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First stripper: Tandem with speed and...rocker?

Zac

Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
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Location
Duluth MN / Wausau WI
Let me start by saying that I love my two composite tripping canoes, made by WeNoNah. I have bought both of them used off of Craigslist. In 2013 I bought a 1985 model, Jensen, 17'6" fiberglass model. I believe it compares to their current model "Escape." It has logged about 150 BWCA miles so far. This spring I purchased a 1989 Wenonah Odyssey in excellent condition for $1k. I have already put 50 b-dub miles on it and certainly favor it to the shorter, heavier, wetter-bowed fiberglass Jensen, especially since I always have my 96# Labrador with me and a waning tendency to travel with larger, double-portaging groups.

Life has placed me in Tomahawk, Wisconsin, living and working with a close friend and fellow BWCA fan. Long story short, this winter we hope to build a tandem tripper for him (since he won't buy my Jensen) and then a solo for me. We are both carpenters by trade, but he has much more experience with the table-tools and finish work. I have more experience, umm, tripping, so I get to choose the mold. Yada yada, basically looking to source plans for a 16'-18' tandem that is easy to build for a couple of rooks, fast on flat water and not afraid of waves or headwind.

Right now my own research has narrowed things down to the NWC Cruiser, NWC Winisk, or the Freedom 17 from Bear Mountain but none fit the bill exactly.

I feel like the symmetrical Cruiser would be the easiest build. I would, however, add a bit of bow height to it because that is one place it severely lacks vs. my Odyssey (18 1/2" vs ~23"[?]). We are young and don't like the wind to tell us whether we can paddle or not on any given day. 1" of rocker sounds acceptable to me. Maneuverability is not as much of a concern as speed and efficiency are.

I have read about how "modern" asymmetrical hulls are plenty fast and feature some rocker, but I know firsthand about the flat-water speed of my rocker-less Wenonahs so am tentative about having much. I've read some rave reviews about the Freedom line of canoes from Steve Killing but have been unable to find numbers for how much rocker the 17' hull has and\or reviews on the flat water speed of this hull vs. the rocker-less commercial jobs I already own. I feel better about the Freedom's 19.25" bow height but would still consider adding another inch to keep up with the Wenonahs. Another consideration is, regardless of time spent cutting stations, would an asymmetrical tandem hull like the Freedom prove to be too difficult for us novices to build? We will not be using staples.

The NWC Winisk seems to be the ideal canoe for me, except I am just plain scared of what the 3 1/4" of bow rocker means in relation to flat water speed and efficiency. I like to paddle straight lines across big lakes. My thinking tells me that it is easier to add bow height than to remove bow rocker (or both). If you have an opinion on a first time builder modifying plans like this, please let me know about it.

I don't want a walk-in-the-park build, as I want to be ready for #2, which will be a tripping solo with generous tumblehome. On the flip-side, I don't want to be outmatched and discouraged because I picked a difficult hull for my first build. I have read wysedave's Freedom 17 build and Sven's NWC Cruiser build.

Responses of "you're overthinking it" or "shut up and use the free plans, it's your first build" are welcome. I tend to over-research anything that costs more than $500 and be very particular in making my decision.

Thank you in advance,
Zac
 
From
A Charlie Wilson post in another forum

"Rocker doesn't decrease forward speed and usually increases it. First, rocker decreases wetted area, so lessens skin friction, hence drag. Secondly, to reduce wave making resistance, we want to move water away from and back into the hole created by maximum bean and draft. Since much of that water moves downwards, rocker reduces wave making resistance.

A peek at race boats tells us a lot. ICF boats usually carry 3-4" rocker into the bow, while USCA boats have straight keel lines? The difference is in water conditions, ICF courses have a required depth. USCA races often cross riffles and deal with shallow water dynamics.

John Winter's "the Shape of the Canoe" remains the best synopsis of hull shape."
 
I also think that you should take a laser level to your Wenonahs. Rocker is a drafting convenience and does not have a standard definition

I too have an Odyssey and it has a bit of rocker. It is a pig unloaded in the wind. Loaded with gear on Lake Superior it runs ok but dry. Its a downriver boat sometimes deeper is not better

For that solo be aware of the Coanda effect. Some Wenonahs like the Argosy are subject to waves riding up and sticking to the hull as the tumble home has a concave shape
 
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Mr addict,
I have my own design 17 ft tandem that has been built many times in the past few years. Each build has been around 40 lbs, with my original build coming in at 37 lbs.
PM me your email and I'll gladly email you a .dwg or .dxf or even a PDF of the plans, if you wish.
It's a symmetric hull, with very good speed and tracking, yet still seaworthy and maneuverable. Most everyone that has paddled that hull enjoyed it.

Here's a look at it, when recently built by my nephew. BTW, nephew and GF are sliding over a 15" beaver dam, with about a 400 lb total load in the photo below.
View attachment pxRJZWZjduvDEmtKDdioigeWRzUIA4XJn2YciTm5mSS7vP9uLGf8P9ULA1ZGCsvUubHPb6jdC-iLjGigm2pwt31hRL5TStzM4_qz
 
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I've built two winisks, they are a relatively easy build. The winish shines when it is loaded up for a trip. It will usually out distance traditional hulls, and handles the normal type of white water that a trip will throw at you. Things to think about...it has very narrow entry lines. I your bow person is large, they will be knee banging on the gunwales. It tends to slice through waves rather than ride over them. It's not a canoe for people who just want to fish, it performs best when loaded up.
 
I've read some rave reviews about the Freedom line of canoes from Steve Killing but have been unable to find numbers for how much rocker the 17' hull has and\or reviews on the flat water speed of this hull vs. the rocker-less commercial jobs I already own.

The Freedom 17 is also commercially produced in Northern Ontario and might be available for test-paddling at dealers and rental places... contacting abitibico.ca might help with locations to find one.

The Winisk is also commercially produced by Swift and might be test-paddled somewhere nearby. Canoe choice seems to be pretty subjective and actually spending time in one is probably the best way to make the decison, but both the Freedom and Winisk have optimum loading numbers given for the design and that might help.

Since you mentioned BWCA, Bryan Hansel built a Freedom 17 years ago and might have some advice... he had some good comments on the design. Seems to be doing photography now but canoeing is something he should know about.

[FONT=&quot]Bryan Hansel Photography[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]PO Box 149[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Grand Marais, MN 55604-0149[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Email: [/FONT]bryan@bryanhansel.com
[FONT=&quot]Phone: (218) 370-8351[/FONT]
 
Zac,
I have nowhere near the miles logged in a canoe that most of the other members here do. I just returned from a week in the BW, logged about 45 miles in my cruiser, and portaged it almost 5 miles! I love it! I found it easy to strip, even following the sheer line. Next one I am considering using the waterline to commence stripping. This will mak for less twist in strips as you get towards the bottom of the hull. If you will be in or near the twin cities any time in the near future, I would part with the forms for a fair price.

If you have any questions PM me or post them in your thread and I would be glad to answer them.
 
Thank you everyone for the fast replies! I sure am glad to have found such a great community.

I too have an Odyssey and it has a bit of rocker. It is a pig unloaded in the wind. Loaded with gear on Lake Superior it runs ok but dry.

I have definitely experienced the "pig" factor with both of my Wenonahs and use firewood, bags of water, the canine and -once- rocks as ballast. I have come to accept that weight is needed if fishing when the wind is up. I do not want to compromise on the ability to move camp on those windy-ish days. This canoe is being built with the BWCA in mind.

I've built two winisks... Things to think about...it has very narrow entry lines. I your bow person is large, they will be knee banging on the gunwales. It tends to slice through waves rather than ride over them. It's not a canoe for people who just want to fish, it performs best when loaded up.

Bow leg-room is a concern. The friend I am building this for/with is 6'3" and has encountered problems before (not in my Odyssey though!) so I was planning on possibly having to place an adjustable front seat farther back than normal and hoping there will always be some dense gear (he does not have a 96# canine) to place directly behind it. He would be in the stern most of the time, but has tall friends as well. Thoughts on this?

Mr addict,
I have my own design 17 ft tandem that has been built many times in the past few years. Each build has been around 40 lbs, with my original build coming in at 37 lbs.
PM me your email and I'll gladly email you a .dwg or .dxf or even a PDF of the plans, if you wish.
It's a symmetric hull, with very good speed and tracking, yet still seaworthy and maneuverable. Most everyone that has paddled that hull enjoyed it.

Very nice of you to offer! Do you have measurements of the completed craft? Widths, heights, rocker? You're already beating out the Freedom. I know I should test-paddle some canoes like frozentripper suggested but I don't have time with this whole j-o-b thing and hunting season being upon us... So for now I am plan-shopping on paper.

Zac,
I have nowhere near the miles logged in a canoe that most of the other members here do. I just returned from a week in the BW, logged about 45 miles in my cruiser, and portaged it almost 5 miles! I love it! I found it easy to strip, even following the sheer line. Next one I am considering using the waterline to commence stripping. This will mak for less twist in strips as you get towards the bottom of the hull. If you will be in or near the twin cities any time in the near future, I would part with the forms for a fair price.

Glad you had a great trip! Thank you for the advice on where to start stripping. I thought most builds were started at the waterline to provide a better canvas for accent strips. Did you encounter any difficult water while you were in, and how did the Cruiser handle? How heavy did you pack? I will review your build-and-a-half thread again before asking any more questions. Thanks for the offer to sell your forms, will consider it if we decide on a Cruiser. I pass through the Cities often.


Now I find myself looking again at the Redbird and Cirrus available from Noah's. Perhaps a bit ambitious for a first build?

Is there a nomenclature thread around that I have been unable to find? The differences between speed, tracking, efficiency and glide are where I seek clarification.

Thanks to everyone for their help. I'm afraid I could keep you all busy for quite some time with the indecision on this end. Hopefully we will have some other projects in the shop here finished up in the next two weeks so we can make room and order plans.
 
Another model you might want to look at is the Quetico by John Winters. http://greenval.com/quetico.html

The pic in the link is the first one I built. I made three of them. I used the last one to put the biggest guys in my canoe club in, both over 200 pounds, and with a full load of four big food barrels, they were still flying. I'm of the opinion that bigger is always better.
 
Zac
What ever you decide to build, use a Fairing strip to verify your forms are set up properly, and there are no unusual bumps in the hull !
This is simply a thin strip, that is laid, or even stapled on your forms, once the forms are set up. The idea is that it comes in contact with the forms, evenly.
Check the sides, and the keel with the strip.
I've heard a lot of positive about the Freedom, but I don't like inner, and outer stems, but prefer the Stemless build method. The Freedom can be built Stemless, And that's the way I'd do it !

Excited about another build ! Please share !

Jim
 
We packed fairly heavy, had almost 600# in the boat. That includes about 360# of human weight. Double portaging of course. I had the cruiser out in some 1 1/2-2' swells on one day, other than that, lots of windy paddling with around a 1' chop. No water over the bow even once! I found the design very easy to maneuver as well even with limited rocker. We also paddles through some good currents near the portage for curtain falls and it handled like a champ! I did not add any depth to the sheer either, though it would be easy to do so.

On a side note, if you haven't been to curtain falls, I highly recommend it, as it is a sight to behold. We even got to witness a show of stupidity by a father and son who decided to swim out into the hydraulic below the falls and ride it out wearing their life jackets! I have a picture to prove it if anyone is interested.
 
17 ft OAL, 28.5 wide at the 4 inch water line, 15 bow ht, 12 midship ht, 13 stern ht, 1 inch rocker with a slightly uplifted bow, very mild tumblehome.
The description sounds mundane, but the hull really performs well in a variety of conditions.
 
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