How do you make a fire when it's wet?

[Paddlinhal]

You folks have pretty much covered it. The only tip I might add is more of an anecdote. Once my pal was the self-designated fire starter. We arrived in camp cold and wet under a heavy rain. In my book, this is exactly when you need a fire. He was having little luck until I came across a pile of culch that someone had raked into a pile from around the fire ring. I flipped it over and found tons of dry tinder and kindling!

 

[Bob B.]

Like everyone, birch bark is a staple. Also, I am with Yellowcanoe, balsam blisters make great mini torches, and use dead twigs on balsam under the living branches even when soaked, as a great kindling nest. Cedar inner bark is stringy,dry, and oily - it makes a terrific birds nest to start a fire. Once I get a fire going in miserable conditions, I start a small candle . If my young fire goes out, I can start again with the candle ( I do not use a lighter or matches ). My twig stove ( solo stove) is awesome as it breathes so well making it easier to start a fire, especially when I really need one.

Bob.

 

[scoutergriz]

Resin from dead coniferous branches tend to "leak down" and collect in crotches - what I've come to know as fat wood. Plenty of that stuff along with the regular players - the lightest shavings of cedar bark being one. Fallen pine cones are great for a quick boost, too.

an excellent source of "fatwood" is old rotted conifer tree stumps, especially fire killed ones, the sap tends to collect most near the base and the heat of the fire seems to make that sap penetrate the pores of the heartwood, ensuring that the wood is full of resin.
That resin-soaked wood will even burn hot after several days of rain, and is great to start or maintain a fire for hours, even in thunderstorms.

 

[ErktheRed]

Resin from dead coniferous branches tend to "leak down" and collect in crotches - what I've come to know as fat wood. Plenty of that stuff along with the regular players - the lightest shavings of cedar bark being one. Fallen pine cones are great for a quick boost, too.

Like scratchypants says and a few other say, fat wood. Mix that with a couple small pieces of old dead birch bark, you’ll have a fire in no time. Drying out other pieces, preferably pre split, next to the heat. Boom. Bang. POW!

 

[deerfly]

no birch bark around these latitudes, but I generally have some vaseline soaked cotton balls in those little 2" x 3" zip lock bags you get a wally world 100 for a dollar or something along with a fire steel. You only need a tiny piece of the cotton stretched out a bit to get some air in between the fibers and gel and it will light usually on the first scratch off the steel, even if a little damp. With that its a matter of scrounging around to find anything that is mostly dry. In the Fl swamps I frequent there are usually enough dead and dried saw palmetto fronds under the green ones above that remain fairly dry in all but the worst down pours. You can generally tear or break those into small enough pieces to get a flame. The stems of the fronds can be shaved with a knife to increase the tinder size a bit until there is enough flame to burn the dried stems whole and then add some bigger stuff like dead water oak twigs and what not. As mentioned splitting dead wood and getting shavings from the core will produce longer lasting and hotter tinder to get the bigger splits going too. Having the vaseline and cotton ball on hand makes it a lot easier than just a fire steel, especially in wet conditions.

 

[sweeper]

When paddling the Allagash with a group we bring out the big gun

 

[deerfly]

lol, if the Indians had propane torches they would have used them too...

 

[Bothwell Voyageur]

If the native peoples had had propane torches they probably wouldn't have taken any s*t from white folks.

A lot of folk have mentioned cotton wool balls. Try the pads. Smear Vaseline on one side then fold over to make a napalm perogie! A lot cleaner to handle if you don't put too much on.

 

[2AxeMax]

It may alredy have been suggested or posted but splitting wet wood open can usually provide some dry kindling for a fire. Most wet wood, except for water logged, is usually only wet for an inch or two from the surface or bark. Stripping off some of the bark will give an idication as to how wet or soaked the tree branch of a dead tree or downed tree may be. I always pack a small forest type axe (Mine is a Gransforsbruk) and a pocket wire/chain saw. A good knife of 4 to 6 inches blade length can also be used to "baton" wood open/split. Preferusing my axe tho as a cheap knife may break. I usually use snags and fallen tree branches no thicker than my wrist or forearm and had no problem getting to the "dry" stuff near the center. I also pack some large heavy duty trash/leaf bags to wrap dry wood with and prevent it from getting wet.

 

[LanceR]

I use most of the ideas already discussed although now living in North Carolina things like birch bark, fir, hemlock, spruce etc simply aren't available. But cedar and grape bark, dried pine sap, fatwood etc are.

As one ascends each 1000 feet the flora change is roughly equivalent to going 200 miles northward. In the mountains of western North Carolina and southwestern Virginia one sees much of the flora of the northern US states from Wisconsin to Maine and that of southern Ontario and Quebec so there one will find hemlock, fir etc. But not here in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains at only 1300 feet.

I carry tinder and occasionally kindling based on the anticipated weather and conditions. A few Vaseline saturated cotton balls in a 35mm film canister is pretty much a staple as is a stick or to of fatwood. If I'm passing through an area with pine trees I keep an eye out for dried pine sap. I usually have a few wads of cedar or grape bark along, too.

When backpacking and approaching well used campsites I start selecting and toting firewood on the approach and do the same if I have to leave camp for fresh water. And like others my canoe or kayak have been known to look like a brush pile by the time I hit camp.

I will confess that I do most of my cooking on liquid fueled stoves and, lately, either a Solo Stove Campfire or a Firebox G5 twig stove. Often the only time on a trip when I cook in an open fire is when using a camp Dutch oven or reflector oven. I have a couple of 11" cold handle pans that I got out two nights ago and promised myself that I'd start using them more often. And I have at least ten cast iron skillets of various styles and sizes so we'll see how much more cooking with fire I do this winter. I know I'll have to make a conscious decision to do that our I'll back-slide and reach for the MSR Whisperlite......

Lately, as I've been sewing more, I've tinkered with bits of scrap 18 ounce canvas saturated with candle wax or Vaseline. Both burn for a looong time but I think the nod goes to the wax saturated canvas just because it's so much less messy.

For ignition I carry a strike anywhere matches, a lighter and combination ferrocerium rod (AKA ferro rod) that has a magnesium bar and padauk wood handle. A few little curls of the magnesium or the padauk will get things going even with damp tinder.

Lance

 

[ppine]

In the West the warm weather is usually not that wet. No birch bark. We can often find tree canopies shading dead lower branches. Sometimes splitting is required to find anything dry. I carry a candle or some fire starter now. I like fat wood.

 

[scoutergriz]

I use what's at hand, whether it's cattail fluff, birch bark flutters, or cedar bark. Wet birch and cedar bark will still burn and like Yellow canoe says, you can almost always find some firs around (smaller ones are best) with sap- laden blisters full of turpentine for a booster.

 

[Boreal Birch]

I watched a Kobuk River Eskimo Elder start a fire one cold, wet, rainy, spitting snow day. He used the fuel tank and generator from his old white gas Coleman two burner stove. Pumped up the tank, opened the valve, quickly lit the tip of the generator. Then used it like a blow torch to set fire to some fairly wet wood. I thought I should try that a few times so I could get some practice. I seldom travel by canoe with a suitcase type Coleman Stove, but do when on car camping road trips. When I asked my Kobuk friend if he had other ways to get a fire going in wet weather, he smiled and told me to just use gas. ”Like the Boy Scout method of just slopping boat gas on the fire?” “No” he said “like this”, then he cut a aluminum can in half, poured a inch or so of boat gas into the bottom half of the can, set it in the another fire place, put fire making materials over it, then lit the gas in the can. It just started burning like a fat candle, drying out and setting fire to the wood. Not a big Whoosh like pouring gas on a pile of damp wood, then throwing a match onto it. I use this method when conditions warrant. Instead of a aluminum can I use a brass alcohol stove from my cook kit. Just light it, then put it under a ready to light, laid fire. It will soon dry out semi wet wood, then igniting it. After the fire takes hold you will have to fish out your alcohol stove.

 

[alsg]

I watched a Kobuk River Eskimo Elder start a fire one cold, wet, rainy, spitting snow day. He used the fuel tank and generator from his old white gas Coleman two burner stove. Pumped up the tank, opened the valve, quickly lit the tip of the generator. Then used it like a blow torch to set fire to some fairly wet wood. I thought I should try that a few times so I could get some practice. I seldom travel by canoe with a suitcase type Coleman Stove, but do when on car camping road trips. When I asked my Kobuk friend if he had other ways to get a fire going in wet weather, he smiled and told me to just use gas. ”Like the Boy Scout method of just slopping boat gas on the fire?” “No” he said “like this”, then he cut a aluminum can in half, poured a inch or so of boat gas into the bottom half of the can, set it in the another fire place, put fire making materials over it, then lit the gas in the can. It just started burning like a fat candle, drying out and setting fire to the wood. Not a big Whoosh like pouring gas on a pile of damp wood, then throwing a match onto it. I use this method when conditions warrant. Instead of a aluminum can I use a brass alcohol stove from my cook kit. Just light it, then put it under a ready to light, laid fire. It will soon dry out semi wet wood, then igniting it. After the fire takes hold you will have to fish out your alcohol stove.

Very practical Eskimo wisdom. What it lacks in aesthetics and style points is more than made up for in terms of speed and efficiency. Getting the job done is ultimately more important than how it is done.

 

[scoutergriz]

I watched a Kobuk River Eskimo Elder start a fire one cold, wet, rainy, spitting snow day. He used the fuel tank and generator from his old white gas Coleman two burner stove. Pumped up the tank, opened the valve, quickly lit the tip of the generator. Then used it like a blow torch to set fire to some fairly wet wood.

that is extremely dangerous, I've seen more than one case where the flame tracked back and caused the tank to explode, sending the person to the burn ward...

 

[jdeerfoot]

In a real pinch I smear a little chain saw bar oil on the sticks and let it soak in for a few minutes. Last resort is a little squirt of the gas mix. Doesn't everyone pack such supplies?

As I recall, in the scouts we would occasionally use what was called “scout water” otherwise known as white gas.

 

[lowangle al]

The best thing to do is practice. If it's wet try getting a fire going without having to resort to your firestarter. That's been my plan and I can't remember having to resort to anything from my pack.

Earlier this year I was on a hike back in Pa. after a very thorough drenching. Since I hadn't tripped back East in a long time and had a trip coming up I decided to get a fire going to see I could do it with the material I could find. No problem. Funny thing, every fire I made on that trip I used a firestarter, something I never did in Ak. My thinking was that I was lazy and had nothing to prove. Good tinder and kindling seemed to be far more prevalent up North than it is down here.

 

[lowangle al]

As I recall, in the scouts we would occasionally use what was called “scout water” otherwise known as white gas.

Back when Zippo lighters were popular we used lighter fluid and called it "boy scout fluid"

 

[yellowcanoe]

You watch Cliff Jacobsen build a base for a fire for his one match fire and it starts raining and the fire does not happen.. He took the ribbing well. This at Maine Canoe Symposium.
Me I dig sticks into balsam blisters.

 

[Seeker]

The biggest "trick" I have is to take my time and do it right.... normal fire prep involves double handfuls each of pencil-lead, pencil, thumb, and wrist-sized wood. Rainy prep should be double that, triple if you have time.

I try to acquire a good stash of birchbark, and once you get it going, it can help dry your other "tinder", which I usually get in the form of spruce twigs and branches... these are often damp when everything else is wet, but they still burn well, and better than most other damp tinders. Sometimes you can cut the bark off and it's drier underneath. For the next bigger wood, 'thumb sized", this is where split wood is handy, and I try really hard to find something in the way of a dead maple (I mentioned in an earlier post preferring to set up under a plowpoint tarp, and putting up a few days worth of wood on the first afternoon. This pays off in that you seldom have to start a fire in the rain that way. But I understand that you still need to be able to do it well.)

A sheet of birchbark held up over two (or even 1) stakes to provide rain cover will help, as will starting the tinder on a sheet of bark or a split piece of wood to keep it up off the wet ground. A sit pad works too, but you have to be careful not to melt it... a sit pad also works well to fan your young fire.

Fatwood (lighter pine, whatever you want to call it) is also excellent as a tinder. now that I'm back north, I tend to use birchbark, but down south, or where pine is prevalent, fatwood is solid turpentine and burns well. I used to lay a piece of newspaper in the bottom of my table saw dust catcher. Then i'd run a couple pieces of fatwood through, collecting the dust. I'd carry it in a mini Altoids Tin, the little 1.5" x 2.5" kind, and it would start with the scrape of a firesteel. Not a huge firesteel fan though, because a flame will start coarser/worse tinder. Using one is a skill worth learning, but I prefer my Bics or matches.

The driest wood is found under pines, on the lee side of the weather, next to cliffs or rocks that shielded it from rain, and inside broken trees/limbs. Sometimes all you have to do is scrape off the wet bark. Other times, you have to look harder, and still other times, you have no choice but to make shavings and fuzz sticks.

A heavy-duty ziplock bag is invaluable for collecting tinder and keeping it dry. You can leave the top open and tuck it into your shirt for safety.

For cheats, which I have no compunction doing when it's cold and I'm wet, I carry three very useful tools:

• One is a Bic lighter lanyarded to my left pocket... there is nothing like it, and cheaper variants are not acceptable. I swear by them (and actually carry several, large and small) in my repair kit, kitchen set, and pockets. I found one buried in a tank track mark in a military training area once... so long buried that it was rusty... but it worked after I cleaned it up. Anyway, I'm a big fan.
• Second is the fuel from whatever stove I'm carrying. I always have a small container of alcohol, if not gasoline, and sometimes butane, and these can help when nature is not cooperating. A splash of this on the tinder pile sometimes saves the day.
• Third, I always carry something fire-starterish, and sometimes more than one, depending on my gear set... there is at least 1 birthday candle in my repair kit. I have a piece or two of waxed jute twine about 2-3" long in my match container, which usually rides in a pocket. I usually have a couple waxed and sawdust-filled egg carton sections in the bottom of my food bag. And I have a tea light candle in the pocket of one of my anoraks (along with a lighter and space blanket, for a Palmer Furnace) if I'm wearing that. The best of the lot is the egg carton sections, which burn for about 5 minutes, and sometimes you need every bit of that to dry out the tinder above it.

Fire lay is important too... I've discovered that a teepee style fire is far superior in rain to a log cabin style... there's just something about the shape of that kind of 'firebox' that holds heat in, protects the center from the rain, and somehow works better.