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Garage Canoe Storage? Does this work ok? Boone Canoe Hanger

Never saw them before but I guess they would work as long as you can screw them into studs. Personally I hang canoes upside down from rope slings all the weight is then carried by the gunnels.
Jim
 
I don't think you want to go that way, as it looks like the canoe will hang from both hooks on one side which could the canoe to loose shape on one side
Any chance of making a rack out of 2x4's (or even 2x3's) that screws to the wall and the canoe sits flat on the gunnels? Use small triangle pieces of plywood on both sides of the 2x's at the place where the horizontal and perpendicular 2x's meet for support.


 
We do as Robin.. Storing a canoe on the side is better than upright on the bottom but best and cheapest is supported by the gunwales and bracketed.. You could also add a third bracket for center support but with Kevlar you dont have to do that.
You didnt say if you have space constraints. The brackets need about 36 inches out from the wall. On its side the canoe might suffice with 24 inches
 
thanks for all the responses. Space constraints do limit storage options. Building a rack on the wall for the canoe to sit on the gunwales will come too far out for a car to ever be parked in the garage again. That would be fine by me..but i'm married and need to compromise. Hoisting it would also prove difficult in a small garage. Maybe I could get away with having it on its sidesand rotating the side, adding pool noodles for cushion or adding a third hook to take away pressure from the sides.
 
How is your overhead clearance? For 17 years we had a high clearance garage and installed pulley hoists with the gunwales on two by fours attached to the pulleys.
Also a compromise could be met by angling the bottom supports as in Robins pic a little up
 
I don’t know the ceiling height of your garage or the weight of your kevlar Explorer, but a simple rack like Robin’s example, positioned to hold the canoe gunwales down close to the ceiling would be easy to build and offer less complex storage than a pulley system.

I store a glass MRC Independence in the garage that way. Stored upside down the gunwales are 7 feet off the floor, so far out of head clunking range, and only the width of the boat away from the wall. The rack supports are screwed into the wall studs, but as a belt and suspender concession I have straps from eye bolts in the ceiling supporting the outer edge of the wall crossbar.

I store a couple of boats on that wall, and if I didn’t have benches there could store at least four racked vertically.

 
Ok, It'll be a tight squeeze but I might have to give it a try and hope it'll work out. If I put the boat in the garage and close the garage door I should be able to carefully maneuver the canoe for storage..at least for longer term during winter when I don't take it down every other weekend.
My canoe is about 54lbs.

Mike do you happen to recall what kind of metal brackets you purchased?
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z0ZJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
Ok, It'll be a tight squeeze but I might have to give it a try and hope it'll work out. If I put the boat in the garage and close the garage door I should be able to carefully maneuver the canoe for storage..at least for longer term during winter when I don't take it down every other weekend.
My canoe is about 54lbs.

Mike do you happen to recall what kind of metal brackets you purchased?
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z0ZJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It is kind of a tight squeeze with the Indy, largely because I have shelving on one wall and the tracks for the garage door are somewhat in the way, but it works.

The supports are exactly those Stanley shelf brackets, which are uber sturdy. They are screwed into the wall studs (3 very long screws with fender washers on each bracket). The crossbars are 1 ½ inch wood stock, attached to the top of the bracket using round head carriage bolts so I don’t mar the gunwales when sliding the canoes into place.

If you are really gunwale protective you could countersink the bolt heads, or simply carpet the crossbars. I suggest something in a nice raspberry shag (any carpet, but indoor/outdoor carpeting works well)

The brackets/crossbars are spaced 7 feet apart, and with the sheerline taper of the canoe the wood extensions are only 2 foot 8 inches long, which still leaves me with 4 inches to spare at each station on the hull. Your spacing and dimension may need to be different; just set the Explorer up against the wall and grab a tape measure (and stud finder)

BTW, if you have a sheetrocked garage/shop etc it is future beneficial to grab a stud finder and long level and pencil mark all of the studs. Ceiling joists too. I did most of the walls when I enlarged the shop and it was empty, and wish I had thought ahead and marked them all when the shop was wall and ceiling accessibly empty.

The straps from the ceiling are probably unnecessary with those Stanley brackets; I wasn’t convinced about the sturdiness of that system without proof of concept and had extra straps lying around unused.

Those brackets have proven to be plenty sturdy, but there is a lot of shop stuff stored on the walls around those boats, and the straps provide insurance that I won’t accidentally knock a boat off while pulling down lumber or some storage box (or falling off a ladder while pulling down some lumber or storage box, taking the canoe downwith me). I have heard such boat falls off the rack stories, and hitting the concrete floor from 7 feet in the air would not be good.

In a similar vein the boats I have stored outside are all tied to the racks, but it took a couple of occasions where high winds tossed a lightweight canoe to the (thankfully soft) ground before I became more anal about tying down. Another good use for painter lines bow and stern.
 
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I got the boat off the floor. It wouldn't fit above the garage door rail so I went and put it just below. Ill use some paracord and a tautline hitch just to hold it place and put some fabric on the wood for a lil extra comfort because the brackets are far out and the gunnels hit on an angle.. thx for the feedback.

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edited...after more organization.
 

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Now dont you wish you could store everything that is assorted in the canoe? I see you have a typical garage mosh.;). we do too. Its an issue in the winter. When we get our driveway plowed all cars must be inside.
 
I got the boat off the floor. It wouldnt fit above the garage door rail so I went and put it just below. Ill use some paracord and a tautline hitch just to hold it place and put some fabric on the wood for a lil extra comfort because the brackets are far out amd the gunnels hit an an angle.. thx for the feedback.


Nicely done.

If you want to hang your canoe paddles on the wall below the canoe via a similarly simply screw-in bracket there are a variety of garden tool hangers that work well.

I use this tool hanger, with some split foam insulation over the 12 inch long arms (ten paddles per hanger)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/19990741...75035&wl11=online&wl12=19990741&wl13=&veh=sem

It is not as elegant as some folks paddle racks, but it works with just a couple of screws through the drywall.

Our PFD’s are hung over one of those triangular shelving brackets like you used for canoe supports, a flimsier version than the Stanleys since it isn’t supporting much weight, again with a wood crossbar extension attached on top.

Or even something like this.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lehigh-G...ategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=KEnx6M_glQ5Y-AchLN2GSQ
 
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