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10,000 Islands NWR

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Nov 19, 2013
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Location
central NYS - 10 miles from the Baseball Hall of F
My wife and I played hooky from work last week and joined a group sponsored by the Adirondack Mt. Club here in NYS for a 6 day trip in the !0,000 Islands NWR. Located just north of the Everglades NP, our trip started at the Collier-Seminole SP outside Naples, FL. We were led by two staff members of Wilderness Inquiry, a Minnesota based adventure group that leads trips for people of all abilities. They also "hire out" which is why they were leading our trip. We met on St. Patrick's Day and spent the first night at the park getting to know one another while getting set for the trip. The morning hours were spent with a visit to the Shark Valley interpretive center in the Everglades NP, with the afternoon dedicated to packing gear and getting ready for the big paddle.

Monday morning eventually dawned but we began in the dark; thank goodness for headlamps. While I knew it would be the case, we were so much further west of where we live in NYS that the difference between sun-up in NY versus FL was almost 40 minutes. Nonetheless, we were up by 6:30 AM and heading off to the water by 9 AM to start our adventure. Unfortunately, we were stymied in our efforts to get on the water by the "Friends of the Collier-Seminole SP" group. This organization does a lot of good work for the park but on this morning their lack of politeness didn't help us out in any way shape or form. When we arrived at the boat launch they had filled it with their canoes for a sponsored trip they were doing at 9:30 AM. What made it worse was they didn't even leave then. In fact, they blocked the launch site for over an hour; which certainly didn't help us with the long day that was ahead of us. When I asked their leader if there was any way they could move a boat or two so we could take off, I was told I was just a visitor and THEY are the Park! I was polite but didn't mince words in telling him how rude he was. Bottom line, he didn't care and we'd just have to wait until they were ready. His attitude left a bad taste in my mouth but there really wasn't much I could do about it; although the park management will be made aware of how their "Friends" group relates to the general public.

A little after 10 AM we finally got on the water and on our way. We traveled down the Blackwater River through the mangroves down to the Gulf of Mexico. Once on the open water of the Gulf we experienced the lightest winds we would have all week. Because of that we made a beeline to White Horse Key where we set up a base camp. While only 12 miles, the paddle in was pretty long for a group of northerners on their first trip of the year in mid-80s temperatures. The sun was hot and there was no where to hide except under your hat. In all it took 7.5 hours to travel to the site and everyone was happy to arrive. Being as hot as I was, it kind of made me miss the 2' of snow I'd left behind in NYS.

White Horse Key became our home for the next three nights, moving only for the last evening on the trip. It was a great basecamp, located right on the Gulf with beautiful views, prime swimming and enough wildlife sightings to keep even the most jaded birder excited. Each day we paddled to various open beaches in and around the mangroves. The wind was truly challenging each day with 12-15 knots being the average speed. Luckily we could hide amongst the islands but there were still some very difficult stretches to negotiate every time we were out. Heck, I even had to set up a couple of surf landings in our canoe due to the incessant wind and waves. What made it all worthwhile were the many dolphin, manatee and sea turtle sightings we had along the way. We were also treated to numerous osprey, including a nesting pair, lots of brown pelicans, many variety of heron & egrets, cormorants and anhinga, black vultures and small wading birds that hid in the mangrove.

The second night we were on the key was the only time we had any rain but what a rain it was. The forecast we had indicated the storm cell was going to travel north of us but the cell never got the message. Just after dinner we began to see lightening running both horizontally and vertically in the sky to the northwest of us. The thunder rolled in as we hit our tents, knowing we were eventually going to take a hit. About a half hour later one of the strongest winds I've ever been out in hit the side of our tent, popping up the stakes and lifting the tent's vestibule door up, exposing the screen door of our tent. I spent the next half hour leaning into the tent to keep it up. It was a funny picture though as I was able to continue reading via my headlamp for some of it. Eventually I had to put my book down and lean into the tent for dear life. During this time my wife was very complimentary to me as my bulk blocked the majority of the rain from entering the tent. She assured me that everything to my left was bone dry so "keep up the good work!" When there was a lull in the storm I sprinted out and used some line I keep with me to tie out the vestibule. When the storm started up again my guying out of each end seemed to do the trick and we didn't have any more problems. From there I used my pack towel to suck up the water that made it into my end of the tent. Once that was done, it was time to sleep; thankfully in dry gear.

We woke up the next morning to a beautiful day but found out that lightening had started a wildfire about 20 miles from us. While this wasn't an issue for us now, it would be on our last day paddling in.

Due to the wind not letting up, we decided for our last night we wanted to be closer to our final destination. We all agreed that paddling 12 miles back in the winds we were experiencing was more than anyone wanted to do so we packed up and paddled through the mangroves to another unnamed key where we spent the night at the foot of the Blackwater River where it entered the Gulf. That night the stars were magnificent but their glow had competition from the wildfire to our northeast. The horizon was a ball of light in a place where it had previously been dark. Not sure of what to expect, we knew we were at least safe so we enjoyed our last evening's campfire and the camaraderie that goes with it.

The last morning the weather was cool and hazy. The haze was the result of the fire and it stayed with us off and on throughout the day based on the wind. After packing up we began our daily game of hide & seek with the wind, using the mangroves whenever possible to shorten our open water crossings. Even in the worst of the wind and waves, it was great to see dolphin and a manatee. Eventually we entered the river and began paddling back to the park where we'd started. Along the way we had our best "up close & personal" view of a sea turtle but we also began to experience a different sort of precipitation. What started out as a light rain of ash became a steady stream of non-burning debris as we got closer to the park. While it never hindered our breathing, I was glad no one in our group suffered from any sort of respiratory ailments.

Eventually we arrived back at the park and the reverse process of unpacking the boats began. This was a great group of folks who really worked well together so in no time at all, the canoes had been washed off of their salt encrusted coats and everything else was repacked and put in its rightful place in the trailer. It was sad to see this adventure come to an end but it just leaves me wanting more so it looks like I'll just have to go back again!

As for photos...I did take some but due to the winds I didn't do much when on the water. Another block to photos at the moment is my Flickr account doesn't seem to want to accept them. Should this change, I'll try to post a few photos in the next day or so.

I guess that's all for now. Thanks for taking the time to read this and until next time....be well.

snapper
 
Good description of the storm; they are not uncommon in the islands. I have spent time holding the tent down from the windward wall and sopping up water with camping towels. It is sort of fun. ;)
 
Another great read! Thank you Snapper! I used to go to Fla many years ago to visit a good friend. One day while on his skiff during a lighting storm he reached for the steering wheel and got zapped by a hit of lighting not far off. Sparks flew from the wheel to his fingertips and the piece of metal I had my butt resting on zapped me pretty good. We got the heck out of there quickly!
 
Those "friends" need a good talking to.. They do canoe tours in the am a few times a week catering to those who haven't canoed much and some moonlight tours.. They don't own the launch. Its a good size but not that big..Especially galling as you paid to use it too.

.Snapper if you need the contact address

https://www.floridastateparks.org/content/friends-collier-seminole-state-park. Its the same as the main park address.



Yes gotta love t storms and cold fronts. One good use of those big jugs of water you have to carry is deadheading your tent..And we guyed everything possible. as I am sure others do.

Mopping up a wet tent in sand isn't my idea of fun...:rolleyes:

I wonder how sand gets EVERYWHERE when wet.
 
I did that trip with Wilderness Inquiry about 7 years ago. I really enjoyed it. I am really jealous of your seeing manatees and sea turtles. I don't even remember if we saw dolphins, but I know I haven't seen the other two. We, too, were on White Horse Key... were you on the spit of land on the north end (I think), that gave you a view of both the gulf and the bay? Anyway, thank you for the very nice trip down memory lane. Pringles
 
Thanks everyone for the kind words.

YC - I know that a lot of parks have become dependent upon their "Friends" groups but this guy was really out of line. My guess is the park manager would like to know about it so thanks for another way to reach him/her.

Pringles - We were right on the corner of the key; looking to the west. I do have some photos now which I'll post a bit later today. Our tents fronted the Gulf but you could look around the corner back into some semi-protected water of the bay.

Robin - With all the wind you've dealt with on Lows Lake, I'm sure you're up to the job!

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper
 
ah but add tides( that always seem against you) and shallow water ( under three feet..increases boat drag) and the paddling is more exhausting than Northern Lakes.
 
Flickr finally decided to cooperate so here's a link to the photos I was able to take while we were away. Nothing special, although some of the sunset photos are pretty nice, but I hope you all enjoy them nonetheless.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/146113215@N05/albums/72157689196926550

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper
 
Ahhh memories. I remember those green canoes with the WI logo, and the PFDs with the names of creatures... none of that looking for PFD 7. And I remember those little green bowls. Did you have Pesto Pasta? Salsa Smash? I really miss the Salsa Smash. I think I know where you were in relation to our camp. Thanks for taking the time to share.
 
Did anyone find a crossbar for a Marmot Lightroom 3,
i set up
there a few years ago and lost one on the spit on Whitehorse
small world
 
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Sorry, no crossbar from your tent YC. As for the food, I never got many of the names from their specialties but we did eat well so that was good enough for me.!

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper

I'm quite sure someone else has it.. It's been four years. since I did Coon. Gullivan, Camp Lulu and Panther and Whitehorse and everyone likes the beach where you have water on both sides and the cross breeze

You didn't mention bugs. When I was there in that March they were so ferocious I crossed camping on Fakahatchee right off the list. This past March trip there were few to no bugs!
 
We were pretty fortunate in regard to bugs. There were a few no-see-um's out the morning we left from the state park but other than that, nothing. My guess is they couldn't fight the wind so we were bug free 99% of the trip; which was fine by me.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper
 
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