1982 Mohawk Intrepid - To Repair or To Not Repair

[Mike K]

Another new guy to the forum looking for guidance on whether or not I should repair an older Mohawk canoe.

I already have a NorthStar Northwind Solo canoe so I am nicely equipped for BWCA/Quetico and Wabakimi (hopefully) tripping.

I have been looking for a 16ft tandem that I can use and abuse, solo or with a guest. I came across a damaged Mohawk Intrepid 16 on FB marketplace that I purchased for $60. Apparently, a tree fell on the canoe damaging the midpoint of the hull. One side of the hull has numerous wrinkles but no cracks that I can see. The other side of the canoe has a few wrinkles with a crack revealing the foam center. I am planning to use 4 oz fiberglass on the outside of the hull and 6 oz on the inside of hull to fix the crack. Wrinkles will be sanded down and reinforced with glass inside and out on both sides of the canoe. West Systems Gflex will be used in the repair. Once done the outside of the canoe will be repainted.

On top of the glass repair I will also replace the gunwales and add a new yoke (maybe, this canoe is Heavy).

I am still contemplating whether or not this canoe is worth the effort to repair. I am not expecting to use this canoe in Class 3 rapids again in its life as it will be used in local lakes and rivers in the UP of Michigan and maybe a trip or two.

Is this worth repairing? Cost wise probably no, for nostalgia purposes, yes.

Is the repair approach appropriate for this old royalex canoe?

 

[Cheeseandbeans]

Hi Mike-welcome to the site.

I have repaired canoes in much worse condition. Your plan seems reasonable as far as durability.

Only you know if it is worth your time. You will never get a significant amount selling the hull after it’s new again, but it may be worth it to learn new skills and the enjoyment of the project if you’re into that kind of thing.

Please take some photos and share if you decide to fix it up. Feel free to ask any questions if you get stuck.
Good luck!

Bob

 

[Sedges]

This is a royalex hull. The outer-red- layer is vinyl. Epoxy won't adhere to the vinyl. The ABS layer and the ABS foam layer will supposedly work with epoxy resin. I would sand it with no finer than 80 grit so there is some"tooth" to the surface to aid the bond. Get all the vinyl off on the areas you wish to use epoxy for sure.

I would skip painting it. but if you must there are some things to consider. Again the vinyl... There are specialty paints for vinyl. Most paints will not adhere for very longto vinyl, especially if it is flexible. Then the epoxy repair. Make sure the paint you use on the vinyl will work on the repaired areas. Two different paints might be needed.

I have never tried to remove the entire vinyl layer from a canoe, but it might be possible. You would get a much better paint job over the ABS layer. It might lighten up the boat a bit.

Personally, I would make the repairs and beat it around a bit before putting more effort into it. A royalex boat of that vintage is likely to be pretty brittle no matter how well it was kept.

 

[recped]

This is a royalex hull. The outer-red- layer is vinyl. Epoxy won't adhere to the vinyl.

I have 7 Royalex boats, all except one has had patches and or skid plates installed using epoxy over the outer layer of vinyl, the skids on my Explorer were installed over 30 years ago and are still firmly attached, on other boats I have patches that have been holding firm for 20+ years.

 

[Sedges]

I stand corrected/

 

[Mike K]

Thanks for all of the info. The prior owner had painted the canoe using a primer and a shade of red. As I sand with the 120 grit the red vinyl layer underneath the paint is getting exposed and in numerous areas I think I am down to the ABS layer. It seems that I could probably sand most of the vinyl off of the bottom while the sides may be a challenge. The vinyl on the sides could probably also be removed with 80 grit. Rust-Oleum marine Topside paint after a layer of Rust-Oleum topside primer will be used to paint the canoe, preferably over the entire canoe if possible.

I will use 80 grit around the repair areas prior to fiberglass work and over the remaining vinyl layer.

New fiberglass will be installed on the inside and outside of the canoe where it was damaged by the tree that fell on the canoe. To do this I will have to remove the obvious vinyl layer around the damaged area on the inside of the canoe. Do I feather the GFlex from the new fiberglass over the edge of vinyl layer about 2 inches?

Where is the best place to find replacement gunwales? I am leaning towards vinyl gunwales, no wood.

I will post pics throughout the process....

 

[Steve in Idaho]

+1 on not removing the vinyl. I've never had a problem with epoxy or paint sticking to the vinyl skin.

How bad are the gunwales? Unless they're actually broken or so bent that they change the shape of the hull below the top of the chines, I would just leave them be and paddle it.