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EM White Guide 20'

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Sep 4, 2023
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Location
North Dakota
Thinking of building another canoe. I want a big tandem, maybe even set one up for three seats. The EM White Guide 20 in Gilpatrick's book is looking perfect for me. I believe Memequay has built one. The Winters Quetico also interests me. I'm not concerned much with the weight of the canoe. I want to be able to carry three big guys, and a lot of gear. Any other plans I should consider?
 
I have been considering building a freighter, grand laker square stern as my next boat project. But then I wonder what that 20' White Guide would be like with a outboard bracket and a small motor.
If you build one, I hope you share it here, I'd like to follow along.
 
I didn't build the EM White, but in this thread, you will see one of the 20 footers I built

However, I believe Valley woodworking is out of business now.

I also stretched the J. Winters Quetico out to 20 feet. It's faster than the one above, but it doesn't carry as much stuff.
 
The 20' White is my favorite boat to paddle, solo or tandem. It is a large volume canoe but might not carry as big of a load as other 20 footers. It would work for 3 people and gear up to a point, but I think it can be overloaded. The only experience I have tripping with three people in a 20' boat was in an XL Tripper in Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico in the Everglades. That was a heavy load that included all of our water for five days. I'm not sure the White would have handled it as well.



Ober27,I don't think you'd have any problems with a small motor mounted on the side. Gil Gilpatrick used to take one on trips when he was guiding.
 
Now we are talkin. I love big canoes. If I had it to do over again I would find a big White to paddle.
I had an OT Guide 18 which was close.
 
Man, I am an idiot. Got all my strips cut. Bought a new router, and table. Went to set the router up for cutting bead, and I failed miserably. I bought a set of cove and bead bits in 1/4. My strips came out to be 7/32. Well those bits are way too big lol. Lesson learned, now going to order new bits, debating whether I should go 3/16 or 1/8.

On my first boat I hand beveled the strips, so the bead and cove is new for me. I also tried the skilsaw method for cutting strips which I liked! The first build, I used my table saw. Was really hoping to have the strips all done by this weekend, now I have to order new bits and wait a bit. Any recommendations on which bits to get 3/16 or 1/8?
 
I'm not sure what the issue is... I've been building with 3/16 inch strips and cutting the bead & cove with 1/4 inch bits. I just make sure that the strip is centered in the bit & then be careful with the cove edges (because they go all the way to paper thin).

Granted, maybe I'm doing it wrong and I'll readily admit that the aesthetics aren't a primary concern but what's happening to your strips?
 
With the bead bit, there is a gap an each side of the strip. When I run a strip through the table, I get a nice round profile on one side of the strip, and not much roundness on the other side. I can adjust the height of the bit up or down, but it doesn’t want to give a nice round edge on both sides, too much gap. For the heck of it, I put the cove bead in, and then I get paper thin edges. It is just to wide, hogs out to much of the strip.
 
With the bead bit, there is a gap an each side of the strip. When I run a strip through the table, I get a nice round profile on one side of the strip, and not much roundness on the other side. I can adjust the height of the bit up or down, but it doesn’t want to give a nice round edge on both sides, too much gap. For the heck of it, I put the cove bead in, and then I get paper thin edges. It is just to wide, hogs out to much of the strip.

I'm not sure but that all sounds about right.

The cove edges are going to be very thin. A narrower bit would cut a narrower cove (resulting in thicker edges) but I don't now that it will allow the strips to curve properly to follow the hull.

I always struggle setting the height of my cutters to get an even bead on both sides of the strip.

Could you post a couple pictures of your results? Maybe it's worse than it sounds.

I don't remember what sized bits I have. I've used them on strips from 1/4" to 5/32". They work better on 1/4" strips than 3/16" strips and are marginal on 5/32" but still get the job done.

Alan
 
Or maybe I'm just full of it. Looks like 1/8" radius is often recommended for 1/4" strips.


Alan
 
It might be how you're making the adjustments when you change the height of the bits. Because there's a certain amount of slop in any adjustable setting, you can't just unlock the fixture & sneak it up or down a few thousandths.

Make a mark or carefully note the depth, move the adjustment well past where you want it to go and then gradually return to your desired setting. My understanding is that this will put all of the slop on one side of the adjustment, essentially making it moot.

I then take some strip scraps, color one side completely with pencil and then barely touch it to the bit. With a cove bit, it should scoop out a razor-thin spot in the center of the strip and, with a bead bit, the edges will be cut away. You want to be sure that they cut away evenly on both edges or directly in the center. Once you've done that (it usually takes me a dozen or more tries), you can set the depth of your cut.

Just remember to take your time. I rush through & cut corners on lotsa stuff but I force myself to be methodical about this set-up.

Here's a great video showing how to do what I described above, just skip the first 11 minutes because you don't need to do all of that. :D

(PS: I believe that an 1/8 inch radius, will give a 1/4 inch width of cut.)
 
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