Oh please,no rush at all. I fell behind on some school work this week because of this new boat. As a matter of fact, I need to go do report cards now, be well.
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Happy Midnight Ride of Paul Revere (1775)! ⛪🕯️🕛🏇🏼
Mad River Monarch
- Thread starter coldfeet
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Monarch stuff
It appears that you are missing one of the foot brace pedals. I don’t remember if I replaced them or the boat came that way, but my Monarch has Harmony foot braces. I think I replaced them when I discovered that the existing holes and hardware lined up perfectly.
The OEM rudder control pedals are problematic if you need to adjust the pedals for leg length. Even if no one else paddles the boat the position of the rudder control pedals varies a bit with adjusted seat height (or summer barefoot vs winter mukluks).
The existing slider tracks fortuitously accommodate Harmony rudder pedals (which ones I don’t recall – measure center to center on the mounting hardware for the match), on which the pedals can be easily adjusted without having to fiddle inconveniently with the rudder cable length. That may be the biggest improvement you can make to the functionality of the Monarch.
I didn’t like the idea of that rope and pulley system that runs under the bow deck possibly sawing away at the edge of a dry bag and removed it, installing instead a simple length of bungee to each rudder pedal. That bungee stretches forward to self-center pull the pedals even when not in use.
I don’t know if the stainless steel rudder cable needs to be replaced on your Monarch. MRC did use good cable back in the day. You’ll need to unhook it anyway if you replace that difficult to adjust rudder control pedal system. In any case it helps to run the cable through some thin tubing so it is sheathed and not sawing away at dry bags if you stuff gear under the decks.
The seat is comfy, but more so if covered with a piece of RidgeRest or other foam.
I’m all about boat comfort, and have a blown L2/L3; I added four pads eyes so I can clip on a Surf-to-Summit Performance backband.
And 3/8” minicel knee bumpers on the edges of the cockpit rim. A couple of wee strips of minicel and some contact cement makes a world of difference when I can comfortable brace against or under the cockpit rim.
A simple wood ball make grabbing the rudder retraction line easier. The line is just long enough to fully release the rudder, and to tuck the ball underneath so it doesn’t WHAPWHAPWHAP against the hull in transport. I don’t recall if that was a closed cam cleat originally, but it is now.
I added carry handle to the stems for easier tandem carry or other times I need to grab an end and pull. Sometimes I much rather be hauling on a hand kindly handle than a bowline.
On long gear intensive trips I end up with some things on the deck, sleeping pad or camp chair in DIY dry bags, so I installed strap grommets to tie (strap) down those long linear bags.
I added DIY paddle-keepers to either side to secure a paddle, spare paddle, furled sail, etc. I really appreciate being able to secure the paddle(s) when launching or landing and wanting both hands free, especially in fugly conditions.
The utility thwart is my own peculiarity; it holds a Spirit Sail mount (the Monarch sails wonderfully), deck compass, and an open cleat to secure the bowline (I like having the bow line instantly at hand when landing in waves) and a couple of cross bungees to hold misc gear near at hand.
I expect you can install some simple V of bungee somewhere as a paddle keep without a utility thwart; a paddle shaft tucks nicely under the cockpit coming.
D-rings bow and stern for gear restraint. Or floatation bags if paddling gear light; that huge open cockpit and no bulkheads can make for a lot of water. Think bilge pump too – it’s easier to pump it dry, especially if it is just a puddle no worth flipping the boat over.
Speaking of flipping the Monarch over – be careful. Because of the rudder configuration I’d rather not flip that boat upside down in camp. Whadda ya know, the storage cover for a Wilderness Systems Pamlico 145T fits the Monarch to near perfection. $50 vs five times that from other sources, and with the cover on I can leave all the paddling gear inside the hull at night stored dry and out of sight.
There is more. I epoxied some strategic lengths of fiberglass tape under the decks to make them more rigid and added simple deck bungees. Fairleads for a Pacific Action Sail on the bow. Other gewgaws and knickknacks to suit my style or lack thereof.
FWIW, anytime you drill a hole to install some hardware on the decks or cockpit edges think about the possibility of putting some tie point inside the hull on the other side of that same two-for-one hole.
If you do not have a well-stocked outfitter shop available these guys carry anything you might need, plus fair prices and great service:
http://topkayaker.com/
That oughta keep you busy for a while.
It appears that you are missing one of the foot brace pedals. I don’t remember if I replaced them or the boat came that way, but my Monarch has Harmony foot braces. I think I replaced them when I discovered that the existing holes and hardware lined up perfectly.
The OEM rudder control pedals are problematic if you need to adjust the pedals for leg length. Even if no one else paddles the boat the position of the rudder control pedals varies a bit with adjusted seat height (or summer barefoot vs winter mukluks).
The existing slider tracks fortuitously accommodate Harmony rudder pedals (which ones I don’t recall – measure center to center on the mounting hardware for the match), on which the pedals can be easily adjusted without having to fiddle inconveniently with the rudder cable length. That may be the biggest improvement you can make to the functionality of the Monarch.
I didn’t like the idea of that rope and pulley system that runs under the bow deck possibly sawing away at the edge of a dry bag and removed it, installing instead a simple length of bungee to each rudder pedal. That bungee stretches forward to self-center pull the pedals even when not in use.
I don’t know if the stainless steel rudder cable needs to be replaced on your Monarch. MRC did use good cable back in the day. You’ll need to unhook it anyway if you replace that difficult to adjust rudder control pedal system. In any case it helps to run the cable through some thin tubing so it is sheathed and not sawing away at dry bags if you stuff gear under the decks.
The seat is comfy, but more so if covered with a piece of RidgeRest or other foam.
I’m all about boat comfort, and have a blown L2/L3; I added four pads eyes so I can clip on a Surf-to-Summit Performance backband.
And 3/8” minicel knee bumpers on the edges of the cockpit rim. A couple of wee strips of minicel and some contact cement makes a world of difference when I can comfortable brace against or under the cockpit rim.
A simple wood ball make grabbing the rudder retraction line easier. The line is just long enough to fully release the rudder, and to tuck the ball underneath so it doesn’t WHAPWHAPWHAP against the hull in transport. I don’t recall if that was a closed cam cleat originally, but it is now.
I added carry handle to the stems for easier tandem carry or other times I need to grab an end and pull. Sometimes I much rather be hauling on a hand kindly handle than a bowline.
On long gear intensive trips I end up with some things on the deck, sleeping pad or camp chair in DIY dry bags, so I installed strap grommets to tie (strap) down those long linear bags.
I added DIY paddle-keepers to either side to secure a paddle, spare paddle, furled sail, etc. I really appreciate being able to secure the paddle(s) when launching or landing and wanting both hands free, especially in fugly conditions.
The utility thwart is my own peculiarity; it holds a Spirit Sail mount (the Monarch sails wonderfully), deck compass, and an open cleat to secure the bowline (I like having the bow line instantly at hand when landing in waves) and a couple of cross bungees to hold misc gear near at hand.
I expect you can install some simple V of bungee somewhere as a paddle keep without a utility thwart; a paddle shaft tucks nicely under the cockpit coming.
D-rings bow and stern for gear restraint. Or floatation bags if paddling gear light; that huge open cockpit and no bulkheads can make for a lot of water. Think bilge pump too – it’s easier to pump it dry, especially if it is just a puddle no worth flipping the boat over.
Speaking of flipping the Monarch over – be careful. Because of the rudder configuration I’d rather not flip that boat upside down in camp. Whadda ya know, the storage cover for a Wilderness Systems Pamlico 145T fits the Monarch to near perfection. $50 vs five times that from other sources, and with the cover on I can leave all the paddling gear inside the hull at night stored dry and out of sight.
There is more. I epoxied some strategic lengths of fiberglass tape under the decks to make them more rigid and added simple deck bungees. Fairleads for a Pacific Action Sail on the bow. Other gewgaws and knickknacks to suit my style or lack thereof.
FWIW, anytime you drill a hole to install some hardware on the decks or cockpit edges think about the possibility of putting some tie point inside the hull on the other side of that same two-for-one hole.
If you do not have a well-stocked outfitter shop available these guys carry anything you might need, plus fair prices and great service:
http://topkayaker.com/
That oughta keep you busy for a while.
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Took out "Big Red" today to test paddle. Rudder was taken off because it was bent, the area I was going to paddle today was quiet and no need for the rudder. Boat floats, my friend showed be a better way to position the seat. It glided pretty well, and was responsive turning. I used a double blade 230 cm paddle and I did hit my hands on the combing, ouch! I need to try a 250 cm paddle and keep hands raised or put water pipe foam insulation on the combing. My friend paddled it with a bent canoe paddle (short) then switched over to a longer straight canoe paddle and he made it go where he wanted to. I need to work on j stroke. On the way back to the put in I was wiggling my butt around and "Bam!" My seat slide off the bracket on one side and I was sitting tilted. Need to figure out about securing it better. My back was sore for some reason, maybe the tight wet suit since it was 34f this morning, or paddling without a backrest since I'm used to kayaking a lot. Who knows. Boat will be a work in progress, thanks for all the help.
ps, Thanks Mike, going to look at the pics now.
Took out "Big Red" today to test paddle. Rudder was taken off because it was bent, the area I was going to paddle today was quiet and no need for the rudder. Boat floats, my friend showed be a better way to position the seat. It glided pretty well, and was responsive turning. I used a double blade 230 cm paddle and I did hit my hands on the combing, ouch! I need to try a 250 cm paddle and keep hands raised or put water pipe foam insulation on the combing. My friend paddled it with a bent canoe paddle (short) then switched over to a longer straight canoe paddle and he made it go where he wanted to. I need to work on j stroke. On the way back to the put in I was wiggling my butt around and "Bam!" My seat slide off the bracket on one side and I was sitting tilted. Need to figure out about securing it better. My back was sore for some reason, maybe the tight wet suit since it was 34f this morning, or paddling without a backrest since I'm used to kayaking a lot. Who knows. Boat will be a work in progress, thanks for all the help.
ps, Thanks Mike, going to look at the pics now.
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Now I looked at the pictures and read about it, wow! I read about a guy who wrote up a 7 day project making the Monarch into a sailing canoe and it wall painted Jamaican Yellow. Somewhere I will try to google it and send the link, sad part was the pics don't come up. Glad to see the back rest, mine was sore today. Can you explain to me the tern "Cat sleve?" Sounds like it's used to strengthen the boat where needed. I'm overwhelmed right now seeing what cool work you did to your boat. I'm sure all of your boats have your "touch" to them. Very impressive. Will keep in touch. David
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A seven day project of turning a Monarch into a sailing canoe? That sounds like a really cool guy and a fast working craftsman. I’d like to meet him. I’ll bet he is smart and handsome as well as cunning.
Oh, wait, that was me. I have a friend who, after paddling and sailing my Monarch, lusted after one of his own. When he found one he brought it up to my shop and asked that it be outfitted identical to mine, down to the utility thwart and various other gewgaws.
The hull was green, and he wanted to rudder painted yellow. I thought the yellow rudder looked awfully plain and stark, so I painted it yellow, green and black in the design of a Jamaican flag.
https://www.google.com/search?q=jama...ml%3B390%3B265
All of the rudders on my boats are striped and have reflective tape on them. It helps keep me from banging my head on the rudder when I walk behind the truck and hopefully serves similar notice to other pedestrians and drivers.
Oh Man, that's embarrassing. So you know that I did a ton of reading this past week. Also just joined a website based in Florida (WaterTribe) and asked some question there also. Maybe, just maybe I can meet up with you guys and join the Monarch group. Do you mind if I send a private message later this week asking info? Thanks, gotta go, the wife is calling me and I can't say no, even though I was paddling at 6am today. Hey would you have any quick fix ideas about bathroom sinks! I gotta fix it or I can't go out next weekend, ahhhhh. Thanks, be well.
I'm no fan of the OEM rudder adjustment. I never thought about abrading dry bags with the line running across the bow but the rudder does get jammed or functions badly if you have something against that cable in the bow.
Thanks for the pictures A redo of the rudder system is a good idea.
Thanks for the pictures A redo of the rudder system is a good idea.
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That OEM rudder system leaves a lot to be desired. I noticed that when Jim Henry’s personal Monarch came up for sale a year or so ago it had a Feathercraft style rudder and not the Kruger version. The Kruger style rudder and controls would be easier to repair in the field, but I’d prefer a rudder that flipped up 270 degrees onto the deck.
Sheathing the rudder cable and removing that pulley system under the bow deck eliminated any jamming due to interference from stuffed dry bags or gear pressing against the cable or pulley line.
Coldfeet, send me a PM and I’ll reply with my Gmail address.
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Disregard the cat sleeve. It is a feature on Kruger Sea Winds (and etc) that allows two boats to be turned into a catamaran by inserting poles into sleeves that run through and across the hull. Unless you have two like boats and plan on doing expedition trips at sea, having one person sleep while someone paddles the other side of the cat, or using a large sail*, meh, I don’t see the point.
The Monarch is plenty strong. I bridged mine when a wave tossed me ashore, both stems on the bank while the middle of the boat was suspended above water. Even with me and a gear load aboard it survived, although no one has ever exited a decked boat into waist deep water as fast.
*The Monarch does make for a fine downwind sailing craft
Mike, you are making it very difficult for me to concentrate on work this morning with that AWESOME pic! Ahhhhh! That's what my boat looks like...sort of. It's red on top and faded red on the bottom, probably do to laying outside for a very long time. I wonder if any structure damage do to UV rays? Would you mind if I showed my wife this pic and asked her for a few holiday presents coming up? 
How long is that Werner? I used a 230cm and thought it could be 20 cm longer. I tend to drop my hands a bit and want to fut some pipe insulation around the combing for those hits. Gotta run, thanks...keep them pics coming.
How long is that Werner? I used a 230cm and thought it could be 20 cm longer. I tend to drop my hands a bit and want to fut some pipe insulation around the combing for those hits. Gotta run, thanks...keep them pics coming.
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I wonder if any structure damage do to UV rays? Would you mind if I showed my wife this pic and asked her for a few holiday presents coming up?
By all means show the wife. Tell her she needs a decked sailing canoe of her own.
I wouldn’t worry too much about structural UV damage, the Monarch is gel coated. The paddle is a 260cm carbon Werner Camano. I am a low angle double blader and could probably get away with a 250cm, but that 260 was a special order paddle that belonged to a departed friend and holds memories for me.
The sail is a Spirit Sail. I tested and reviewed dang near every downwind sail on the market and the Spirit Sail is my absolute favorite. It is compact when stowed, easy to put up and hands free to operate (no lines or sheets). And it moves the Monarch along smartly in winds from 5 to 15 MPH.
A few more photos:
Sailing view from the cockpit. Note the bow wake; the Monarch is moving along at a good clip, hands free and steady as a rock in a 10mph tailwind.
A family four-pack of decked canoes, all rigged for sailing. 70’s Hyperform Optima, 70’s Old Town Sockeye, 80’s Phoenix Vagabond, 90’s Monarch.
BTW – How much fun is sailing?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jU2mE83Gi0M
That was in the Vagabond, not the Monarch, but the joy is the same. (There is a reason the rudder cables are crossed on some of my boats)
Get back to work dammit.
So no lines on that sailing rig? Not doubting its capabilities but it just doesn't look like that one little mount and the poles should be able to stand the force of a 15mph wind. Does the mount have some sort of break away so that if I larger gust comes up the sail can blow over rather than break something? Does the whole thing pitch forward in stronger winds to shed some of the energy? How do they determine a 15mph wind? Is that land speed or air speed? If a 15mph was pushing you at 5mph then the sail would only be feeling 10mph. Does that mean you can sail in a 20 mph wind if it's pushing you at least 5mph?
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Mike, I double clicked onto your pic with the 4 boats and it took me to another link with many other pics, including the Maryland trip. I went there twice with the Long Island Paddlers and had a wonderful time. We stayed in motels and did day trips checking out the ponies. Looked like I saw that Jamaican boat in the group shot of 4. Here's a Maryland pic...I can't spell Asateague correctly,at least I don't think so.
Mike, I double clicked onto your pic with the 4 boats and it took me to another link with many other pics, including the Maryland trip. I went there twice with the Long Island Paddlers and had a wonderful time. We stayed in motels and did day trips checking out the ponies. Looked like I saw that Jamaican boat in the group shot of 4. Here's a Maryland pic...I can't spell Asateague correctly,at least I don't think so.
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Alan, zero lines or sheets on the Spirit Sail. The pole are carbon fiber and bend/flex in high winds or sudden gusts. I have had the large Spirit Sail (twice the size of the mid-size shown) up in 20 mph wind and the V shaped sail battens were flexed over nearly horizontal. Somewhere I have a photo Charlie Wilson took of me sailing past that day; I look comfortable but in reality I was ready to pee my pants – that boat was flying. (I should have been using the smaller Spirit Sail).
As far as wind speed I’m using what the weather radio had predicted or my own guesstimation. In a 5mph tailwind the Spirit Sail is still effective, although I could paddle faster if I wanted to. At 10 – 15 mph the (mid-size) Spirit sail is perfect and the Monarch cruises along as fast or faster than I could paddle. In winds approaching 20mph the hull is moving along right smartly, but because the battens flex the ride is still smooth.
The best of the higher wind sailing comes when the hull and wave speed are nearly equal and the boat just settles in firm and steady. In ideal wind and wave conditions I get a nice surf long surf off each wave crest and the hull is still rock solid.
If you look at the video link in a post above you’ll see that friend Joel was using the mid-sized Spirit Sail in very light winds (in very shallow water with a gear laden boat) and was still moving along at a nice cruising speed.
This is the full-sized Spirit Sail on the 70’s Hyperform Optima in a near nothing breeze on the bay. The hull is still moving along perhaps 2 mph, but because the sail is hands free I could concentrate on my map and compass navigation in the fog.
The bayside of Assateague National Seasore is an excellent place to paddle in and camp at one of four backcountry sites in the offseason and is one of my favorite places in the mid-Atlantic region in winter. No Jamaican Monarch in that group; three decked boats from the 70’s and 80’s soloized as tripping sailers and the Monarch.
Great pic Mike. So I'm guessing your up north near the ADK's if you mention Charlie Wilson. I was wondering what size sail you used. I'm having a difficult time locating cockpit cover for Pamilco 145 right now. I also was told that a Wilderness System Pamlico 165t solo would be a good spray skirt, also having a tough time with that on too. Do you know Watertribes website? A few guys there have Monarch's and have been giving me info. Seems like there are quit a few out there. Thanks, Be well.
My spray skirt for the Monarch is made by Dan Cooke of Cooke Custom Sewing.
http://www.cookecustomsewing.com/canoecovers.htm
Quite useful..but it does benefit from a metal reinforcing bar forward otherwise it sags. Ask Dan about that. He can work something in.
There aren't a lot of Monarchs and what there is is coveted by Watertribers and some from Michigan because its so good on the Great Lakes.
Charlie has crossed paths with quite a few of us in person. He gets around.. Sometimes can be found South.. Mike is not around the ADKs! I still miss Miles canoe reviews in the old Paddler magazine.
http://www.cookecustomsewing.com/canoecovers.htm
Quite useful..but it does benefit from a metal reinforcing bar forward otherwise it sags. Ask Dan about that. He can work something in.
There aren't a lot of Monarchs and what there is is coveted by Watertribers and some from Michigan because its so good on the Great Lakes.
Charlie has crossed paths with quite a few of us in person. He gets around.. Sometimes can be found South.. Mike is not around the ADKs! I still miss Miles canoe reviews in the old Paddler magazine.
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I really do not like wearing a skirt. Even the CCS covers on a couple of my canoes are partials that leave me with an open “cockpit” (with a closed center storage cover that can be snapped on).
Sag on the 90” x 22” cockpit of the Monarch is unavoidable without some kind of stays or additional support. Even the Pamlico storage cover would sag enough to implode under a puddle of rain water, but the back band provides some arch and the utility thwart some additional support up front. Even with the storage cover on for the night I learned to set the Monarch at a slight sideways angle, so rain runs off the edges of the cover instead of puddling heavily in the middle.
I didn’t make it to the Adirondacks this year, for the first time in 20 years. I was fully packed for a trip there, including gear in dry bags and canoe on the car. And changed my mind the night before and repacked everything (including boat choice, paddles and dry bags) to spend a week exploring the DeMarVa peninsula. The unfettered freedom of retirement doth have its consequences.
I always enjoyed doing the boat reviews for Paddler. I got to paddle a total of 50 or 60 nice boats over time, usually four to six similar canoes in a head to head comparison. In real conditions, tripping in the trippers, alongside a collection of volunteers helping with their views on the different hulls. It was not a financial success; by the time I drove hither and yon picking up new boats, organizing trips with test paddlers and reviewing their notes after trips I would have made more money saying “Would you like fries with that?”
But I doubt I would have realized how suitable decked canoes are for where I often trip without the opportunity to paddle the then currently manufactured boats – Kruger Sea Wind, Clipper Sea-1, Sawyer Loon and Bell Rob Roy.
That sparked my interest and I retrofitted the 70’s Old Town Sockeye, which I had previously rebuilt tandem as it came from the factory, as a decked solo sailing tripper, and I was hooked. There are some interesting tandem decked boats from the 70’s and 80’s that retrofit nicely as solo trippers
Front to back:
Soloized 70’s Old Town Sockeye – Heavy as heck glass, woven roving and thick gel coat. But it accommodates a ton of gear, paddles and sails nicely and is the most Barcalounger comfortabe outfitted boat I own.
Soloized 80’s Phoenix Vagabond – Much lighter, pigmented glass and nylon with no gel coat. Heavily loaded it isn’t a deep enough hull for my bulk, but it is fantastic for a lighter weight paddler. It also has nice long rocker on the stems; so it is nimble and sails very well.
Soloized 70’s Hyperform Optima – A cross between the Sockeye and Vagabond. It is as deep and voluminous as the Sockeye, but pigmented glass/nylon and weight like the Vagabond with similar rocker. It was the most difficult hull to soloize, since everydamn bit of tandem outfitting was factory glassed into place, but it made another fine sailing and tripping hull.
Sockeye, Optima and Vagabond
There are other oddball composite decked tandems from the 70’s and 80’s out there. I just missed one on a local Craigslist that was dirt encrusted “needs power washing” that looked similar to the Optima (I couldn’t read the logo on it, not Hyperform). $75.
I keep coming back from trips a day or three too late.
Well I followed Coldfeet over here from the Watertribe site. I never knew this site existed. But I've been on other sites with yellowcanoe and Mike...
You know how opinions are, everybody has one. Well, I haven't paddled my Monarch anywhere without the rudder being down. It bumps up over obstacles, so I don't see it hanging up. I don't flip over my boat on land very often either... So yeah, I'm a fan of the rudders on these boats and use them ALL the time. I agree you need either foot pegs or rudder pedals to brace with. All the better with the back band. That way you can really lock in. Useful in really rough conditions. And listen to Mike, he knows his stuff. Forget that silly pulley system on the rudder pedals, just use a bungee on each side. One thing I learned, do NOT try to use BOTH the rudder pedals and the foot pegs at the same time. I believe they are meant to use one or the other. So move the foot pegs up/forward out of the way or take them off completely if you are using the rudder pedals.
Mike, I acquired my Monarch and my red/white Sea Wind from Mick Wood, you went on the Assateague trip with him and did the big write up on it. Pretty cool stuff. Mick got out of the canoeing hobby for the most part, and I helped his move out most of his fleet of canoes. Anyway, Mick was a big fan of the backrest on the Krugers and now I am too. I don't paddle without one. Not so much for back support, mine are low over the seat. But it keeps my pelvis tilted forward and makes the seat 10X more comfortable. I've paddled over 100 miles in a sitting in a couple expedition races I've been in. So when I buy my Monarch from Mick, he tells me I need to do some work on it, as if my agreeing to "fix" some issues were a condition of sale. I kinda thought of him as being a little eccentric at the time. Later, I learned he was absolutely right. He told me to get a proper Kruger rudder on it. He wrecked it once because it would not turn good enough. Well, I paddled it for a year as equipped with factory rudder, and didn't think anything of it. Then I paddled a Sea Wind and only then did I realize that the Monarch turned like the Titanic with the stock rudder...with my Kruger design rudder, it turns on a dime. He told me also to get the deck beefed up. Scott Smith of Superior Canoes did that for me, at the same time installing a front catamaran tube, which I DO use to cat up with the Kruger with my daughter in the BWCA/Quetico. I love to tandem this way...don't care for tandem canoes.
Coldfeet...when installing the seat, be sure the front and back seat tubes are in identical slots in the hangars, counting from the bottom up, in positions 1, 2, or 3. The 4th position in the front is only for when you flip over the seat to portage. I don't think there is a 4th position in the back, the back tube goes in 3 to portage. For whatever reason, I paddle my boats in the middle position, 99.99% of the time, it works for me.
If you are looking for a storage cover OR a skirt, look on eBay for the Wilderness Systems Pamlico and check the measurements to your Monarch. I think the 16T cover works, although a different one (145?) is also mentioned. The Kruger Sea Wind uses aluminum slats bent in a half-oval shape, inserted into pad eyes on the inside of the cockpit combing, to hold the spray skirt up so it doesn't pool water. I use up to 3 of them in front of the paddler. I don't use 'em in the back since typically there is a pack back there preventing the skirt from sagging. If I'm not in really rough stuff, I use two hoops and fold the 2' or so of skirt under the second hoop, keeping my lap area open.
Sails: If you like a sail, lots of Watertribe folks are fans of the PAS sails. They are pretty slick, a step up from the Spirit sails in that they are adjustable for different points of wind...I'm guessing the Spirit sails are pretty limited to downwind sailing. If you want to really have some fun, get a proper sail and the only one to buy is the Falcon Sail. Patrick Forester, the owner of the company, has outfitted many a kayak with his sails, and recently a Monarch. I installed one myself on my Sea Wind for the Watertribe Everglades Challenge race. There are many Watertribers loyal to FEKS sails as well, but the Falcon is gaining market share due to its superior design and construction (yes I'm a fan!).
Do me a favor, if you ever decide to sell your Monarch, or come across a Sawyer Loon or Kruger Sea Wind for sale, let me know. They are getting harder and harder to find, and only the Kruger is for sale new and for $7500! You polish your Monarch up and get it fixed up good, it would go for $1500. joewildlife at yahoo dot com Lots of folks ask me if I want to sell one of mine. I have a "dibbs list". We fans of the Loon are called "Loonatics", and fans of Krugers are called "Krugerheads". I'm both.
This is a pic of my Falcon sail deployed (and skirt installed) on my Sea Wind, during the 2013 Everglades Challenge.
Enjoy your boat and always feel free to ask for advice or suggestions...obviously several of us are happy to help!
You know how opinions are, everybody has one. Well, I haven't paddled my Monarch anywhere without the rudder being down. It bumps up over obstacles, so I don't see it hanging up. I don't flip over my boat on land very often either... So yeah, I'm a fan of the rudders on these boats and use them ALL the time. I agree you need either foot pegs or rudder pedals to brace with. All the better with the back band. That way you can really lock in. Useful in really rough conditions. And listen to Mike, he knows his stuff. Forget that silly pulley system on the rudder pedals, just use a bungee on each side. One thing I learned, do NOT try to use BOTH the rudder pedals and the foot pegs at the same time. I believe they are meant to use one or the other. So move the foot pegs up/forward out of the way or take them off completely if you are using the rudder pedals.
Mike, I acquired my Monarch and my red/white Sea Wind from Mick Wood, you went on the Assateague trip with him and did the big write up on it. Pretty cool stuff. Mick got out of the canoeing hobby for the most part, and I helped his move out most of his fleet of canoes. Anyway, Mick was a big fan of the backrest on the Krugers and now I am too. I don't paddle without one. Not so much for back support, mine are low over the seat. But it keeps my pelvis tilted forward and makes the seat 10X more comfortable. I've paddled over 100 miles in a sitting in a couple expedition races I've been in. So when I buy my Monarch from Mick, he tells me I need to do some work on it, as if my agreeing to "fix" some issues were a condition of sale. I kinda thought of him as being a little eccentric at the time. Later, I learned he was absolutely right. He told me to get a proper Kruger rudder on it. He wrecked it once because it would not turn good enough. Well, I paddled it for a year as equipped with factory rudder, and didn't think anything of it. Then I paddled a Sea Wind and only then did I realize that the Monarch turned like the Titanic with the stock rudder...with my Kruger design rudder, it turns on a dime. He told me also to get the deck beefed up. Scott Smith of Superior Canoes did that for me, at the same time installing a front catamaran tube, which I DO use to cat up with the Kruger with my daughter in the BWCA/Quetico. I love to tandem this way...don't care for tandem canoes.
Coldfeet...when installing the seat, be sure the front and back seat tubes are in identical slots in the hangars, counting from the bottom up, in positions 1, 2, or 3. The 4th position in the front is only for when you flip over the seat to portage. I don't think there is a 4th position in the back, the back tube goes in 3 to portage. For whatever reason, I paddle my boats in the middle position, 99.99% of the time, it works for me.
If you are looking for a storage cover OR a skirt, look on eBay for the Wilderness Systems Pamlico and check the measurements to your Monarch. I think the 16T cover works, although a different one (145?) is also mentioned. The Kruger Sea Wind uses aluminum slats bent in a half-oval shape, inserted into pad eyes on the inside of the cockpit combing, to hold the spray skirt up so it doesn't pool water. I use up to 3 of them in front of the paddler. I don't use 'em in the back since typically there is a pack back there preventing the skirt from sagging. If I'm not in really rough stuff, I use two hoops and fold the 2' or so of skirt under the second hoop, keeping my lap area open.
Sails: If you like a sail, lots of Watertribe folks are fans of the PAS sails. They are pretty slick, a step up from the Spirit sails in that they are adjustable for different points of wind...I'm guessing the Spirit sails are pretty limited to downwind sailing. If you want to really have some fun, get a proper sail and the only one to buy is the Falcon Sail. Patrick Forester, the owner of the company, has outfitted many a kayak with his sails, and recently a Monarch. I installed one myself on my Sea Wind for the Watertribe Everglades Challenge race. There are many Watertribers loyal to FEKS sails as well, but the Falcon is gaining market share due to its superior design and construction (yes I'm a fan!).
Do me a favor, if you ever decide to sell your Monarch, or come across a Sawyer Loon or Kruger Sea Wind for sale, let me know. They are getting harder and harder to find, and only the Kruger is for sale new and for $7500! You polish your Monarch up and get it fixed up good, it would go for $1500. joewildlife at yahoo dot com Lots of folks ask me if I want to sell one of mine. I have a "dibbs list". We fans of the Loon are called "Loonatics", and fans of Krugers are called "Krugerheads". I'm both.
This is a pic of my Falcon sail deployed (and skirt installed) on my Sea Wind, during the 2013 Everglades Challenge.
Enjoy your boat and always feel free to ask for advice or suggestions...obviously several of us are happy to help!
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Joe, It may be the size of my feet, or that I replaced the crude pedals, but I can rest the area at my heels on the bracing pedals and move the rudder controls with my toes. It may also help that I can offset the rudder controls/bracing pedals by one notch, so most of the locked-in pressure is on the bracing pedals.
I guess my Monarch came with a Kruger style/shape rudder. It turns the Monarch quite well either paddling or sailing. I replicated that rudder to replace the massive one on the Optima.
I found the edges of the tube seat supports awfully close to the edges of the seat hanger slots in my Monarch, so I capped the tubes with a flanged plastic plug that matched the ID of the tube but had a wider flange that can’t slip out from the seat hanger slots. BTW – The seat hangers on older Monarchs were made of thinner material than on later models, and on a friend’s early model Monarch we added some G/flex and epoxy mix to help strengthen those hangers and slots..
I have the Monarch set up for both Spirit Sail on a utility thwart and a Pacific Action Sail on the bow. Unfortunately I have the large size PA sail (bought used/cheap) and the battens are so long they would be sticking out past the cockpit coming edge, right in paddle stroke range, if it wasn’t mounted far in the bow. I think those simple Vee sails perform better if they are mounted at about one third of the boat length back from the bow +/-.
The PA sail does work better than the simplier Spirit Sail when approaching a beam reach, but it takes up a lot of room when not in use, where the furled Spirit Sail furls to a 2” x 28” package.
I know the Falcon Sails have a very good reputation and outperform a simple downwind sail by miles. But I’m not racing, I’m a destination paddler. If I have to tack far off course into a headwind, especially when out in open water, I’d rather just use the paddle and labor into the wind on a more direct heading (wind ferry angle permitting).
I’ll be keeping an eye out for the next $100 Monarch. That will happen again….never.
I too have no problem bracing with the foot pegs and simultaneously using the OEM rudder controls.
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