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My First Canoe Build

Apparently screws long enough to support seat hanging do not exist at any hardware store or major box store. I even called West Marine locally and they only have screw lengths up to 4". Where does everyone source their hanging hardware for the seats?
 
I get mine from McMaster Carr. I believe Jim uses regular carriage bolts from the hardware store without problem. He's been building them long enough so they must work fine.

Alan
 
The prices are often scary but Fastenal can provide just about anything, if there's one near you. I think Ed's Canoe also offers seat hardware.
 
Screwed. And the split exposed 2 of them. But I'm happy to report that there was no discoloration or evidence of rot. It was strictly a matter of a 200-plus pound weight (me) dropping from several feet onto the seat.

Now about seat placement... I see you are planning on putting the bow seat about 55" from the bow. I think that's a good idea. I used Gilpatrick's recommendation, which is 48" from the bow, and I have always regretted it. It was too close to the bow when tandem for the bow paddler who had no storage space up front of him/her and when paddled solo backwards from the bow seat, it was too far from the center to make a good solo paddling position!

After repairing my gunnel I had the option to put the seat back in its original spot. I have no doubt that the epoxy repaired gunnel is as strong as ever and would be fine. But since I was never happy with my bow seat placement I have decided to rehang my bow seat closer to center. (This will necessitate building a new seat that is wide enough to hang from that position).

During research I came across this schematic of a Chestnut Pal, which has very, very similar dimensions to Gilpatrick's Wabnaki -- the canoe I built and that you are building. Notice the bow seat placement! 58" back from the tip of the bow! 28.5" from center. Now, the Pal's seats are only 9.5" deep as shown in this schematic and the Wabnaki seats are 15" deep (if you build to Gilpatrick's specs. So your proposed 55" placement from the bow should put the back edge of the bow seat 2.5" inches closer to the center at around 26" (close is better for solo paddling) while still giving ample leg and gear room in front of the bow paddler.

Our own Robin solo paddled a Pal for years, I believe, and I would be interested in hearing his views on bow seat position for the Pal.


Alsg, thankyou for the detail you provided in your post with the PAL. Prime importance to me was that the solo seat positioning (bow seat) of my canoe will accomodate my size and solo adventures. I improvised based on several tripping options that would allow for coolers and gear of a tandem trip, but most definitely favored the seating position for a solo situation. My concern with moving the seat to far forward was that I didn't want to just paddle in circles so I believe that I have achieved a practical seat placement that will allow for minor corrective strokes. We shall see.
 
I get mine from McMaster Carr. I believe Jim uses regular carriage bolts from the hardware store without problem. He's been building them long enough so they must work fine.

Alan

I thought of picking up some carriage bolts but didn't know whether or not it would look right. If Jim is using them then they are good enough for me. Looks like I am picking up some carriage bolts tomorrow!
 
I thought of picking up some carriage bolts but didn't know whether or not it would look right. If Jim is using them then they are good enough for me. Looks like I am picking up some carriage bolts tomorrow!

I've gone to stainless 1/4" carriage bolts. Yeah, they are spendy, especially the longer ones. Ordered them from Fastenal, locally


3/16", pan head with Stainless washers are also good !

Go with what you can find.

Jim
 
Interesting ! To me anyway, ! cap my gunnels with the Outwhale, the same as Chestnut does with the Pal.

It works for me, as it Seals the top of the shear, I always worried about rot starting at the shear, with just varnish protecting glass/wood Sandwich of the hull, at the shear..

Jim
 
Well, the canoe is done with the exception of the stern seat install. Will be installing using shorter than normal spacers since I still do not have possession of 6" or 7" bolts yet. I do have 4" machine screws that I will be using to install the stern seat temporarily as I will be using the canoe on my solo trip this Friday. I will taking this Wabnaki on her maiden voyage on a loop trip in the Allagash region. Let's hope she floats!!!

I decided on a satin urethane and have mixed feelings about this at this time. I elected to use satin over a high gloss or a semi gloss for reduction of glare in periods of heavy sunlight. Overall I am quite pleased with how it turned out. Here are a few pics of the bow seat installed and an overall shot of the canoe. Been a long haul but it is now time to put her to the test. CanoeFinish1.jpgCanoeFinish.jpg
 
Looks Great ! Don't worry ! It will float !

Enjoy the trip ! Take plenty of video ! :rolleyes:

High gloss varnish is supposed to provide more UV resistance.
They all loose their shine soon enough.

If you find the hull a little unstable ? Lowering the seats will help !

Give yourself a pat on the back !

Jim
 
I agree about the seating height. Limited at the moment with material availability. I am leaving on Friday for my trip and tomorrow I intend to scour some stores for either longer machine screws or use carriage bolts as previously discussed. Shipping times with available material wouldn’t have made it to me in time.

My concern with carriage bolts is the extra material under the head that the gunwales would need to accommodate. With my gunwales already thinner than plan I felt as though I would be violating the integrity of the inwale. Considered epoxy gluing another 3/4” piece below the gunwale extension to allow me to bore out enough material to sink the carriage bolt. I may stil do that but time is running out.
 
That looks great. I like the satin look. Satin looks softer and more inviting to the touch. Sometimes glossy looks too much like plastic.

Enjoy your trip (and boat)!

Alan
 
What's your current installed seat height? Or spacer sizes? The Wabnaki is a very stable canoe and you may find no need to lower the seat.
 
Spacers are 3” and the seat height is 9” from the keel

I think you will find that is low enough on the Wabnaki, particularly with a tripping load. It's a very stable canoe.

I actually use 3/4" and 1" spacers on my bow seat (I like to keep at least 9" of space between the bottom edge of the seat frame and the bottom of the canoe to get my feet under the seat when kneeling. I'll also add that I was reading up more on the Chestnut Pal (with similar dimensions to the Wabnaki) and the factory spacers on the bow seat were all 3/4".

Have fun on your Allagash region loop (I'm jealous!). When you get back, you can decide whether to raise, lower or keep the same spacing.
 
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I will keep it as is and modify when I get back if necessary. I am packing light as I have a couple 2 mile portages to conquer. Thanks for that feedback Alsg. Definitely reassuring! I will get as much of it on film to share with you all when I get back!
 
Wow! Nice job! If you cant source seat hangar bolts, in a pinch, threaded rod with a finish washer and cap nut would get you through your first trip and you could order longer machine screws.

I am eagerly awaiting your trip photos!

Jason
 
Nice job ... you are going to love your boat. It looks nice and beamy, so I suspect it will be an awesome tripper under load.

If you decide to change the varnish, that is a simple operation at the end of the year, just do a cleanup and swap, for now, use the boat and appreciate what you have accomplished. I typically will use a high gloss inside and out for max protection, then use a flat final coat on the interior to kill any reflection. So your thinking is on point IMO.

Again, congrats both on finishing and getting out, you are going to have a grin from ear to ear, once loaded and underway.

Brian
 
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