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Repairing, cleaning and waterproofing a Nesmuk Woods canoe pack video

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Good video, Robin. I have not used wax to treat a canvas pack, I have sprayed them down with Thompson Water Seal or Canvak so long ago, that I don’t remember which. Whatever it was, it just made the packs water resistant, not water proof. Rain would be bead up, then run off, but packs sitting in bilge water would soak through. I have a couple of real old Duluth Packs, #3’s that need some referbishing. Once I get them cleaned up will try the half & half wax treatment. Making a frame to slip inside will be a scrap piece of plywood cut to the proper size. I have always liked the envelope style of the #2 & #3’s.
Thanks for posting.
 
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......I have a couple of real old Duluth Packs, #3’s that need some referbishing. Once I get them cleaned up will try the half & half wax treatment. Making a frame to slip inside will be a scrap piece of plywood cut to the proper size. I have always liked the envelope style of the #2 & #3’s.
Thanks for posting.
I'm not sure if I'll do my Duluth Packs, but I have a few Woods Packs I'd like to try waxing. I like his idea of making an interior frame to help keep the pack tight while working on it is a good idea.
I really like my old #3 Duluth Pack, and the envelope style.
 
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Ya, I kinda thought the guy was a little bit less safety conscious than I would be. Double boiler and outside for certain. A lot of youtuber’s are pretty much newbie’s try to paint themselves as experts (ex is a has been & spurt is a drip under pressure). I don’t think I would use a heat gun near to any leather parts either.
I will do a little more research, before I’d go all in on his method. All that wax might be adding a little to much body to the canvas to be comfortable. Might just use a tin of the Barbour fabric wax or Nikwax cotton product stuff that I have used on cotton tents. Leather needs a leather product and a gentle warming in.
Hoping others with more grizzled heads will chime in.
 
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That is a nice Woods Nessmuck he has there. I've never tried waxing cotton before so I have questions without answers along with some assumptions.
1) Why mix (p) paraffin and (b) bee's wax? Given p is cheaper and more plentiful maybe p stretches the cost? Or maybe because b being organic unlike p being a petrochemical, perhaps b degrades quicker so p extends the life of the wax treatment?
2) Is there an advantage to treating the outside of the pack rather than the inside instead? The fabric looks almost saturated so the difference may be negligible.
3) How does the wax treatment lose H2O repellency, through abrasion, heat, other, all of the above?
4) Does the wax treatment do more than waterproof? Does it add some level of abrasion resistance? Repel dirt or attract it? Neither?
I am not grizzled enough to have these answers.

ps I've tried some spray on water proofing products without success. I may give Nikwax a try. I wouldn't mind adding some water repellency to some clothing.
 
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That is a nice Woods Nessmuck he has there. I've never tried waxing cotton before so I have questions without answers along with some assumptions.
1) Why mix (p) paraffin and (b) bee's wax? Given p is cheaper and more plentiful maybe p stretches the cost? Or maybe because b being organic unlike p being a petrochemical, perhaps b degrades quicker so p extends the life of the wax treatment?
2) Is there an advantage to treating the outside of the pack rather than the inside instead? The fabric looks almost saturated so the difference may be negligible.
3) How does the wax treatment lose H2O repellency, through abrasion, heat, other, all of the above?
4) Does the wax treatment do more than waterproof? Does it add some level of abrasion resistance? Repel dirt or attract it? Neither?
I am not grizzled enough to have these answers.

ps I've tried some spray on water proofing products without success. I may give Nikwax a try. I wouldn't mind adding some water repellency to some clothing.
I'll try to supply some answers to your questions Oddssey, but these are mostly guesses and take them for what it's worth.
1. I think they mix the paraffin and beeswax to get the most economical waterproof formula. I have no experience here, although I have priced beeswax and noticed it's not cheap.
2. I've never had a treated pack, never even seen one up close but I’m guessing that by treating the outside of the pack there is no weight gain when the canvas is exposed to water. Plus, from what I see on bushcraft forums, the waxed canvas “look” is hip.
3.I think waxed canvas needs to be “touched up” when needed,
4. I think the waxed treatment is only good for waterproofing. I would assume it attracts dirt to some small degree, but like I said, I have no experience with waxed canvas so what do I know.

I still want to try waxing my Woods pack, it’s the one that holds my wood stove and wall tent. While I would like too, I wouldn’t trust a waxed canvas bag to keep my clothes, sleeping bag, or food dry on a canoe trip, I’d still use heavy plastic liners.
 
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My guess on the 50/50 blend would be, bee’s wax is softer, so would give a little more flex to the canvas fabric. It does smell nicer, but I doubt that play’s a role.
 
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I do my ""waxing" using Sno-Seal
snoseal.jpg
IMO it works just fine. I've used it on a couple canvas bags as well as leather items I've made. I have another bag standing by for more Sno-Seal to arrive. Use your hands and rub it into the material. Then take a heat gun to it.
 
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I have used a turpentine/beeswax mix to proof cotton. Seemed to work fine though the fabric certainly does stiffen in cold weather. Maybe not a bad thing as the stiff pack is easier to fill. I suspect that the wax could become sticky in really hot weather.
I wouldn’t trust the pack as waterproof though as the seams will inevitably leak.
Fjallraven make a wax bar for proofing their cotton blend clothing. Instructions on how to use here- https://www.fjallraven.com/us/en-us/customer-service/care-repair/g-1000
 
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I do my ""waxing" using Sno-Seal
View attachment 129594
IMO it works just fine. I've used it on a couple canvas bags as well as leather items I've made. I have another bag standing by for more Sno-Seal to arrive. Use your hands and rub it into the material. Then take a heat gun to it.

Good idea, I use it on my Bean/Sorel boots and leather on the bags, never thought to use it on canvas. Thanks
 
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