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Royalex skid plate removal and reapplication

Glenn MacGrady

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Looks like good progress, HMST.

I had intended to apply the G-Flex with a syringe as suggested, but ended up opting to deposit the epoxy into the cavity and spread it out with a toothpick.

Too late for you now, but for any future syringe users, you can increase syringe flow by snipping off the end so the opening is larger. Of course, you still have to spread it with something such as a popsicle stick.

I opted to over-fill a little with the intention to sand it back

If you are careful not to cut too deep, I've found humps of G/Flex can be quickly shaved off by a sharp knife before getting to sanding.
 
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If you are careful not to cut too deep, I've found humps of G/Flex can be quickly shaved off by a sharp knife before getting to sanding.
NOTED!

That should save a significant amount of time!

I think I'll save the syringe for smaller repairs that require more precision. For this job I didn't have any issues keeping the where it was needed. Definitely a tool/technique I'm excited to employ!
 
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When finishing I opted to over-fill a little with the intention to sand it back rather than risk needing an additional layer which would slow progress significantly by adding another work day.

Today, the plan is to prep for the glass layer tonight and hopefully get it applied.
At this stage I am weighing a couple of options. Which layers should the graphite additive be used on? The outermost for sure, but is it worth using on layers further inward as well? I believe once the first fiberglass layer is semi-set (I think "green" is the technical term) additional layers (the Dynel outer layer) can be applied without compromising integrity. If this is appropriate, it would save an additional work day.

From left to right the attached photos show the afflicted area, post clean-up, and filled with thickened G-Flex.
Good work,

I would be inclined to take a coarse tooth steel rasp to remove and shape your excess epoxy, that will be quicker than hand sanding.

I have applied 2 cloth layers in one epoxy session, but I had everything laid out ahead for layer 2 - fabric, pre-measured, yet unmixed, epoxy amounts, carbon, etc. I think my working time for layer 2 was less as the clock started when I mixed epoxy for layer one. When happy with layer one I could look at my watch to see if I had enough time for layer 2. If not, return the unmixed epoxy to their containers.

Carbon question - how much of the bottom do you want to look black, and what shape? My tastes lean to reserving carbon for dynel plate(s).
 
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I have applied additional layers of thickened epoxy to fill voids, or additional layers of fabric as soon as the previous application has cured to the point of being solid enough to not sag or run. If you need to shape the epoxy, you will need to allow it to cure a bit longer although not necessarily completely.
If you are applying a layer of Dynel fabric with epoxy/graphite powder mix over a layer of fiberglass, there is no need or reason to add graphite powder to the epoxy you use to wet out or bond the fiberglass.
 
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Looks like the past post was in 2012. Any update on how this project ended? Was it a success? Have the repairs lasted? Any suggestions where you would have done something different?
 

Glenn MacGrady

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Looks like the past post was in 2012. Any update on how this project ended? Was it a success? Have the repairs lasted? Any suggestions where you would have done something different?

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