Deciding which canoe

[carpenter]

I have a Northwind Solo, kneeling seat, BlueHole Sunburst II, pedestal, and recently paddled the Swift Prospector 14. At 14' and more rocker the Prospector was considerably more nimble than the Northwind but tracked better than the Sunburst, logically...I was actually surprised at how playful it was while still being able to track straight. Nothing beats playing in boats to know what you like or need.

I have paddled sea kayaks and racing kayaks but have yet to double-blade a canoe. I would be inclined to double-blade at the same height as for a single-blade. I feel there would be more power and control at a greater height, also an opportunity for a more vertical stroke with the double blade, efficiency, power and control...though most kayak paddles are designed for a more horizontal stroke.

Are pack canoes designed for converts from kayaks to canoes? Providing the stability of a touring kayak but easier entry, exit and loading/unloading? If you are already comfortable in a canoe perhaps buy a canoe with a conventional seat and remove if you want to try pack style?

Again, more control, efficiency and speed from a higher seat and more vertical stroke, no? Is there something I am missing? I understand that a lower seat position is more stable but technique and experience provide more confidence in the boat... in racing kayaks for example, narrower craft are less stable but faster, as I became more comfortable in the boat I would elevate the seat position higher to improve performance.

It feels like I am missing something but not sure what, other than actually paddling a pack canoe or double blading a regular canoe.

Seat height a factor in stability and control...choose the boat that provides you with the maneuverability and weight that you seek and install a seat that meets your comfort level while retaining the option of changing it if you choose to.

 

[yknpdlr]

I have a PB Rapidfire with a custom (1.5 in) higher than highest usual available optional seat. With one notable exception, I 99.99% paddle it single blade, the only .01% exception is in some races that require double blade to be used in the canoe class (solo-recreational, equal to or less than 16 feet long) that the RF and others of that category fit into. PB definitely markets the RF, Shadow, and others to kayak paddler converts.

But I paddle a canoe as a canoe should be paddled and maneuvered, with a single blade paddle. I also have a PB Shadow, a SR Blackwater, and a Swift Cruiser, and a couple of Hornbecks in my solo fleet. Only the Honrbecks, as bottom sitters, are a true double blade canoes. I tolerate and only use them as remote pond bushwhack carry boats. All the other solo canoes I own have at least 1.5 inch risers above the standard highest optional seats. My single blade single side power stroke incorporates a slight pitch stroke, (or a Canadian when using a straight wood paddle), with a gentle off-side heel for direction control. with little to no need to ever or very rarely incorporate anything stronger (such as J-stroke) for single side paddling long distance straight line travel.