You might be right Glenn! The place I bought it from had a variety of handle lengths with the same head, and they all had the same number attached to them, with just a variation on the handle.
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Length considerations for a canoe axe: function and safety
- Thread starter Glenn MacGrady
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Hi Canotrouge, That axe may be found at Traditional Woodworker and Bailey's on line. Sorry, but both are in the states.
It's interesting, I think that the German tradition of how a proper axe is made is a little different from the how we do it here. I bought my Biber axe from Traditional Woodworker and I like it fine but it is different to be sure.
I did a report on it in the "evaluation" section here. "Variations on a Forest Axe".
I believe that axe you're interested in is just about the same. The one over riding impression is that everything is built tougher, stronger, thicker and (alas) heavier.
Everything seems to be a compromise somewhere, but if I was doing some serious chopping that Biber would be the axe I'd pick.
Best Wishes, Rob
It's interesting, I think that the German tradition of how a proper axe is made is a little different from the how we do it here. I bought my Biber axe from Traditional Woodworker and I like it fine but it is different to be sure.
I did a report on it in the "evaluation" section here. "Variations on a Forest Axe".
I believe that axe you're interested in is just about the same. The one over riding impression is that everything is built tougher, stronger, thicker and (alas) heavier.
Everything seems to be a compromise somewhere, but if I was doing some serious chopping that Biber would be the axe I'd pick.
Best Wishes, Rob
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I agree with you Rob, and unfortunately not always better, but most of the time pricier!!
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
Here are some photos of my Council Tools Velvicut Bad Axe Boys Axe in it's unfinished condition.
The handle is two colored on one side. The other side is all light wood.
The head is not polished on the rear two-thirds but has forging marks. The edge came factory sharp enough to cut copy paper (but read after the photos for trees).
The handle is slim and feels very comfortable. It could be sanded a little smoother, but I'm pondering whether a little grittiness might not aid grip. I'll be finishing with some sort of oil product.
The grain is aligned almost perfectly parallel with the head, which is mounted squarely in the shaft. Here, you can see the two colors of wood.
The top of the shaft has a circular metal wedge.
The sheath seems sturdy and well made. Council advises storing the axe with the sheath off to prevent rust. I doubt I'll do that because I'd eventually lose the sheath. I'll just keep the head oiled with the food grade mineral oil I use on my knives.
The back side of the sheath has slots for a belt and a D-ring for attaching to packs or canoes.
All in all, this appears to be a high quality product to me, far superior to the axes I've seen in hardware and big box stores.
I tried chopping one standing dead tree but it appears to be made of vibranium, which is the metal that Captain America's shield is made of. In the Marvel Universe, vibranium can deflect strikes from the hammer of Thor and smashes by the Hulk. Hence, the 5160 steel axe just bounced off the vibranium tree. Well, not really, but when temperatures never go above 20 F for about six weeks, I guess that makes trees harder. So I won't do any real chopping for a while.
This has been an interesting axe buying journey, and I thank all who contributed to emptying my wallet. I hope future readers can get some informational and educational benefits from this thread.
The handle is two colored on one side. The other side is all light wood.
The head is not polished on the rear two-thirds but has forging marks. The edge came factory sharp enough to cut copy paper (but read after the photos for trees).
The handle is slim and feels very comfortable. It could be sanded a little smoother, but I'm pondering whether a little grittiness might not aid grip. I'll be finishing with some sort of oil product.
The grain is aligned almost perfectly parallel with the head, which is mounted squarely in the shaft. Here, you can see the two colors of wood.
The top of the shaft has a circular metal wedge.
The sheath seems sturdy and well made. Council advises storing the axe with the sheath off to prevent rust. I doubt I'll do that because I'd eventually lose the sheath. I'll just keep the head oiled with the food grade mineral oil I use on my knives.
The back side of the sheath has slots for a belt and a D-ring for attaching to packs or canoes.
All in all, this appears to be a high quality product to me, far superior to the axes I've seen in hardware and big box stores.
I tried chopping one standing dead tree but it appears to be made of vibranium, which is the metal that Captain America's shield is made of. In the Marvel Universe, vibranium can deflect strikes from the hammer of Thor and smashes by the Hulk. Hence, the 5160 steel axe just bounced off the vibranium tree. Well, not really, but when temperatures never go above 20 F for about six weeks, I guess that makes trees harder. So I won't do any real chopping for a while.
This has been an interesting axe buying journey, and I thank all who contributed to emptying my wallet. I hope future readers can get some informational and educational benefits from this thread.
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Glenn, you might have been trying to cut eastern hophornbeam (Ostrya Virginiana), also known as ironwood.
My axe's sheath is similar to yours. I cut the back out of it so I could use it to hammer tent stakes without removing the sheath (thereby reducing the chance of an axe cut to the head).
My axe's sheath is similar to yours. I cut the back out of it so I could use it to hammer tent stakes without removing the sheath (thereby reducing the chance of an axe cut to the head).
Nice Lumber Sexual axe handle Glenn.
Thanks. Did you notice I photographed my canoe axe dripping wet so it would remind us all of my 1957 bow paddler after a swim.
It all makes sense now.
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Well Glenn, Anybody who has a bow paddler like that needs no advice from me!
But for anybody else: the leather of the axe sheath is porous and if wet will hold moisture next to the axe resulting in rust. I oil mine with Huberd's Shoe Grease, set the sheath somewhere it's warm and let the grease sink in. The can says that it's made from pine tar and bee's wax. I know it preserves leather and so far no little animal has tried to chew on the leather to get to the grease.
Any of my tools made of steel, when I'm not going to use them for a time, I coat the surface with Johnson Paste Car Wax. The old fashion kind of stuff. Just butter it on with a finger tip and let it dry.
Don't know about that "food grade mineral oil" if it will give a coating that will be retained on the steel. I know that the wax will stay put.
When a person comes to preserve the wood handle, pay especial attention to the end grain. You really don't want that end grain sucking up liquid water and swelling. Lately I've been using Watco and it's seems to be doing a good job.
The manufactures advice to store the axe with the sheath off is just wrong headed in my opinion. It would be so easy for someone who was looking in the storage area to stumble on the axe and get cut, and anyways other gear could get cut as well.
The only down side to that Johnson's wax that I know of is you need to clean it off before you sharpen your axe. The wax will gum up the surface of what ever you are using to sharpen with.
That's what I think anyway.......
Rob
But for anybody else: the leather of the axe sheath is porous and if wet will hold moisture next to the axe resulting in rust. I oil mine with Huberd's Shoe Grease, set the sheath somewhere it's warm and let the grease sink in. The can says that it's made from pine tar and bee's wax. I know it preserves leather and so far no little animal has tried to chew on the leather to get to the grease.
Any of my tools made of steel, when I'm not going to use them for a time, I coat the surface with Johnson Paste Car Wax. The old fashion kind of stuff. Just butter it on with a finger tip and let it dry.
Don't know about that "food grade mineral oil" if it will give a coating that will be retained on the steel. I know that the wax will stay put.
When a person comes to preserve the wood handle, pay especial attention to the end grain. You really don't want that end grain sucking up liquid water and swelling. Lately I've been using Watco and it's seems to be doing a good job.
The manufactures advice to store the axe with the sheath off is just wrong headed in my opinion. It would be so easy for someone who was looking in the storage area to stumble on the axe and get cut, and anyways other gear could get cut as well.
The only down side to that Johnson's wax that I know of is you need to clean it off before you sharpen your axe. The wax will gum up the surface of what ever you are using to sharpen with.
That's what I think anyway.......
Rob
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