that does not block the cooling breeze the way a tarp can.

Plus, no poles, no guy lines, no stakes and no working-in-the-hot-sun effort to set one up.
 
Mike I require another adaptation for chair..
Here is my chair.. You cant meddle with the end of the pole as its fits in a sleeve. Pulling out stitches makes the entire chair unusable.
I need a side clamp. But no worry I still am leaning more in favor of the screw it into the sand for a foot principle. When I get up to attend to duties elsewhere I would rather not chase my chair to Mexico.. Usually a breeze comes up at the worst time.
No he is not ill or in prayer. Removing hundreds of conch shells to make a smooth tent pad.

I agree with Erica.. shade from a mangrove is better but there was NO breeze back there. This was on Turkey Key in the Everglades
 

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Mike, in my effort to convey just how differently hot this situation was environmentally, I am sorry if I conveyed that I disapproved of shades or tarps, especially anything that you have come up with. And perhaps others do understand just how hot it was. It took me by surprise.
 
Erica neither Mike nor Me will be in the Everglades in April. I totally believe you.. It was quite eye opening how badly some islands were affected and others not so much. Jewel was virtually denuded. We were there for one hot night early March. Pavilion nearby seemed relatively less damaged.
 
dang, heat stroke is no joke, glad you're OK.

YC, small sharks are pretty tasty if you clean them right (bleed out and skin) then ice the fillets asap. Soaking fillets in milk helps with the ammonia too (they pee through their skin), but that's only practical when you take them home. Skin them right away tho and the ammonia isn't a problem. Never ate a nurse shark (the one in Erica's pic), but small black tips in the 4'-6' size are plentiful and good to eat. Over the years we rarely ate the sharks though, too many better eating fish around like snook, mangrove snapper, seatrout and redfish, all caught in the same places down there.

Erica, maybe you've just been lucky on the times you've been there, but Hog Key is a very popular place for powered skiffs and has been for many many years. This group has one and sometimes two events a year since 2005 or so on Hog Key. See video for typical shenanigans. Some, including me, also camp on Whitehorse to the west to be able to get to sleep earlier than the party animals. This site is popular because its outside the park which avoids the onerous ENP camping rules but close enough to run into the park and fish, then return to BBQ, drink and have fires above the high tide line. Its also a quick run to Goodland or Port of the Islands for ice and supplies. As you can see in the pic the boats don't come in on the mud flat to the west, they come in from N/NE through that little channel where its deep. My friend and I happened to feel like paddling on this particular trip (Feb 2011) and left our skiffs at home. We came in from the ENP Hdq in Everglades City, left after 8:30pm or so and bucked the tide for nearly 6 hours and arrived about 2am. Beautiful night paddle but not planning for the tides ended up being quite the workout. My son paddled with me in the 16' mohawk, swore he'd never paddle again after that trip, lol.

https://vimeo.com/279377051

I haven't been down there since Irma and almost glad I haven't since its always depressing seeing the damage. Went through the same thing with Andrew and other storms through the years tho, the everglades always bounces back. The blow downs are great fish habitat too.

Didn't do it this year but I usually camp and fish down there a few times through spring and summer because the fishing is very good and there's never any competition for the camp sites or chickee's. Its hot as heck for sure and of course buggy, but the fishing can be worth it as long as you survive the lightening storms. I always have tarps and screen house type tents on these high heat trips. The 13' dome screen house is great, but doesn't have noseeum mesh. Breeze gets through better, but so do the invisible flying teeth.
 

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The parties on Hog Key have never been there when we have. They sit on the sand bank on the northwest side of the island and there is a cut there accessible by high tide. The other three sides of the island are mud flats (used to be) and casual boaters don't come into the cut. BUT that sand plateau can be underwater at a high high tide or during a storm. Should never camp there. We have seen it. We tend to go to the islands on off season due to the amount of boat traffic. Yes, we know it is outside the park, which is what makes it attractive, no reservations necessary. BTW, the cut between Hog Key and the mangrove island to the west-ish is gone. Filled in. That sand plateau is completely covered with tall grasses. No longer inviting for parties.
 
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