Seat Frame Mortise

[LanceR]

Jim, do you tie off the nylon similar to cane and am I correct in assuming that the first varnish coat needs to be heavy enough to fully wet out the nylon? And do you use spar varnish or what?

I have three seats to make and have pretty much settled on getting a mortise chisel out and just chopping traditional mortises. I haven't done any steam bending in years but think I'll make a small (4'?) extendable steam box and steam generator from a 120 volt water heater element as a winter project this year to bend some seat frames and other project parts.

Thanks


Lance

 

[Jim Dodd]

Lance a link.

https://www.canoetripping.net/forum...ussions/diy/65439-diy-solo-portage-yoke-ideas

 

[Jim Dodd]

Some pics of the solo back rest/portage yoke.
Here I'm using it on Vader, during BWCA trip last fall.
Other than a little heavy, it worked great.

I make all my seats the same, so this yoke fits all my solos.

 

[Churchwarden]

How much deflection is there from plane down to the bottom of the curve of the seat? Does it go down an inch? 1.5" what is the bow?

 

[Jim Dodd]

How much deflection is there from plane down to the bottom of the curve of the seat? Does it go down an inch? 1.5" what is the bow?

Yes, from top edge of the frame a 1" drop at the center.

 

[Mihun09]

This is pulled from the Swift Canoe website, 2020 parts list with prices. Swift is where i picked up 8" seat hanger bolts a couple years ago.

Otherwise I order seat bolts from a company in the US that sells longer 10/24 and 10/32 carriage bolts in silicon bronze up to 6".

 

[Churchwarden]

Yes, from top edge of the frame a 1" drop at the center.

You said they are 5/4 wide. It looks like you started out fairly high, but are now making them a little thinner. What size rails are you using now? 5/4 x 1 1/2? 1 1/4??

 

[Mihun09]

Updated to include address for the fastener company I use...

TNfastners.com - Bronze Fasteners, Screws Bolts, Stainless Steel Iconel Monel (tnfasteners.com)

 

[Jim Dodd]

You said they are 5/4 wide. It looks like you started out fairly high, but are now making them a little thinner. What size rails are you using now? 5/4 x 1 1/2? 1 1/4??

Just measured the last batch of seat frames I made up. I make them all the same, so my portage yokes will work on them. I have slightly altered dimensions of the frames, from time to time, depending on the thickness of the Ash planks I get.

This last bunch are 1 3/16" x 1 3/16". The mortise is cut 3/16" deep. Some have been a little thinner, again due to the planks I get.

 

[Churchwarden]

Thank you very much. I have a very pretty piece of cherry i would like to use. It is already 1 1/4" wide by 3 1/2" wide. If i had a 1" dip that would leave me 1 1/4 for each rail.. or more accurately 1 3/16" after saw kerf. This is my first attempt at making seats and dont want to goof it right from beginning.

 

[Cruiser]

Church if you aren't already planning on it, you may want to consider laminating those seats, they will be strongerand less likely to break.

Brian

 

[Churchwarden]

Church if you aren't already planning on it, you may want to consider laminating those seats, they will be strongerand less likely to break.

Brian

Now this has got me wondering... i asked this question in another post - are countoured seats made with a wider piece and cut down, steam bent, or bent laminations?.. and i was directed here to this post. Now i am wondering which to go with. The one piece would make the most out of a nice piece of cherry, but would have to be thicker to get the strength needed. And thicker does also mean heavier. While the weight would be negligible, every little bit does count...but it would be easier and quicker to make. ... i am absolutely and completely open to suggestions and trying to learn from the triumphs and failures of others.

Also,.it is hilarious that you called me "church"... that happens to be my nickname to most of my friends

 

[RickR]

Cutting out the contoured rail from solid stock is perfectly fine If wood quality and grain orientation is suitable. Straight, tight grain, knot free and quarter sawn is best. Rift sawn can work. You need to avoid grain runout through the contour. These qualities are not always easy to find, and why I suspect, many choose to laminate.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I check the grain on the planks I cut my rails from.. I prefer Flat or Slash cut. planks.

So when you look down on an installed seat, you see the growth rings.

 

[Cruiser]

Now this has got me wondering... i asked this question in another post - are countoured seats made with a wider piece and cut down, steam bent, or bent laminations?.. and i was directed here to this post. Now i am wondering which to go with. The one piece would make the most out of a nice piece of cherry, but would have to be thicker to get the strength needed. And thicker does also mean heavier. While the weight would be negligible, every little bit does count...but it would be easier and quicker to make. ... i am absolutely and completely open to suggestions and trying to learn from the triumphs and failures of others.

Also,.it is hilarious that you called me "church"... that happens to be my nickname to most of my friends

Here is a link to my last build, about halfway down the page seat construction starts ... similar to the way Jim does his, you mat find something useful there

https://www.canoetripping.net/forum...105054-light-weight-solo-tripper-build/page11

Brian

 

[Churchwarden]

This group is the absolute best. Thanks

 

[Churchwarden]

Does anyone ever use Mahogany? I have a pile of 1 1/4"..
it is the (currently unavailable) south american kind, from Honduras. I was thinking of using it to make seat rails....
i also have a ton of poplar... sooo much poplar. 8/4.

 

[Cruiser]

Mahogany works fine (better than fine actually), just look up the strength stuff in the Wood Database and adjust sizing accordingly (if you haven't used Google" WoodDatabase Mahogany")

Brian

 

[Kliff]

I found this source for nylon flat webbing, called snowshoe lacing. I've never used it, but I'm nearly ready to weave my seats for my first build. Only question I have is, buy it by the yard, or go in for a whole spool? I'm already planning my next build, so might just as well get a whole spool.

I'm also thinking thin the varnish about 20% to help with saturation, then follow with a second coat at full strength.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I found this source for nylon flat webbing, called snowshoe lacing. I've never used it, but I'm nearly ready to weave my seats for my first build. Only question I have is, buy it by the yard, or go in for a whole spool? I'm already planning my next build, so might just as well get a whole spool.

I'm also thinking thin the varnish about 20% to help with saturation, then follow with a second coat at full strength.

Yes, Thin that first coat. I used to just use straight varnish, and it was tough getting complete saturation.

I bought a whole roll, of 1/2",
years back. I've made a bunch of seats, maybe 40, and I still have plenty !

Measure your seat, to figure how much your will need. Mine take about 50 ft.

I will measure my hole spacing tomorrow, but believe 3/4"

One very important note !!! The nylon shrinks when the varnish dries ! String them loose !

Jim