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Great Slave Lake

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On our second day driving home from Yellowknife, the van suddenly lost power, and died 100 km (62 miles) south of High Level, Alberta. It had been a hot day, 36 degrees C, 97 degrees F. We were towed back to High Level, where Peter, the mechanic said that Fords are known for stalling out in hot weather because of bad low pressure fuel pumps. With a new fuel pump two days later, we reached home two days after that, and our Great Slave Lake canoeing adventure was suddenly over.

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Would this bed our last northern canoe trip? I certainly hoped not. But I will soon be 71,and last November we adopted a rescue Siberian husky who had been abandoned at a nearby farm. At first he was terrified of all strangers, and hid under a chair, trembling, whenever they were in the house. He is better now, but we are reluctant to leave him for an extended period. I often think of our time on Great Slave Lake, when we struggled with wind and waves; our encounters with angry gulls and a too curious bear; the grandeur of the Canadian Shield; the satisfaction of morning bannock cooked over a glowing campfire; the serene moments of canoeing across perfectly still water; the comfort of resting and snacking on gorp at the end of a successful paddling day; the pleasure of paddling with the loons. I long to go again.
 
Thanks for hanging in there and working out the posting problems, there is a whole canoe tripping community benefitting from this.

Those big seas and inhospitable shorelines had me nervous. The universal thought "When a calm day comes it makes everything worthwhile."
I hope you get back there too.
 
Thanks to everyone who commented on my story. It made the frustration worthwhile. I t might be nice if there were some explicit instructions on this site for posting what is essentially a slide show. It seems that uploading large images requires going through a hosted site like Flickr. Then it took me a while to learn how to upload from Flicker. And then the ongoing lessons that I could not use punctuation marks like apostrophes, quotation marks and hyphens in the caption.

i enjoy sharing my images and stories, and have previous slide shows on the South Nahanni River, the Coppermine, the Thelon, the Seal and the Snowdrift Rivers in northern Canada. These are all 120 to 140 images long. They will have to wait until a winter blizzard.
 
Whoa! Easy with the blizzard talk! ha. But I know what you mean. I couldn't help with the posting because I do things differently; not better, just different. I type directly into the blah blah box and leave spaces where I will later insert images directly from my desktop which started off in my photo files. Not ideal but it works for me. Although I don't run into punctuation issues, doing it my way brings a different set of challenges and bad language. It will be another 10 months at least before I try to remember how I managed this to do another TR of my own. Like I say I'm glad you worked yours out. After this Great Slave trip report you have me eager for a good 'ol blizzard. A 40 day blow could be perfect.
 
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There hasn't been a set way of posting pictures on the site that I know of. Seems everybody has a different way of doing that. I either use my blog or Picasa, yes I still use that! Some folks use Flickr others use other services. I do know that the puncuation stuff from the last update is problematic and I am hoping when I do the next update that will get fixed (only to have something else break!) But like Odyssey that doesn't happen when you use the forum, this box where I'm typing now, and not cut and paste from something like Word or Open Office. I believe it is something screwed up in the code which from working in IT happens frequently but that is not my strong suit, programming, I do mostly hardware.

With that said I am looking for an IT person who is familiar with VBulletin which the software the site uses and doesn't charge ungodly hourly fees. Hopefully I can find someone more regional then the Phillipines.

I'm glad you figured it out. I really enjoyed the write up and all the pictures! Thanks for hanging in there.

dougd
 
That was an awesome report! Something many of us do is write our whole report using word or some other text program. We paste the links from flikr or imugr directly into the report, then copy the whole thing and paste it all at once on to the website.

Hope to see more of your adventures!
 
Thanks, Memaquay. In fact, that's what I did originally for this TR, which is an abridged version of an ebook that I prepared with pages, which includes not only images, but also interactive topo maps that the reader can zoom in on. I then uploaded the entire file (37 mb) to my drive.google account. The upload took less than a minute. Those who might want to read it, then simply copy the link into their browser, download the PDF file, which is then saved in iBooks or some other ebook reader. That process takes less than two minutes.
 
Really nice report! Loved that you included the before and after problems. Thanks for posting.
 
Great trip report and photos. Native flora ID is always interesting to me.

I too struggled with how to post photos and the good people here showed me the way. The punctuation avoidance still takes practice, and that may be resolved soon.

We had recently purchased a 16 foot Wenonah Prospector canoe to replace our 16 foot Mad River Explorer. The Wenonah was actually a smidge shorter that the Explorer, and a little more rockered. Gear did not fit as well or as easily. Our food bucket did not fit in front of the bow seat. Plus the new and bigger tent no longer fit in the top of our canvass pack, and would not squeeze between the hulls. We had been having trouble getting everything to fit so that the spray deck lay flat. We had finally figured out where everything should go, and took this picture to remind ourselves for the next trip.

3 inches shorter, but with much sharper stems, which somehow does not compensate for the Wenonah Prospector being a little wider at the gunwales and a little deeper than the Explorer. I am impressed that you managed to fit it all in the Wenonah with spray cover (nice cover too, Northwater?)

I often paddle a soloized and spray covered Penobscot 16 on long trips and it ends up gunwale-full of gear with just me aboard. I usually test pack the canoe at home when I am carrying a full gear load, and make a sketch of where each dry bag and barrel fits best. By the time I have driven 2000 miles (or even 200 miles) I will have forgotten that home tested gear layout and just refer to my sketch at first launch.

After I have packed and repacked, and occasionally rearranged the gear load a couple times along the way I do not need the sketch, but I save it for next trip, and have kept those sketches for a variety of canoes and gear loads, so packing for another trip is easier.

(Those sketches, while valuable, are about to become obsolete; I have been making DIY custom tapered dry bags for both the decked canoe and now for the stems of open solo canoes, or even just stern of a tandem)

Ten minutes later we put back on the water. As we approached the backward-curving point in deep waves, rollers crashed off the point back toward us, causing the canoe to pitch, bow to stern. The canoe also wallowed from side to side between the crests and the troughs of the waves. We had cleared the point, and it was time to turn. I was paddling on the left, on the windward side, doing forward strokes alternated with strong sweeps. This should have turned the boat, But the canoe kept going straight, farther away from, and beyond the point. I can’t get the boat to turn, Kathleen.

What do you want me to do?

Nothing.

Our new arrangement of gear was not perfect, and we were slightly bow heavy. This caused the stern to lift just a little bit out of the water. The wind, on the left, caught the stern like a weather vane, pushing it toward shore, but pivoting the bow of the canoe out from the point toward open water and larger, breaking waves.

Again I told Kathleen that I was having trouble turning the canoe.

Again, What do you want me to do?

Nothing. I just wanted to tell you.

In fact, I didn’t want her to do anything differently. She was putting in good forward strokes that I could anticipate. I didn’t want her to do something that would add more uncertainty about my own strokes.

Now I was sterning and steering based mostly on reaction. Pitching. Wallowing. Rolling. I struggled to control the angle and direction of the canoe. I sometimes felt tempted to put in a bracing stroke when I felt that the canoe might roll over in one of the deep troughs. That would have stalled the canoe, though, relinquishing control to the wind and waves. I could have also yelled out change sides. Kathleen would then be paddling on the left, and I would be paddling on the right. I could then put in J strokes or River Js, which would more easily turn the boat toward the point than my current combination of sweeps and forward strokes. Switching sides, though, meant that both our paddles would momentarily be out of the water. I did not want that. Not even for only a second. We needed to maintain momentum.

Eventually I finally managed to turn the canoe, and the waves thrust us past the backward-curving point, where we easily slipped into the lee water behind. We got out to rest. I did not enjoy that at all, and had actually been worried that we might have capsized. There would not have been any good outcomes to a capsize.

I appreciated the description of that struggle. The hardest time I have ever had controlling a canoe was, drumroll, tandem in a Wenonah Prospector. Nothing wrong with that canoe, conditions were just beyond challenging, and would have see us ashore and making camp in any other situation. Not an option.

Tandem with an experienced bowman, lightly loaded and a little bow light, on a day long explore from camp. A fierce wind and long fetch waves kicked up and our only choice of return route took us across multiple widely embayed shorelines. Straight across would have been more direct, but the best we could manage was (try) to run diagonal to the wind down each embayment and then fight our way back out, and do it all over again around the next point.

We had the same pitching, rolling and wallowing, and even with a strong bowman at my command we were on the knife edge of control. We had a similar What do you want me to do? Nothing, just keep paddling hard conversation, and my bowman had no idea how much effort it took in the stern to keep us upright. At times I was doing more bracing and massive correction sweeps than paddling, and if he let up on forward stroke effort we were screwed (he let up at a couple inopportune times, causing me to shout No, heck no! Keep paddling hard dammit.

I did not enjoy it all either.

A few random observations.

Our 2001 Ford van only has 118,000 miles on it but the brake line rusted out last year (lots of salted road winter trip to paddle down south). It is something Ford E150s are noted for.

I agree absolutely about a non-squatty toilet and we use something similar when digging catholes, and a pack it out wag bag system with the same Reliance toilet seat where required. A trowel in hard ground was never my favorite tool, and I have come to appreciate this little True Temper shovel; the blade size is perfect for digging a small cat hole.

https://www.jcpenney.com/p/true-temper-ksm-real-tools-for-kids-shovel/ppr5007706896?pTmplType=regular&country=US&currency=USD&selectedSKUId=62870770018&selectedLotId=6287077&fromBag=true&quantity=1&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=shovels&utm_content=62870770018&cid=cse%7Cgoogle%7C004%20-%20home%20furn%20leisure%7Cshovels_62870770018&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI276T_tyX3QIV0kwNCh1BEQqBEAQYAiABEgIGFfD_BwE&kwid=productads-adid^230165333234-device^c-plaid^334559805599-sku^62870770018-adType^PLA

heck yes I want a chair. I am pretty sure my people stopped squatting around the campfire back when we were building the Maes Howe on Orkney.

No tarp? ?Que pasa con eso (no apostrophe in Spanish)

Kudos to Kathleen for having a real book. A real thick book. Me too, always, and it better be good enough to reread. But on nice days I would be reposed in a little nylon day hammock strung between trees. A little nylon day hammock may be my favorite 1 lb, size of a softball piece of gear that sets up in literal seconds.

https://www.rei.com/product/754769/eno-singlenest-hammock

Lastly, the gear reflective question I am given to asking folks after long or remote trips. The answers are often illuminating for fellow trippers.

What worked well?
What, if anything, did not, or not to your expections?
What would you replace, alter or take differently?
 
Thanks for your comments, Mike. You might be interested to know that I did not want to replace my Mad River Explorer. We have owned two, and I still think it's a great all round boat. Our Explorers were Royalex (plastic) with wooden gunwales. As you know, plastic and wood expand and contract at different rates in cold weather. If one lives in a cold climate, one is supposed to loosen the gunwale screws during winter. We did not need to do this when we lived on the coast, near Vancouver, B.C. We moved to Saskatchewan in 2008, and I loosened the screws for the first two winters. At the beginning of the third winter, I put the Explorer in the shed, and said to myself that I would loosen the screws later. I forgot. In the spring, when I opened the shed, I saw the horrific sight of the Explorer with 37 cracks all the way through the hull. I repaired the canoe with cold cure and kevlar cloth (or was it fibre glass cloth? I do not remember) on the inside and the outside. I believe it was just as strong as ever. Kathleen said she did not trust it (or me?). We had to get a new canoe. I called the main canoe store in Saskatchewan, and was told they do not carry Mad River canoes anymore. So I bought the Wenonah, with plastic gunwales. No need to worry anymore.

We have packed the Explorer hundreds of times. We know where the gear goes. Trial packing the gear for Great Slave Lake was frustrating, as the gear did not fit nicely in the Prospector. I convinced Kathleen that we should take the Explorer. There would be no rapids, I said. Not to worry. She agreed. We had a home made coated nylon spray deck for the Explorer. I had installed stainless steel snaps in the spray deck, that snapped into the female portion screwed into the underpart of the wooden gunwale. I got the nylon spray deck out, and discovered that the stainless steel snaps were green with corrosion, and were falling out of the spray deck. Probably corrosion from the salt air when we lived on the coast. In our small, rural town, it was not possible to get new stainless steel snaps, which we needed in two days.

So, back to the Prospector. And yes, it was a North Water spray deck that laces into the hull. It has some advantages, in that the centre zips open for easier access to gear. Relative to our coated nylon spray deck, however, it was much heavier. So, even though it was possible to portage the canoe without removing the spray deck completely, because it could zip open in the middle, I found the extra weight to be much more challenging to throw the canoe up onto my shoulders. And, to remove the North Water added just more bulk and weight for the portage compared to the coated nylon deck.

No, we did not have a tarp for the Reliance toilet. There were only two of us. A tarp for privacy was not necessary, because we knew when the toilet was occupied.

We have been tripping since 1990. We know our gear. And, in fact we had new gear for this trip. The new tent was roomier, which was nice. But it was bigger and heavier. Not so nice for packing or for potential portages. We loved the new Helinox ground chairs. I even use mine at home to sit in front of the fire or TV. For this trip we bought one of those 45 l blue barrels. I still prefer our canvass, Duluth style packs, because they get smaller as food is used up. The blue barrel stays the same size, even if it is empty. We used to have three canvass packs, but one wore out. I tried to buy another one online, but none were available of the same capacity. Maybe they do not make them anymore. We did not have to portage on this trip, so I do not know how comfortable it would be to portage the blue barrel. The canvass packs had side pockets for our paddles, around which we could hang the nylon spray deck. I do not think the blue barrel would be as efficient. But I could be wrong.

For our next trip, I am looking to buy a smaller tripod. Ours is an excellent, but hefty Manfrotto. It is a great tripod, but a slimmer, more collapsable tripod would make it easier to get the spray deck to lie down flat. I like the look of a neat, trim canoe.
 
Despite not bringing my axe much anymore I do wish my canvas packs had that side pocket and straps as you see on the Northwoods. Always nice to have options, otherwise the axe gets slipped inside protected head up. Drain holes in the pocket are another nice feature I've seen somewhere.

Pitt, I think I saw both open fires and butane canister (I think?) for your meal prep. Can you walk me through your preferences? You didn't appear to be short of wood supply but it sure looked windy at times.
I am (we are) giving that Reliance toilet some serious thought. Never seen that before.
Soft packs vs solid barrels is a discussion/debate that is one of those subjective riddles wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma thingys, but I too hate wasted packing space. As the food barrel empties some items are transferred into it from packs which can be cinched smaller. Not a great solution but I'm still working on it.
Given the size and depth and latitude of Great Slave I expect the water temperature was/is always a concern, but I don't know. Can it be somewhat (unintentionally) swimmable? Is it wetsuit country?
 
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Thanks for the link, Memaquay. Do not know if I came across these packs when I was searching on the internet. I think the Northwoods would have been similar to our packs, shown here as we prepare to portage around Bloody Falls on the Coppermine River, way back in 1995. In case you do not recognize her, that is Kathleen in the foreground.

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Thanks for your comments, Odyssey. Here is Kathleen portaging on the Snowdrift River. She looks happy, but I asked her to smile for the camera. Would be good to have a comparison picture with her portaging the blue barrel. I suggested in a previous post that the blue barrel was 45 l. I was wrong. It is 60 l, about 3,600 cubic inches. The large North Woods pack is 4,200 cubic inches, so it likely would have been what I was looking for. Too late now, though. I did, as you have, start loading gear from the packs to the barrel, as food disappeared from the barrel. We grew to like the barrel.

We never take an axe or a saw anymore. Not really necessary. If the wood is too long, I just work it into the fire as needed. Yes, I do prefer wood fires. I also take a Coleman Peak 1 stove for those days when we are in a hurry, or where wood is not available. The stove uses white gas. Approximately one third of a litre is sufficient for an entire day.

On our northern trips, water temperature likely averages around seven degrees C, about 45 degrees F. That is cold enough where you do not want to go on a long swim. We took wet suits on our first northern trip, on the South Nahanni River, thinking it was possible we could capsize in the Rock Gardens. We did not, and the wetsuits were hot. Very bulky, and required a good rinsing after the first day. We never wore them again, and have never taken them again. Our approach to dealing with cold water is that we never capsize. I know that sounds like a lot of hubris, but it is true. We never capsize on a wilderness trip. It is not appropriate. I have talked to people who laugh about their capsizes on far northern trips. It is no laughing matter, in my opinion. I have seen those Bill Mason videos where he is canoeing in shorts, and swimming, in Ontario. He would not be doing that in rivers like the Coppermine, Thelon, or on Great Slave Lake, other than to show how tough he is. As I like to tell people, Kathleen an I are competent paddlers, not elite, but competent. We would not capsize unless it was in a difficult, long rapid. In cold water, we would not likely get to shore before before we succumbed to tiredness, or the beginning stages of hypothermia. I am sure you have heard of the Moffat canoe trip in the 1960s, where Moffat died of hypothermia after capsizing in the Dubawnt River.
 
We have packed the Explorer hundreds of times. We know where the gear goes. Trial packing the gear for Great Slave Lake was frustrating, as the gear did not fit nicely in the Prospector.

Each initial launch might be a new trial of trim errors for me. The barrel, dry bag and gear choices are very different between packing a decked canoe like the Monarch and a soloized tandem like the Penobscot. Add three more boats on family trips and arrrgghhhh.

The gear selection can be quite different as well; the load (with potable water) for a tidal trip is different from an Adirondacks trip from a western river where I need a portable wag bag toilet system. Same for off season trips where I want winter clothes and a 0 degree sleeping bag. Even the tent and tarp selection is different depending on the place (blazing sun vs blowing dust vs cold off season winds).

No, we did not have a tarp for the Reliance toilet. There were only two of us. A tarp for privacy was not necessary, because we knew when the toilet was occupied.

I did not mean a tarp for the toilet. For rainy nature calls I just use a (handy for many things) golf umbrella. For areas where a portable pack it out toilet is required there is a tradition of grin and bare it while seated in some scenic view spot.

I was thinking a rain/sun/wind shelter tarp for kitchen & living room outside the tent. I do like the size, weight and ridgeline stuff bag packability of a between trees silnylon tarp, or the windproof two-pole aspect of a parawing with true catenary cuts where trees are rare (and wind is not).

For this trip we bought one of those 45 l blue barrels
We did not have to portage on this trip, so I do not know how comfortable it would be to portage the blue barrel.

I did not know harnesses were made for 45L barrels aside from custom work. In fact I did not even know there were 45L barrels until I tested the mistaken volume of ours. We have a (not very nice) harness on our 60L barrel, an old Kondos Outdoors harness, which is better than nothing but not by much. That Kondos harness has almost no back padding and leaves the rigid cylinder of a (heavy) 60L barrel uncomfortably digging against my already screwed up spine. It is too dang big to carry far by hand, so ouch dammit.

Ostrom once made barrel harnesses that seemed the best of the lot, and I believe someone is now making a less costly (still comfortable?) version of that design. Cooke Custom Sewing makes barrel packs, but I did not pay that much for all of our barrels put together.

When I find a used mil-spec ALICE frame at a reasonable cost I might modify it to hold a barrel. Or not, I have come to really appreciate the functionality of our blue barrel folding tabletops and I am not sure one of those would work with the barrel on an ALICE pack frame. The kevlar foam board backgammon tabletop weighs just over 1 lb, and even the quarter inch birch checkerboard versions are in the 2 lb range.

http://www.canoetripping.net/forums.../69483-​blue-barrel-folding-tabletop-mark-v

easier to get the spray deck to lie down flat. I like the look of a neat, trim canoe.

Me too, but maybe a good thing that you had a Northwater cover with that gear load. We have Cooke Custom Sewing covers on a couple canoes. Those are attached via snap rivets and do not allow for much of a gear pile above the gunwales, which partially explains why even in a soloized tandem my spray covered canoe the gear is often Tetris packed with everything packed below gunwale level. No other choice.

Speaking of neat, trim canoes:

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user...JrL0lNR181MjkxX3pwc2QxNGViYjUwLmpwZw==/?ref=1

Just remembering the sight of those guys makes me laugh.
 
More great photos, thanks Pitt. Yes, that counts as an end of a bugger of a fun portage smile. A smile nonetheless.
I don't find barrels terribly uncomfortable, just terribly heavy at times. But I love the durability waterproofness odour containment character of them. When I carry them I merely repeat my mantra "No point in complaining 'cause this makes perfect sense."
And I relate in my own insignificant way about "Capsizing is not an option. Period. So we can forget about that and just keep our heads and keep paddling."
Peak 1 stove. I wondered what camp stove fuel restrictions there are for fly-in trips nowadays, if any. I guess if you're running supplies to camps and communities it stands to reason fuel is a big part of that.
I had reservations a week and a half ago when I saw our daughter's boyfriend carrying my canvas pack by it's tumpline like it were a shoulder bag heading out the door, but they were nearly loaded up and ready for departure for their canoe trip so I didn't want to stop them for a "Take care of my stuff" lecture. I almost regretted telling them not to worry if stuff breaks (I was thinking about the plastic bowls) and that all equipment can be replaced (I was still thinking about the plastic bowls). Sure enough this afternoon as I was fussing over my borrowed gear I came across a sad broken tump hanging from the pack. Bugger. crap. Darn. What really burned my toast was the plastic bowls were in mint condition. The cooking pots had to be hammered into something resembling pots again. Bugg...oh never mind. But besides having to toss the canvas pack into the dryer it came away unscathed. Glad I'd oiled the straps last winter. I love these packs.
 
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