Interesting, your card file looks a lot like the ones I use for alpine and Nordic ski tuning.Using a card scraper to flatten and smooth the epoxy surface of a freestyle paddle. One of several steps before final finishing.
Soon to become a paddle. All parts cut. 17 pieces plus Dynel edging (not shown).
Western red cedar is the most common wood that I use for the blades and shaft core. I also use eastern white cedar, and occasionally some repurposed redwood that I have on hand. For ultra light blades (saves and ounce +) I use paulonia.Marc, thanks for taking the time to post a photo essay on how you make laminated wood paddles.
Do you have a standard menu of woods you use to make a paddle, or do you vary it depending on supply, customer request, whim, or other factors?
I have a conversation with the customer to determine their need/want. We discuss the type of paddle (river, shallow water, freestyle...). Then comes a discussion of shaft length. Sometimes their is a special request about grip size and or paddle shaft diameter. Aesthetics are always discussed, which include what woods will be used. Is it going to be a "working" paddle or a "wall hanger". Weight may not be a consideration for a wall hanger. Although all of my paddles are such that they are suitable for display, one built specifically for display may warrant a higher grade of finish. Then there is time frame ......Nice shop Marc. I see that you make custom paddles, how does that work?