While finishing sanding my skid plates, I found a crack on the bottom of the hull. I could grind out the loose stuff and refill. Do you think it’s necessary? Would another impact to the same spot create a hole?
Last edited:
-
Happy Incorporation of Hudson's Bay Co. (1670) 🍁🦫🪓
Cracked!
- Thread starter Black_Fly
- Start date
Does it flex at all there? I'm not sure of what's on the inside at that spot, but I would repair a crack with a layer or 2 of the same fabric that's on the inside, kevlar or that hybrid fabric. You can buy similar fabric, probably the exact same stuff from the manufacturer of your canoe. They probably have piles of scraps. If you have a foam core there on the inside, then your repair will have to be on the outside. In both instances, you may want to patch it with glass on the outside to make it less visible. I'm sure the people who made that canoe have a good answer on exactly what to use.
Mark
Mark
Trade off between appearance and certain strength. If there is no differential flex - i.e. you can't deflect one side of crack and not other - I'd coat outside with same material as original - guessing a polyester resin - and buff smooth.
If it does flex differentially, I'd do an inside patch and then same as above on outside.
I don't think a catastrophic failure is possible and a piece of tape would let you finish trip - worst case.
Because I value appearance, I'd patch outside last only if I had to.
If it does flex differentially, I'd do an inside patch and then same as above on outside.
I don't think a catastrophic failure is possible and a piece of tape would let you finish trip - worst case.
Because I value appearance, I'd patch outside last only if I had to.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong picture, but I don't see a crack, just a gouge. I probably wouldn't do anything to it, but I have filled similar gouges with regular epoxy.
The lighter areas are not connected to the fabric. I was thinking of grinding out the loose stuff with a Dremel and filling with epoxy. At this point, cosmetics aren’t a high priority.
I've used Jim's method too, works very well!
I agree with Mem's diagnosis and remedy.
you could just get some rod builder's epoxy, thinner than water so it will flow in to the crack easily, and designed to flex. The only bad part is that mixing has to be exact and the repair needs to stay dead level for about 24-36 hours to prevent the epoxy from running out of the crack
In my experience as an inexperienced canoe repair hacker, the less you do the better off you may be.
Similar threads
