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A lightweight Raven from scraps

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Aug 10, 2018
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Blairsville, PA (about 30 mi E of PGH)
So far I've built 4 strippers and my favorites at this point are the John Winters designed Raven and the Alan Gage designed Bloodvein. Both are high volume, wilderness capable trippers that are a pleasure to paddle, handle moving water very well and both of those builds came in reasonably light for the volume (the Tamarack Raven is 51# and the Tulip Poplar Bloodvein is 41#).

Those of you who've been watching these builds may recall that my architect friend had originally printed the Bloodvein plans a bit small and that got me to wondering... I really DO like the seaworthiness and handling capabilities of the Raven but I don't really need that kind of volume (I think it would be very happy with 350-400 lbs aboard while I can't imagine me + all gear ever exceeding 275). In addition, although the Tamarack makes a truly beautiful hull, it is significantly heavier than any of the other woods I've used.

In reality, my favorite color combination is probably the Aspen & Cherry that I used on my 1st build. I think I've still got a ton of those strips leftover (I might have to make some Cherry strips), I've got plenty of cloth, epoxy, etc and I'm thinking I can build another boat for the price of some paracord with which to lace the seats...

All of this has led to the decision to build a scaled-down version of the Raven for this winter's build. When I bought the last set of plans from Martin Step at Green Valley Boatworks, he sent them pre-printed but he's since sold the rights to the Winters' designs to Noah's Marine. This works out OK for this build because Noah's sells them as a PDF and I can have them printed at whatever scale I wish.

Now, if you've suffered through all of the above, I'd value your opinions: What scale should I use? I'm thinking of having them printed 15% smaller which should make the "Baby Raven" around 13 ft long & 27 inches wide (24 1/2 at waterline). The issue is that (I think) decreasing the wetted hull area will exponentially decrease the total carrying capacity and I'm wondering if a 15% reduction is size might reduce the tripping ability too much to be anything more than a day paddler.

Should I go conservative and reduce by only 10% or does 15% seem reasonable? Do you suppose the smaller hull will still handle the wind & waves well enough to maintain seaworthiness or do I give up too much freeboard?

Another wild card to throw into the mix: What happens if I do not reduce the width between stations by 15% and leave it stretched out to 15 feet 4 inches with the narrower waterline and less freeboard? (I'm leaning toward reducing station spacing to 10 1/4 inches at this point but nothing is carved in stone)

I'll probably order plans tonight but I'm unlikely to get them printed for a couple of weeks. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
Having never done anything like this, I have nothing to suggest but, bottom line, I am looking forward to your build. I always learn so much when I follow along with you talented folks as you make your next canoe. Thanks for including us!

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...

be well.

snapper
 
I've never scaled plans up or down but I'm of the opinion that a hull that's been scaled up or down is no longer the same boat. I certainly enjoy and can respect playing around and doing things differently but if I was looking for a lower volume boat I would choose one that was designed as such from the get-go if you find one that fits your needs.

Alan
 
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Changing a design is fun ! It gives you something to look forward to, as you build .
It can also have pitfalls.

But none the less ? Go for it !

Jim
 
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