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No Country for Old Women

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Warren, Manitoba
Back after 5 days of our 9 day trip. 12 hours ago we broke camp and portaged and paddled the last 14km out, so tomorrow I will add the TR and photo's.
 
That's a shame. This old hag is contemplating a Sept solo of all things. Wondering what went wrong and did age really matter.
 
Our first trip of the year was to try to get into Queen Hughes Lake again, which we first tried several years ago and again 2 years ago. It is a lake off the beaten path which to us means the possibility of being mainly un-fished.

2 years ago we had to deal with the remnants of the 2012 Snowdown event, which was a heavy snowfall in the late Autumn which brought down many trees in the area. That trip we had a bow saw and cut out what we could on the 10 portages into Leaf Lake. None of the bigger lay-downs could be cut at that time and due to very low water we never made it past the first port above Leaf Lake.

Cue 2015.

One caveat for this trip was that when Christine said she was done, we would stop for the day. She is still not fully recovered from last year's heart attack and is having ongoing issues with blood pressure and fatigue and I am still suffering from rotator and tendonitis problems. We proved to be quite out of shape.

On the way up on the Friday, we stopped into Selkirk and hit the Canadian Tire and bought a new Poulan 33cc 14" chainsaw. Christine had an appointment that morning with our MP (Member of Parliament) in that town so that is why we were there in the first place.

The trip up after was uneventful but I did notice many large stands of birch trees that were not fully leafed out. As usual we stopped at Clarks Corners at Powerview for bathroom and snack needs and once again we were recognized as the ones that go canoeing up in Atikaki. We hadn't been in that store for almost a year so that was pretty cool.

All the rivers south of the Manigotagan were full of water which was a good sign. It was a hot and sunny day when we got to Wallace Lake. We have a rule to not be on Wallace if we can help it after noon since it kicks up in a big way, but today we had a south wind and were moving up the lee and only had to fight a bit passing deeper bays. It is about 10km to the first port and we made that in 2 hours and saw our first eagle near what we call, Eagle Rock.

We moved quickly down to port #6 noting the low water in the river. At that point is was about a foot lower than the normal water mark on the shore. We stopped to camp there, not a great tent spot, not flat, but a nice place where there is an abandoned canoe that has been there since we first went through the area in 2008. It has lost some of its colour and has further damage, but could be fixed and floated out if we could carry it's hundred pounds of fiberglassed weight.

Most of that afternoon and evening we had listened to thunder booming around us, mostly to the north and had watched the storms carefully. After having camp set up and I was journaling while Christine made dinner, a water bomber flew over camp heading NW and later a chopper thudded over heading south. I had checked the website for Manitoba Forest Fire's before leaving the house so I knew where the closest fire was, all the way up near Berens River, several hundred km's north of us, fire #49 for the season.

It was odd the lack of mosquito's until port 5. Prior to that was all black flies and deer flies but by camp the mosquito's became a force. There is more wetland down that far and the mozzies would become an issue the further we went.

While chilling in the tent I found the first tick on me. Christine is expert at removing them since they seem to like me. As we waited for sleep to come we decided to not use the new saw if we could avoid it and return it on the way home, since at that point we had not gassed or put oil in it. Sleep came easily that night after covering only 14km and 6 ports.



 
Day 2 , June 27th

We woke to an overcast/hazy day. We would find out later the haze was from smoke coming out of Saskatchewan and the NW Territories, not local fires. It was a good travel day weather wise and we had a few sprinkles as we made our way downstream. The next port, #7 on the Wanipigow was as we had left it two years prior, nobody had cleared the lay downs and we know many people use the route on the way to the Bloodvein. Time to break in the new saw. While I ported packs Christine cut out the wood. 14" saw, largest tree was 14".

We don't pack light and had the boat as full as is possible and it takes 5 trips for one person to portage the load for this trip. Now it is a nice trip free walk and one of the longest portages on the route. None of the rapids are run-able at these water levels though.

Another thunderstorm was building to the west as we moved downstream past 7 and we made an emergency tarp shelter at 8 to wait out the storm. Hoop would cry at the set up but it kept us and gear dry although the bulk of the storm kept south of us and we had hardly any rain. We packed up and moved on with more storms brewing around us, keeping an eye on the sky as we kept seeing ground lightning.

We could see and hear the choppers and water bombers flying north all morning.

The Broadleaf Junction port was the usual ugly with a lay down that had been there a while. We had remembered the port to be further inland from where it is now but could not re-establish the trail so just widened the existing port along the river edge.

The first portage up from the Junction was as it was 2 years ago, just not there. At this point in the river a fire had gone through in October 2010 and burned the west side, but had jumped the river at this very spot. Obviously they water bombed it to keep it spreading and knocked over quite a few trees in the process. We cut out 3/4's of it but the chain was getting dull so we saved it for later and waded the rapid.

Shortly after that I caught something out of the corner of my eye up in the edge of the burn which turned out to be a cow moose with calf. They had obviously been in the river and likely spooked by the saw noise. She was difficult to see in the trees and I didn't get the camera out but she watched as we moved slowly by then walked back into the bush and out of sight.

There were many ducks, some with ducklings and in protective mode. One in particular, had 13 ducklings and she squawked and led us away. One duckling was obviously the weakling as it lagged behind the brood. The ducklings were black and yellow striped. Mom would lead us away as the ducklings headed into the weeds and then fly back to the babies.

Just before getting out to the lower portion of Leaf Lake Christine rigged up her rod and in two casts had two pickerel. One went on the chain and later she added a second for dinner that night. In that short time of fishing she caught 4 pickerel of varying size. I didn't bother even rigging my rod until after camp was established later on.

We went up lake and picked up a nice tail wind which allowed Christine to rudder and not really need to paddle other than getting distance around points with shoals to a new camp spot in the narrows between the second and third sections of the lake. Christine had wanted to camp there for a number of years so we did this time. It is on a blunt point and is a nice site but turned out to be very buggy.

When out wandering I noticed a dark black spot on the far side of the bay, which moved and I said, "bear" and Christine says, "where". We watched it a bit before firing off a banger, although it wasn't really close to us. The bear flinched, then stopped and stared at us a few minutes before plodding off into the bush.

Obviously it has never been shot at since the banger had no effect, mind you, it was distant. My bearanoia kicked in full at this point but I made it through the night without being eaten which helped. In the two nights we stayed there the bear never bothered to come visit. I need to take a Melatonin each night to sleep out there which tends to make me a bit groggy in the mornings.

The mosquito's were out in force that night. Sitting inside is like being inside a bees nest with the noise from the mosquito's around the tent. It is that persistent all night, which makes for itchy mid night pee excursions.

We had a couple more eagle sightings during the day, more ducks, geese, turtles.

That evening brought more thunderstorms to the north and south, still skirting around us. We talked about how it had taken 2 days to get somewhere that had always only taken one day and it had kicked us hard just getting there. We are much limited now due to physical issues as to how far we can go in a day, mind you, we did cut 3 portages out which we wouldn't normally do but 15km with 4 ports had us licked.



















 
Day 3, June 28th

The plan was to carry on upriver but I thought it best we stay camped there and do a day trip up to cut out the ports rather than haul all the gear. We could move faster and still have sufficient days to get to our goal. It was a sunny and hazy day again but that didn't stop us from catching more pickerel up lake where the Broadleaf flows into Leaf Lake. We have been on this lake enough times over the years to know where to fish and how the fish live here. In no time I had caught up in totals and we had a couple on the stringer for later. We tied the stringer off to a tree then headed up to the port to see what lay ahead.

At this point I figured we had about 4" more water than 2 years ago but the river was still down about 16" from normal. There was a new beaver dam, a few areas we had to drag the boat through and when we finally reached the area of what would be Broadleaf portage 3, it was just a rock garden with wading to just get within eye sight of the portage start. We didn't even bother going to look at it since nothing had been cut prior and there was no way this would have been either. Any groups coming up in the past 2 years would most likely just have waded or lined through here. We couldn't see any way to get our load of gear up to the portage without bushwhacking a ways and we just weren't up for that again.

It will take a couple saws, spare chains and more people to finish cutting out this port and there are 5 after this one, not including the by-pass which is about 2km long. Abort, abort, again. 2 years ago we got stopped at this very point under the same circumstances. Gnarly rock and low water.

Back down the lake and some fishing in pools in the river netted a pike and small pickerel. Once fetching the stringer we added another pickerel to give us 3 for dinner that night. By the time we returned to camp my right bicep was hurting badly and I'm not sure how I had injured it again.

After our fish dinner we sat on the shore drinking coffee and feeding the turtles. Painted, not snappers. I found another wood tick on me which Christine deftly removed again. Neither of the beasts had been on long enough to burrow in which was lucky for me. She got leeches, I got ticks, she got the better part of that deal I think.

We were getting so tired from our activity that we had no energy to fish in the evenings. We did get some rain that night with more storms going around us and much more lightning. We pondered they might come and evict us with all the storms and fire danger but they never did. It stormed on us over night, raining fairly hard although in the morning all the rock was dry. The area needs rain desperately.

The first port above Leaf Lake is behind this...


Typical Broadleaf River scenery


Pancakes anyone?


Looking North from camp 2


Day 4, June 29th

Moving day again. We could have stayed a few more days but chose to leave knowing we had 2 days travel to be out and the heat was getting to us. Although wearing long sleeves, I was prone to removing my shirt and soaking it and putting it back on to bring down my core temperature. Christine would pour water over herself for the same reason, albeit she came out of the bush cleaner than I did although I spent a great deal of time in the water wading the boat through the many boulder fields.

Cooler on Monday with a NW wind, small cold front likely, hazy from smoke and a bit of cloud helped but the sun came out later and it felt like being grilled at times. On the way down through the lakes we went to the west side of the lower lake to investigate something we saw on the way in, which turned out to be a new airboat used for harvesting the wild rice. We have seen remnants on all these lakes of past harvesting but this is a new boat so there must be some profit in it again despite the remoteness of it.

We fished a bit on the float out to the port we had started to cut, and which we finished this time. So, all the portages from Wallace to Leaf Lakes are cut out. That little rapid there is a easy wade when water is this low and it has a nice gravel/sand bottom for a change. Most have sharp angular rocks which challenge footing. My new Keen water shoes worked especially well and I hope they last a few seasons for what they cost.

We encountered the same duck family on the way out but this time she only had 5 ducklings and one got separated again as we tried to get by. We figure there are some full pike and eagles who got the rest of the brood in 2 days.

We had planned to go to a site above port 6 on the return but with the sun we figured 6 would be better once we rigged to tarp.

As we approached I spotted an eagle sitting in the tree directly above the site. The Grandfathers were guiding us home for the night.

We were done fishing at this point so our totals for what amounted to only a few hours of actual angling were... Christine, 8 pickerel and 2 pike, Karin, 8 pickerel, 2 pike and a jumbo 11" yellow perch.

I watched Christine wrestle the tarp up as a sun shield as I journaled then I napped a bit while she cooked dinner. The sun had drained me and I slept for about 12 hours total that night what with napping in the evening.


New rice harvest equipment stashed near remnants


Looking south to the burn from 2010


Only burn one side of the river


Port 2 on the Broadleaf, finish cutting




Falls at Port 8 on the Wanipigow River


Upstream to Port 6, our guide holding the site


 
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Day 5, June 30th

The morning dawned cooler, with a good mist rising from the river and the coffee pot steaming on the Coleman 2 burner. We were up at 7 and on the river just after 9. Although we had camped at port 6 we still have to move everything across in the morning so it counts for the day.

Christine did some clean up of port 3, opening the one little tent pad and making the path wider and safer in a couple of spots.

There is a couple km between 6 and 5 then they are on top of each other so the last 5 out to the lake goes pretty quick. #2 is still bad in either direction so some time spent to dig a channel out would be beneficial in either direction in low water. Usually we go to the right coming out and just hump the gear over a 20 foot spit of land to avoid damaging the boat bumping it through the boulder field here, which we did again this time.

We were back out onto Wallace Lake just before noon and still had not much more than a breeze ahead of us. We did get the eagle again at eagle rock, then 2 more in a bay further down the lake, giving us sightings every day and 9 different eagles in total.

The paddle back down Wallace was on glass most of the way and we took our time, arriving back at the beach around 2. Leisurely loading then went looking for the park manager Marty. We didn't get up that way last year for obvious reasons so I felt the need to touch base since he would have been wondering why we missed a year up there. We have gone through Wallace Lake every year since 2008 other than last year and he kinda holds us in legendary status since he never sees two other ladies who go off into the back country for days, let alone weeks.

We did find him, he was happy to see us and catch up, we enjoyed 45 minutes visiting before hitting the road with a promise to return again.

Our initial plan had been 9 days but it turned into 5. It was mostly a matter of being out of shape, the heat sucking the life out of us, many aches and pains and knowing better than going too far in and not having the energy to get out. No loss since we did get out and get some work done. In retrospect it likely would have been better to set up camp at the park and stay the night then drive home in the morning. Less stress for us.

In the end, Day 1 and 5, 14km travelled with 6 ports each way. Day 2 and 4, 15km travelled with 4 ports each way. Day 3 foray, 4km each way with no ports. Total of 64 km travelled and 20 ports taken with 5 carries each. 4 portages cut out.

It was a good shakedown trip, tried some new gear, figured out what won't go to Marshall Lake and that we need to cut weight a bit but will never be gram weenies.

Once home I pulled up the Manitoba Fire site and found that over the weekend we were out, 23 new lightning fires erupted north of us, with 8 of them being along or just north of the Bloodvein River. That may explain why we had two float planes make close passes by where we were camping, as if they were checking up on us.

They are quite busy with fires and the forecast the next 2 days calls for more thunderstorms. We do hope they get some decent rain up there soon.





 
I enjoyed your report and must commend you for the work opening the ports. It's tough enough getting across them during a trip without cutting and lifting the logs to boot. It's nice to see an area have such good stewards, we can all learn from that. Glad you shared the pictures.
The bear encounter was interesting, just adds to the fun!!! ha
The eagle sequence was neat, you saw alot of them.
The last picture was neat, looking forward to seeing you two again in August.:)
 
No country for "old women"? I didn't see any in this trip report. I did see two ladies who live well and comfortably in the north country. And judging by that wonderful last photograph, I'd say that north country living agrees with them.
 
Give your self a break. Sounds like you made some progress on your bearanoia, you stayed put two nights after the sighting. Just getting out push's the walls out a little farther. Staying home lets them close in so it's harder to go next time. Congrats on getting out. I didn't have the energy on my Spring trip that I would have liked to have. By Fall I'm in the best shape of the year and than I fall back down the hill over Winter. Thanks for the TR and pictures.
 
The theme we came up with on the first night. I agree, although we had talked of moving down to the shack the next night, we stayed so I could push my boundaries a bit. Still, the thought of having only a bit of nylon between me and the wilderness means I take a pill every night, herbal Melatonin. It works well enough to keep me asleep and get me there, but when I take my late night pee I'm a bit groggy, lol.

If I stop going, I'll never go again, I know that, so I need to keep going until I just cannot, or get eaten.
 
Thanks for the report and all the work on the portages. Chainsaws and summer heat were never meant to be combined but you did it. I have a personal interest in the fire danger and possible back-country travel ban as I hoped to paddle out of Wallace and head east in a few weeks. How low can the Wanipigow go?? Looks like if the area is not closed I will be pulling my canoe a lot east of Siderock. If it is that dry it may be the year to use the Three Mothers to Obukowin Lake.
 
Yes, it is that dry. The moss is peeling off the rock faces. Marty, who runs the park at Wallace Lake says the last bit into Siderock going up the Wanipigow from Wallace is a push and drag already and the beavers are hard at work up there. The Mothers might be the best choice if it stays this dry.

Fire mapping for the areas we travel, Eastern Region specifically... http://www.gov.mb.ca/conservation/fire/Fire-Maps/

Local forecasts, bearing in mind Bisset is 30km west of Wallace Lake. http://weather.gc.ca/city/pages/mb-33_metric_e.html

Maybe the Red Lake forecasts as well since the Wanipigow begins down in Broken Arrow... http://weather.gc.ca/city/pages/on-104_metric_e.html
 
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Last year I struggled with my conditioning and it really was a downer on the trips I made. I made some adjustments this winter and felt much much better on my spring trip. It also made me do a re-think of my gear and lighter is nicer. I may still go lighter yet.

What Keen shoes did you get? I had a pair that lasted me years. They were getting pretty frayed so I bought a new pair last year. After two trips the new ones were all but shot or mores in a condition that I would not rely on them for a trip. I actually took my old shoes with this spring and they worked great, but I find the soles not terribly grippy on rock.

I had a Poulan saw. Served it's purpose and still runs, but some of the little things with it made me change to Stihl, now I wish I had have saved the money spent on the Poulan and got the Stihl in the first place. The dremel sharpening bit for the chainsaw that Lee Valley sells are the cats arse for sharpening chains.

I'm heading out to that area canoeing with a guy from work this weekend, can't remember quite where but it's up that direction. Does Cigar Lake sound right?

Nice trip report.
 
They are only called Walleye by Americans or Canadian camps wishing to bring American dollars in. In Canada they have always been pickerel!
 
Very well-written trip report! I especially enjoyed seeing the last picture of two happy partners/campers.

I also appreciated to some degree how easy tripping is in the Boundary Waters where portages are mostly cleared by others.

I hope you two can get back into decent shape and have many more trips in your future.
 
No, it is just the new thing up here. Ask any 20 year old and they will say they have always been Walleye, ask anyone over 50 and they have always been pickerel. The In-Fisherman magazine first coined the term Walleye in the 90's and it has run like wildfire since. It is a pet peeve for me since I know I'm right but even the local fisheries people up here insist it has always been walleye, but then they aren't over 50 either. Manitoba and Saskatchewan provincial fishies are now Walleye, Manitoba voting it in last year. As I said, just a pet peeve and I do my best to keep that part of Canadian heritage alive and well. So, if anyone asks me if I caught any Walleye, I just say no, lol.
 
The fish listed in provincial regulations is called a Walleye/Sauger. Pickerel is a pike like fish with a long snout. http://www.reelnorthoutfitters.com/images/walleye_vs_pickerel.pdf or http://www.getreeled.com/forum/topics/walleye-vs-pickerel-is-there-a-difference or https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walleye In southern Ontario they were calling them pickerel. Pickerel River comes to mind. Best place to catch Walleye on Red Lake is in Pickerel Bay. No matter what you call them, they sure are tasty.
 
Yes they are Red and we had some mighty tasty ones this week. It sure helped stretch the food barrel, not that we needed it. The unused dehydrated stuff can be taken on the Marshall trip.

I have to say that Swift sure makes a rugged canoe. That poor little Mattawa has served us pretty well for the last number of years and we are not gentle with it. I am always surprised that we can load it up and it scoots along smartly. We really should have a larger boat but this one does the trick currently. Much more so than the 18 foot Jensen we had.

Marten...if you were ever going to go through the mothers into Obukowin, this is a good year for it. The Wani should be ok but you will be doing some wading in the rock garden east of Siderock for sure.

Kim...I think we are just out of shape and getting a bit old to keep up the kind of pace we used to. It really all boils down to taking longer to get places and maybe not so much hot weather tripping. I like the fall better. Earlier spring would be good too but dang, we had snow not much more than a month ago. So I guess it is all pretty much guesswork.

I had a good time this trip but was really not up for pushing the envelope too much. I have lots to do here at home anyway, including finishing a boat and fixing another one. So it was time well spent in one of my favourite places. I will go back again. And again, and again. We are thinking of doing a fishing trip on Pakwash Lake this fall instead ...cabin, tin boat and motor...should be awesome.

Christy
 
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