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build with cove down
- Thread starter lyle
- Start date
No !
Really don't understand the reasoning. It looks like to me that it could be hard on the fragile edges of the cove. Also the glue would tend to run away from the joint, creating more sanding difficult, especially on the inside.
I understand that it might be hard to keep glue in the cove up method, in the football area. That is easily remedied, by simply tilting the strongback .
Lastly filling in the football seems easier with cove up.
Tilting the Strongback has many advantages.
I'm really surprised this idea hasn't caught on earlier !
Really don't understand the reasoning. It looks like to me that it could be hard on the fragile edges of the cove. Also the glue would tend to run away from the joint, creating more sanding difficult, especially on the inside.
I understand that it might be hard to keep glue in the cove up method, in the football area. That is easily remedied, by simply tilting the strongback .
Lastly filling in the football seems easier with cove up.
Tilting the Strongback has many advantages.
I'm really surprised this idea hasn't caught on earlier !
Absolutely!
I prefer cove down. Haven't had much luck in getting people to follow along with me though. I clamp a couple small scrap blocks to the forms with a cutout in them to hold the strips. Drop the strip in the blocks, lay in a bead of glue, and set it into place. I think it's faster than trying to accurately place glue in a strip that's already attached to the forms and, like you said, you're not dealing with the sharp and delicate edges of the cove sticking up.
I did half a dozen or so canoes with the cove up before switching to cove down and doing a few more. I preferred cove down.
Like most things with strip building there are multiple ways to achieve the same goal and people successfully use them all. I don't like doing the same thing over and over again so it seems with every build I'd change at least one thing the build method. Some of those changes worked good and others didn't but they all resulted in a good hull.
Alan
I prefer cove down. Haven't had much luck in getting people to follow along with me though. I clamp a couple small scrap blocks to the forms with a cutout in them to hold the strips. Drop the strip in the blocks, lay in a bead of glue, and set it into place. I think it's faster than trying to accurately place glue in a strip that's already attached to the forms and, like you said, you're not dealing with the sharp and delicate edges of the cove sticking up.
I did half a dozen or so canoes with the cove up before switching to cove down and doing a few more. I preferred cove down.
Like most things with strip building there are multiple ways to achieve the same goal and people successfully use them all. I don't like doing the same thing over and over again so it seems with every build I'd change at least one thing the build method. Some of those changes worked good and others didn't but they all resulted in a good hull.
Alan
That's my thinking also + I plan to use bungee cord have to check but thinking 3/16 or 1/4 inch will tie them to a rail I put on the sides of strong back up over bead edge of strip down to
rail pull a bit and tie. Strip will be pulled down and into edge of station, and will just slip over bead. I also have small notched blocks to hold strip for gluing.
This is my first build should be ready for test run in 2 or 3 days, in real time for me that's at least a week.
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rail pull a bit and tie. Strip will be pulled down and into edge of station, and will just slip over bead. I also have small notched blocks to hold strip for gluing.
This is my first build should be ready for test run in 2 or 3 days, in real time for me that's at least a week.
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Just got back in from shop for coffee, had a look as stations should have seen this before, took my drill with 1" Bosch dare devil bit drilling holes so edge of hole is 2" from edge of form
then saber saw to cut from hole to hole then skip to next 2 holes doing this only where in videos, and photos of other builders do some creative clamping. Well that's going to push
start of putting strips on 2 or 3 more days. what the it's great fun.
Lyle
then saber saw to cut from hole to hole then skip to next 2 holes doing this only where in videos, and photos of other builders do some creative clamping. Well that's going to push
start of putting strips on 2 or 3 more days. what the it's great fun.
Lyle
Hi lyle, cove up or down, your choice ...
As far as the hold downs .... I use a cam buckle at each station, lengths of 3/16" shock cord and 1/4" dowel as a "protector of the cove" ... this is a pic of my usual setup. Sounds a bit like what you are planning.
Brian
As far as the hold downs .... I use a cam buckle at each station, lengths of 3/16" shock cord and 1/4" dowel as a "protector of the cove" ... this is a pic of my usual setup. Sounds a bit like what you are planning.
Brian
I prefer cove up until I get past the turn in the stems because it’s easier to fit the strips together at the ends on a stemless build. I make a set of strips with a bead on both sides to convert it to cove down to finish the stripping past the bilge. It sounds a little weird, but it’s the way I’ve done the last few. It works well for me.
Mark
Mark
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