Work-stand/Storage Cart

[Yohawk]

With thanks to the helpful folks in finding the old post on the canoe stand, I modified it a little to fit my needs. I’m certainly no Tom Dodd with a Skil Saw, but it went together!!! I had been storing a Mad River Explorer on the floor as there is no usable wall space and hanging from the ceiling was out due to the garage door. With a range of 10’6” to 16’6” I was able to do without the “prow” version of the uprights, and by using a bolt on method, I can use add slanted uprights down the road if needed. The upper cross-bar slips over the uprights and flip-up stops provided a little protection for anything sliding off. I am in the process of gluing up some additional “slip-overs” that will have webbing, allowing for canoe movement done in the original design. Plenty of storage below for related gear in tubs. I had the wheels and plywood laying around, otherwise I would have made it a little lower. Many thanks to the original designer!!!

 

[Pook]

Yohawk!
Nicely done- and it looks very functional.
Just to clarify- you are saying that the top cross bars are removable? That they just "slip over" the uprights? That's a great idea!
I was looking at this as a mobile work stand rather than storage and working off webbing straps when you want a solid base isn't ideal. I love the idea of going between webbing and solid bars as needed.

Should have suggested you make two...

Bruce

 

[Guest]

With thanks to the helpful folks in finding the old post on the canoe stand, I modified it a little to fit my needs. I’m certainly no Tom Dodd with a Skil Saw, but it went together!!!

Tom Dodd?! Who is this Tom Dodd!! Maybe Jim Dodd!!!

If you want to rack a canoe upright on the top crossbar of that rack, to do some work on the inside, four pieces of ethafoam packing material or minicel can be wedge cut to fit the top crossbar, angled to provide easily adjustable hull stabilizers, and can be spaced out far or near to accommodate the chines of varying hull shapes and lengths.

The thick ethafoam packing material was a dumpster-destined material from packaged equipment and machinery.

P6240007 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

P7140009 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

If you are doing vigorous jiggley work just add some straps or ropes to hold the hull immovably rigid in place.

PB280034 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I have two canoes in the shop resting upright on ethafoam wedges right now. When I go to flip them over gunwales down for bottom work I can just pull off the wedge stabilizers.

 

[Jim Dodd]

Tom Dodd?! Who is this Tom Dodd!! Maybe Jim Dodd!!

I was wondering too Mike !

Yohawk that's a great idea !

Making the top removable adds versatility for sure ! Like Mike suggests or a carpet saddle, would make trim working handy !

I like it !

Jim

 

[Yohawk]

Tom Dodd?! Who is this Tom Dodd!! Maybe Jim Dodd!!!

My sincere apologies to Jim Dodd!!! Good grief, I’ve read enough of his posts that I shouldn’t have blown that one!!! Using a Skil Saw is not something I do very often, had to use a block plane to clean up some of the crooked cuts.

I’ll post a few more pics of the “attachments” when they are all glued up. I’m not sure where my webbing is, so might have to make another HD run.

Good idea on that foam. Not sure where I’d find some, but if I do, I’ll be sure to grab it. The work station part of the cart was more of a secondary function. My garage is barely big enough for a Civic, let alone a bunch of camping/canoeing stuff. At least now I can work my way through without stepping over stuff. My wife will be happy!


BTW Jim, a stripper is in my future. Now that I’m retired, my bucket list has taken on a bit more sense of urgency!

 

[BWCA66]

Looks great, think that needs to be in my shops future.

 

[Alan Gage]

Using a Skil Saw is not something I do very often, had to use a block plane to clean up some of the crooked cuts.

I always have a speed square handy when I'm crosscutting with the circular saw to use as a guide. I'll often choose to use that instead of the miter saw.

Alan