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Roy's Mystery Wood Canoe

maybe next time I will go straight to the wet out coat after filling with something other than thickened epoxy. All the additional epoxy applications equal much more sanding. I would like to reduce that in the future.

Maybe I misunderstood you in my previous reply. Perhaps you were referring to extra sanding because of the seal coat before applying the fiberglass. Even this shouldn't take much sanding (or no sanding if you apply your 'glass soon enough). Ten minutes or less with a 120 grit pad on a ROS should do the whole hull after a seal coat.

Alan
 
Ok. Looks like the overall consensus is to skip the seal coat. I have a few gaps that I'm going to fill with thicken epoxy because I think it'll be more structural then wood putty. I will be putting tape around these areas to keep the sanding and clean up easier. I may use some wood putty to fill minor things. I don't mind the sanding, but like Alan Gage said about the harder wood near the softer wood is a bit tricky. I've learned long ago to fight the temptation to use the edge of the sander to clean up a recessed spot. Got to hold sander flat and let it do it's work to flatten surrounding surface otherwise you'll cut a valley. I will be block sanding surface before glassing. I just ordered the materials, and hope to be glassing first week of June.

You all sure been a world of help.
Thank you
Roy
 
Getting ready to epoxy some spots, and I was wondering. The pumps that I purchased with the resin and hardner, when I put the pumps in do I just leave them in the jug, or do I remove them and screw the original caps back on when I'm done? Hoping to glass the hull this coming Thursday.
 

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Ya sure ain't going to reuse these plastic mixing cups. I mixed up enough with wood flour and cabosil just to fill some gaps and see what this stuff is like to work with. It's pushing 80 degrees and 70 percent humidity. The odor from the epoxy isn't very bad. I don't expect it'll be an issue with proper ventilation.

Thanks for the advice.
Roy
 
Ya sure ain't going to reuse these plastic mixing cups. I mixed up enough with wood flour and cabosil just to fill some gaps and see what this stuff is like to work with. It's pushing 80 degrees and 70 percent humidity. The odor from the epoxy isn't very bad. I don't expect it'll be an issue with proper ventilation.

Thanks for the advice.
Roy

Which epoxy system did you decide to use?
 
Using the US Composites epoxy. Dampened the hull yesterday to raise the wood grains. Doing the finish sanding. Canoe craft says the orbital sander with 120 grit is the preferred way to go, unless I misinterpreted it, but I prefer block sanding with the grains. I'm still planning on glassing Thursday. I've got a window air conditioner that I will put in the basement window in the event that the heat and humidity is bad. I'm looking forward to this.
 

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Good move to hand sand ! a ROS will leave swirl marks even with finer grit !

Hull looks cool !

If you can lower the temp, just after wetting out the cloth, it will greatly reduce outgassing !

Good Luck !

Jim
 
Thank you Jim. Got my work area ready. Except I'm going to get another florescent light to hang on other end of basement. The more light the better. I guess I better go get some epoxy thinner to wipe the hull before laying the cloth.

I have question, if I put the football patch on top of the full cloth, and wet out together at once, will it stay put or is it going to be an issue with shifting off one way or another?
 
Not sure how quick I can lower temperature in work area with this little air conditioner? We were going to get rid of this air conditioner, but alas I have a use for it. How long you reckon the out gassing usually last?
 

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You'll be fine wetting out both layers at once. It might move as you wet it out, especially if rolling, but it won't be slippery. It won't move on its own and it should be easy to straighten out any wrinkles.

Don't worry if the AC isn't up to the task. It won't make or break the glassing and any help is better than no help.

Good luck!

Alan
 
I just finished mine a few days ago, foot ball on the bottom, can't see anything. I will be sanding it tonight, all will be well.
 
Here's a diagram that shows why you you should put the extra layer on top. Putting the extra layer, under main layer leads to thinning the main layer.

The top diagram is correct. If you go the other way ? Add plenty of resin, and be careful while sanding that area .

IMG_1696_zpsuruxzrov.jpg



If you have trouble with outgassing, You may have trouble dealing with the bubbles under two layers of cloth.

I prefer to wet out the main layer, let it cure past tacky, then apply extra layer. If this is your first time especially.

Good Luck !

Jim
 
Not sure how quick I can lower temperature in work area with this little air conditioner? We were going to get rid of this air conditioner, but alas I have a use for it. How long you reckon the out gassing usually last?

After you have the cloth wetted, Don't walk away ! Stay with it, for a couple of hours, at least.

Epoxy is not like paint ! It cures, creating the heat that causes the outgassing.

Again good luck !

Jim
 
Hit mid 80's today, summer is here. Thanks for encouragement you all. Looks like there is a long debate going on about the location of the football patch. I think I know where I'm going to put it, and I think I will not mention. Ha. Maybe one of these days I can discuss this with some experience. Thank you all again.
 
It's your canoe ! You can build it the way You want !

Though there are differing opinions, You are the builder.

Good luck Tell us how the glassing goes !

Jim
 
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