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Resurrecting a Blue Barrel

"BTW, I have mentioned this before, but for anyone new to the board, I like Glenn...heck, I’ve met Glenn and I still like him; I think he feels much the same. We have been “going after” each other on the board for years now, mostly in fun, and for the sport of debating silly things like blue barrels."

So you're both full of piss but no vinegar. Gotcha. Carry on.
 
Blue Barrel Fini

Ok, this blue barrel biz has gone on long enough.

The barrel and lid, over-proofed with K.O.E solution and left solution filled, sitting out under the hot sun, had little odor when emptied and left airing out in the hot sun. Zero mephitic “fertilizer” smell, just a very faint laundry mat odor remains after a few days of open barrel airing out. I can live with that, and expect the Sudsville odor will continue to fade.

The thick black rubber gasket, after loooong soaking in K.O.E, still had a faint fertilizer odor when left to dry in the hot sun. Me no like. In for a penny, in for a mix of Odyssey/Paul Krebaum’s de-skunking hydrogen peroxide, baking soda and dish soap.

I was worried that the peroxide might dissolve the rubber. Not so, or at least not much; I left the gasket soaking for a few days in a bucket with an inch of that mix, occasionally de-sliming the gasket with my fingers and putting it back in the bucket to continue soaking. It did repeatedly become slimy, and my fingers stunk. Brad, quick, smell my finger. Nasty dang gasket.

After a few days soaking in that skunk de-odorizer solution the gasket was 90% pure, the smell that remained was faintly K.O.E. And, after sitting in the hot sun, very faintly K.O.E and, yup, still just a hint of fertilizer, which may be psychosomatic at this point in the struggle

One more try on the gasket. I wet it down and laid it in a sealed bucket, covered with coffee grounds for a couple days. And, when we had some leftover hot coffee, poured that in the bucket, dumped in the old coffee grounds and left it soaking.

The final “acid test” is now underway; I have the gasket back in place, lid on, ring clamped in place and the empty barrel out baking in the hot sun, opened for daily sniff tests. So far, so good, just a faint coffee odor.

By golly I think I’ve done it, with a lot of help from y’all. Love this board for the shared wisdom folks will offer.

Speaking of which, having spent weeks (take that Glenn) just on salvaging the dang hard black rubber gasket I want to lubricate/preserve it. I’m thinking a coating of silicone lubricant, but am open to recommendations.

This experiment better conclude quickly....I bet a half plate of my wife's legendary chocolate brownies* on whether Mike's concoction (and patience) or LanceR oxy solution....would kill the STANK in these darn barrels

Eat those moldy brownies Southcove, I think we’re stankfully done here.
 
Mike, I haven't forgotten your request to volume check these things. I have graduated pails up to 20L from beer/wine making that I'll use to check them sooner or later. And.... going back to your post #34 "Back to you Lance; pull a gasket from a stanky barrel and ask Nancy to have a whiff. Whadda ya think Nancy?"

When Nancy got a whiff of the gaskets I pulled from the lids she said something about the stink making a buzzard puke......



Returning to the great stanky barrel saga....

So the K.O.E. did the trick, ehh? Well, I'll whistle some up and give it a try. I didn't have much luck with the peroxide-baking soda-Dawn dish detergent mix on the two smelly drums and lids as the smell is less than before but still there after a few hours in the hot sun. Less smell is in the one that had the Oxyclean soak but it is still there. Leaving the lid on in the sun makes the smell stand out more so be sure to try that, too.

But I did solve the gasket issue.

I went on to Master-Carr's website and ordered a 10' piece of 1/2" tubular gasket material made of a Neoprene/EPDM/polyethylene blend (enough for three gaskets for small lids). My thought was that the 1/2" tubular gasket would stay in the tapered groove from friction while being easy to remove for cleaning as needed and that due to it getting compressed over the hollow center by the barrel rim it would fit in place of the 5-16-3/8" gaskets I pictured in post #39 and, hopefully, be somewhat self adjusting for thickness. So far it seals just great. Time will tell whether it needs a little help but at around $4-5 for enough tubular gasket and Neoprene adhesive (to join the cut ends) to make each ring of gasket for the smaller size lids it seems to be a very good deal.

Here's the links to the gasket material and the adhesive....

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3799

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...et-Adhesive-1300/?N=5002385+3293241328&rt=rud

Here's what the gasket looks like....

20200706_185133.jpg

And in the rim of the lid with the loop of gasket installed...

20200708_132626.jpg

I had an old tube of the same adhesive from installing new window and door gaskets in a trio former military trucks our sons and I restored several years ago but decided spring for a new tube of the stuff.....

20200708_132728.jpg

When this saga wraps up we ought to consider a sticky thread with the consolidated knowledge regarding what to check and how to deal with what you find in rehabbing or servicing these barrels. This thread has everything from peeing in lakes (or ground sheets, tents and such), blue speckled bear poop, groovers, minty cat litter, skunk bombed dogs, stinky rod socks (Hey, I'll bet every guy has a pet name for it, ehh?), tuna aphrodisiac in the bedroom, mummified dogs, blue spored mushrooms, the foibles of shipping companies, guard ducks, Yankee frugality, deep sea diving mice, the walrus and egg man, yadda, yadda, yadda. Boy have we covered a lot of ground....errr, water. :rolleyes:

So a consolidated (and focused?) thread might be in order.

Best regards to all,


Lance
 

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I have graduated pails up to 20L from beer/wine making that I'll use to check them sooner or later.

I’ll be curious about what the various barrels measure in liters/gallons equivalents.


So the K.O.E. did the trick, ehh? Well, I'll whistle some up and give it a try. I didn't have much luck with the peroxide-baking soda-Dawn dish detergent mix on the two smelly drums and lids as the smell is less than before but still there after a few hours in the hot sun.

K.O.E is awesome stank eliminator. I over-proofed the solution, and let it sit in the sun for a week +. Did the trick.

I didn’t want to waste the over-proofed K.O.E. in the barrel, so I decanted it into a 5 gallon bucket without a purpose in mind. A week later I needed to do some work on our sump pump. The house has French drains, and I run a dehumidifier into the sump as well, but occasionally the drains smell a little funky. So I poured the remaining K.O.E into the sump, added another 5 gallons of water to partially fill the drains and let it sit for a day before turning the sump pump back on. Success, smell like a laundry room, which the basement also is.

When I eventually finish this bottle of K.O.E I will order more. Thanks Foxyotter, great stuff.


But I did solve the gasket issue.

Well done. If my gasket stank ever renews I will come back to that gasket material suggestion.


This thread has everything from peeing in lakes (or ground sheets, tents and such), blue speckled bear poop, groovers, minty cat litter, skunk bombed dogs, stinky rod socks (Hey, I'll bet every guy has a pet name for it, ehh?), tuna aphrodisiac in the bedroom, mummified dogs, blue spored mushrooms, the foibles of shipping companies, guard ducks, Yankee frugality, deep sea diving mice, the walrus and egg man, yadda, yadda, yadda. Boy have we covered a lot of ground....errr, water.

That to me is one of the beauties of Canoe Tripping threads, the marvelous, often humorous twists and turns.
 



That to me is one of the beauties of Canoe Tripping threads, the marvelous, often humorous twists and turns.

I'm not saying it isn't nice to have other stuff woven into a thread as I've experienced sites where the content Nazi's demanded that nothing off topic leak into a thread and they were at times pretty stifling. My concern, if that's not too strong a word, is for the person looking for info to help with a barrel issue would perhaps not wade through five pages to get to half a page or a page of pertinent info. Either way though, there's a fair bit of good info buried in the chaff of this thread.

When I get back to the barrels I'll have to give some thought to your thread(s) on barrel seat cushions, tabletops etc.

Best regards to all,


Lance
 
"Brad, quick, smell my finger." Um, no. Nor will I pull it.
"Nasty dang gasket." It figures. Must be some kind of softer semi porous rubber, which seals better but also absorbs whatever too.
"Speaking of which, ... I want to lubricate/preserve it. I’m thinking a coating of silicone lubricant, but am open to recommendations." Good question.
"So far, so good, just a faint coffee odor." Coffee aroma makes a good odiferous disguise, but baking soda better absorbs it to neutralize them. But if it were left up to me I'd much prefer upon unsealing my barrel being greeted with a wafting scent of dark roast than petroleum plastic potpourri. Or errant NPK molecules.
All in all appears like the sweet smell of success?
 
PS... Mike... I tried some Armor All Protectant on an old piece of rubber just now, it soaks in and seems to soften it. And no smell, so bears won't be attracted? Don't know how those trappers got away with hauling all those smelly furs in The Revenant without attracting bears. Guns, probably.. Haven't seen the movie in a while, the grizzly bear attack scene especially. Reminds me of the raccoons at night in Toronto.
 
I'm not saying it isn't nice to have other stuff woven into a thread as I've experienced sites where the content Nazi's demanded that nothing off topic leak into a thread and they were at times pretty stifling.

Vee haf vays of making you talk. Unvortunately zoes vays can’t keep me from zee keyboard while epoxy or paint is zetting up.

When I get back to the barrels I'll have to give some thought to your thread(s) on barrel seat cushions, tabletops etc.

Well, the padded top is nice, for all the footstool and small side table uses previously mentioned.

The folding tabletops – trying my best to avoid conformational bias - are one of my favorite pieces of gear for glamper trips. With the weight at 1lb 11oz for the simple ¼” birch model (and 1lb 2oz for the kevlar foam board version) even non glamper trips.

https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/forum/general-paddling-discussions/diy/69483-%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%E2%80%B9blue-barrel-folding-tabletop-mark-v

Kitchen counter cooking platform? Check. The little mesh bag hold fly-away trash like the tear-off tops of freeze dried meal pouches, emptied oatmeal packs and Starbucks Via foil.

PA060090 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Side table for snacks and drinks? Check.

PA070126 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Cards or chess or checkers, or writing table? Check or checkmate.

PA070124 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The Blowcan Industries lid had a sizable arch to it. With one layer of exercise flooring contact cemented atop it still had a helluva curve, so much that the folding tabletop didn’t seat flat and flush, but was kinda wobbly.

I took a belt sander (and a level) to it. Nice and flat now, but I miss the easily cleaned embossed side

P7090014 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I haven’t used it yet and it’s already grimy just from sitting upside down filled with K.O.E. Now that the initial foam surface has been sanded flat and level I want another layer of exercise flooring, embossed side out for easier cleaning. To the stash of exercise flooring pieces we go.

I don’t want to use the heavily textured exercise flooring, too hard to wipe clean.

P7090016 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I like this less texturally embossed, easier to wipe clean style, and even have a pre-cut circle in among the exercise flooring scrap. Eh, the circle was too small, as were the first couple of scrap squares.

P7090019 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

And this one was jussst right.

P7090021 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

After struggling to remove the snap-on lid a few times I realized I should add arrows on the lid pointing to the lift-lip, as a reminder to orient it at the handles.

P7090026 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The handles on the 38L barrel are lower than on the 45L, and the Velcro straps that hold the tabletop firmly in place didn’t quite reach. A couple of cheap beeners resolved that issue.

P7100029 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The unstanky gasket has a generous coat of silicone lubricant soaking in, and at some point I’ll leak test the barrel again.
 
I haven't done anything with the barrels since my post of the 8th. Among other chores I had some drywall to hang and tape, had to relocate some wiring before closing up the walls and had to move/replace a lot of attic insulation to install a new light fixture and hang two ceiling fans in another room. And I installed an outdoor rain-tight RV outlet for the camper as up to now I'd been using a standard 12 gauge extension cord run under the garage door and wanted to use the proper heavy RV cord for when we need to power the camper up.

Good grief, sometimes I think that even my projects have projects....

I haven't gotten any shipping info from Amazon on the K.O.E. I ordered despite ordering it 4 days ago. We're going camping in the Uwharrie National Forest tomorrow for 3-4 nights (and may get some paddling in as the campground is on a big reservoir and there are also some river put-in sites nearby) so I won't see the K.O.E. until I get back. When/if I am happy with the lack of odor I'll stand the barrels upside down in a pan of K.O.E. solution to get rid of any residual smell at the sealing rim as that is what the stinky gaskets were actually touching and filling the barrels with solution won't keep the knife edge saturated for long and won't do anything for the outside of the rim that was exposed to the gasket either.

Mike, I have a couple dozen of the 2x2' squares of the dark grey diamond plate looking exercise mat you show above and will likely use them for a seat pad. Some nice guy told me where to find them cheap when Wal-mart was blowing them out.

What I might do for a table is up in the air a bit.

Before our pre-sale downsizing binge back at our farmI had a fair bit of "multi-wall" polycarbonate sheet for greenhouse panels and such and it would seem to be good for a tabletop and so that may be my starting point. A clear 5/16" (8mm) thick 2x8' sheet is only $37 USD at Home Depot. And it has the advantage of being very light, impervious to water and only needing cutting to size to be ready to outfit it. A quick pass with a low torch flame will smooth any machining marks.etc.

Best regards to all,


Lance
 
Well, we happened to pass right by the place I got Mike (and my) stanky barrels last January on our way to Uwrharrie National Forest for some camping this week. On the way home this morning I stopped to see if he had any "new" blue barrels and sure enough he did. The last batch were laying about in mid-winter and had been there for a couple of months with the lids off; Some had fallen leaves and pine needles in them mixed with the rainwater and the contents were not far removed from the type of stuff you might see in an abandoned swimming pool. But at $7-8 each I bought ten back then figuring that they'd get used by me, the scout camp or a local scout troop.

Fast forward back to today and the barrels were also outdoors but they had the lids on and were clean inside and out. The vast majority of them were 60L barrels with a few smaller barrels sprinkled in. The price was $8 USD each so I grabbed 5 smaller ones (I already have five 60L barrels). None were anywhere as ripe as the ones Mike and I have been dealing with.

Of the 5 "new" ones ones is a clone of the smaller ones Mike and I have been playing with, three were slightly taller and one was the diameter of a 60L barrel lid and pretty much a cylinder from rim to base. Back at home, I got out a 6-gallon beer making pail that is calibrated in US gallons and a 4 liter pitcher and marked the pail in liters. Then I started filling "new" barrels and the two smaller ones I already had; one identical to Mike's and one a few inches taller.

Some barrels have very small vent holes below the sealing rim in the collar that makes up the neck of the barrel (more on them later) so figuring that the volume has to be measured from below that spot I filled them to the base of the neck.

The clone to Mike's barrel I already had held 32 liters as did one "new" barrel....

20200717_191923.jpg

Three "new" barrels held 35 Liters.......

20200717_191648.jpg

And one taller one I already had and the one "new" barrel the diameter of a 60 L barrel lid held 40 Liters.... The picture doesn't do justice to how much wide the lid of the barrel in the left is. It was the only one of that style there and if there were more I'd have bought them. Very handy indeed. It had a plastic locking ring that seems to lock just fine. I might be a bit concerned about long term durability but I have a few spare 60L lids with steel locking rings.


20200717_192540.jpg

This picture shows the lid diameter difference much better....

20200717_211608.jpg

Among the same volume barrels barrel circumferences varied by and inch or so between different manufacturers as did the heights so there does not appear to be any standard dimension set as long as the nominal volume is available. Lids sizes, uncompressed gasket heights and locking rings seem to be very consistent though. Any loose locking rings I've seen are not locking ring related but are due to gaskets that have "set" and no longer sit at the appropriate height when uncompressed. The tubular gasket shown in post #65 seems to be the answer to that issue (but time will tell.....)

Of note, quite a large proportion of the components of US pharmaceutical products are made in India. Four of the "new" barrels have molded in makers marks from Bangalore (a province in India or Mumbai. These barrels had been sitting outside for a short enough time to be able to read some of the shipping labels and they came from a local pharmaceutical compounding company so no surprises there, ehh?.

Left to right; the taller 40L barrel I already had, the "new" 40L barrel, a 35L barrel and a 32L barrel. If I think of it tomorrow I'll line them up again and plunk a 60L barrel next to them for scale in another picture.....

20200717_193536.jpg

As far as the barrels with vent holes I've found that a good cleaning, a swipe with something like acetone or alcohol to remove any oils and the old pre-adhesive priming with the low torch flame trick followed by a little 100% polyurethane adhesive caulk packed into in the hole seals them as if the holes were never there. The holes appear to be punched with a needle like tool and I wasn't sure how well the adhesive would adhere to the smoothy curved surface and tiny holes. I drilled them out with a small drill bit to ensure clean edges to the hole for better adhesion.

Mike, the squat 40L barrel offers intriguing possibilities as both a more comfortable seat and as a potentially more stable table base . The inside of the rim of the seat is 12" as opposed to around 9-1/2" for the smaller lids. Adding to the category of my projects that have their own projects, I'll contact the pharmaceutical company and see if I can get more of that size directly from them.

Best regards to all,


Lance
 

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In one of the barrel threads someone mentioned that blue barrels come in all manner of shapes and sizes. I didn’t doubt it then, and now know it to be true.

In this thread alone we have barrels in a variety of shapes and sizes, with volume approximations:

60L/16 gallon
45L/12 gallon
40L/10.5 gallon
35L/9.25 gallon
32L/8.5 galllon
30L/8 galllon
20L/5 gallon

It’s the wide world of barrels out there. “And this porridge is just right”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldilocks_principle

The squat 40L barrel offers intriguing possibilities as both a more comfortable seat and as a potentially more stable table base

You can tell I am smitten with the luxury of the blue barrel folding tabletops, and the table stability of the folding tops on the 45L and 60L barrels is more than acceptable.

I am hesitant to use any of our barrels as a bear-my-full-weight seat. In part because I am sure that would further compress the gasket seal, and in part because the bottoms of our non-potrage-pack barrels already show some nicks and scrapes in the plastic from scraping around on rocky sites.

The oft used 45L is nicked and scraped at the base to the point where I have considered contact cementing a circle of protective (floaty) exercise flooring on the bottom. I still wouldn’t sit full weight on them, but as a sacrificial rock scraping foot stool ottoman that exercise foam layer might be worthwhile.

Lance, a challenge for you, or anyone else of cunning design mind; I do love those folding barrel “counter tops”, but even cut to fit inside the barrel they need to slip inside vertically, and are a PITA to pack inside until the barrel is half empty. If you use cylindrical barrel organizers (I use stuff bags) that folding tabletop inset would be impossible to store inside the barrel.

A quad-folded/hinged/connected-together-somehow table top, like four right angle pieces of pie, that could fit inside the packed barrel horizontally resting on top would be a huge boon. Open the barrel, first thing accessible is the folding table.

Get on that design challenge will ya; I want me one that fits folded flat horizontally inside the barrel.
 
Mike, what are the rough dimensions of your existing table tops? And have you given thought to a slat top that rolls up and drops into your chair bag? Offhand I can think of, ohh, 4-5 ways to make one that's rigid enough and heat resistant enough to cook on.

Best regards,


Lance
 
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Mike, what are the rough dimensions of your existing tops?

(Error on my part here, I thought Lance meant barrel tops. I already measured so, and the diameter of the lid opening does come into play with the folding tabletops, so. . . . .)

Measuring the interior barrel opening diameters with the lids off:
60L – 12 5/8” dia
45L – 9 3/8” dia
38L – 9 ½” dia

Er, wait, you meant rough dimensions of the folding table tops. They are both circles with two “sides” cut straight, so when folded they fit inside the barrels openings. The 60L folding table top is a 25 ¾” circle, straight cut on two sides down to 23 ¾”. The 45L table top is a 19 ¾” circle straight cut on two sides down to 17 ¼”.

When folded in half the 60L top is just under 12” wide, the 45L top is around 8 ¾” wide and fit easily inside the barrel openings.

And have you given thought to a slat top that rolls up and drops into your chair bag? Offhand I can think of, ohh, 4-5 ways to make one that's rigid enough and heat resistant enough to cook on.

I hadn’t, but that has potential and it could be rolled up and inserted inside the barrel vertically much more easily than my rigid folders. For my cooking needs heat resistance is unnecessary, at most I am heating water in a Jetboil.

Some possible caveats with a slat top design:

It would be handy if the assembly (stiffening struts?) were quick and easy to attach/detach. I wouldn’t want to be monkying around assembling parts and pieces and oops I dropped a wing nut in the pine duff where did it go?

I like the easily cleanable one-hinged-seam varnished surface of the folding tops, and wouldn’t want crumbs and oatmeal dribbles lodged between multiple slats. But my folders don’t fit in a food filled barrel worth a dang, and always start outside the barrel.

If the slats had some flexible covering attached that might be a boon. Maybe one of those silicone grill mats; those are impervious to heat, easy to clean and roll up well. There is already one inside each barrel to use on the Trench grill or a rusty car camping fire grate.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nonstick-...yABEgIBxvD_BwE

A roll-up slatted top might be lighter, and could be made wider, if limited in one dimension by the interior height of the barrel. Well, limited by how unstable the barrel might become with an oversized tabletop attached. The 45L and 60L barrels are pretty stable platforms with their respective tabletops, even when the barrel is largely empty of food weight.

If you make one I’ll be interested to see what you come up with slat-wise. The folding table tops I made went from a crude (heavy) plywood & Lauan Mark 1, to less crude but still heavy ½ birch Mark II, to lighter still ¼” birch Mark III, to the kevlar foam board Mark IV.
 
I just filled the two formerly stanky and now only slightly odorous barrels with K.O.E. solution for a soak over the few next days. And as I had mixed up the "old" lids with the "new" lids I put all of them along with any gaskets into the 40L wide mouth barrel and submerged them in solution, too. Of note: one of the "new" lids had a gasket of tubular foam glued end to end into a ring so that confirms that my tubular gasket idea is at least going in the right direction.

Now back to table tops....and yes, I edited my last post to add "table" to "tops". Sorry for any confusion.

A slat top could be supported by a pair of slats under the top and perpendicular to the roll of slats and any number of ways to attach them to the top, some without hardware, might work. My thought was to glue a piece of either waterproof canvas, pack cloth or vinyl coated fabric to the slats and use the top with the fabric facing up. In your case, a rolled up table top could be put into the barrel and put against the side of the barrel a la a foam sleeping mat lining a pack. That might avoid getting in your CCS barrel bag's way. In my case I'd likely just roll it and stick it in a chair bag.

Over the years I've used a lot of tambour in plastic, aluminum and wood and have made it in wood for several projects. My first preference would thin wall round cornered aluminum rectangular tube like I used to make trade show sales displays from but finding something at a reasonable cost will be tough. Wood would need to be well sealed on all sides to have a reasonable chance of staying flat.

Come to think of it, I can get cypress locally and maybe sealing that would be less of an issue than the woods I'm used to for tambour. Maybe I'll grab a board and rip some slats this week or next. I have pack cloth and canvas fabric on hand.

Best regards to all,


Lance
 
I just filled the two formerly stanky and now only slightly odorous barrels with K.O.E. solution for a soak over the few next days.

About the K.O.E solution solution; I had washed, Doug D magic mix scrubbed, vinegar & baking soda soaked the stanky barrel six ways to Sunday before the first fill with overproofed K.O.E went in.

I let that barrel of K.O.E solution sit in the sun for several days, and the water that sloshed out when I moved it to full sun was mildly stinky, so I emptied and refilled it with fresh and let it sit in the hot sun for another week.

I may have overproofed the second batch a bit too much, the barrel had no urea fertilizer stank when I emptied it, but sure smelled like a coin-op laundry mat for the next week of lid-off airing out. Still faintly does.

I have since used that K.O.E for several things. Used it up in fact, and ordered more. I’m a believer.

I have a potential source for blue barrels. If successful I’ll post the local-to-me repository.
 
Well folks, as a fairly new member here I just stumbled across this thread, and may I say (as an admin and mod on several forums and Facebook groups) that this is one of the single most informative and entertaining threads I've read in a while.

Now to go try to remove the medicinal stink from my barrels I picked up cheaply!

With many thanks,

Scott
 
“Well folks, as a fairly new member here I just stumbled across this thread, and may I say (as an admin and mod on several forums and Facebook groups) that this is one of the single most informative and entertaining threads I've read in a while.”

“Now to go try to remove the medicinal stink from my barrels I picked up cheaply!”


Scott, there was a lot of trial and error and time, and some minor expense, spent on that de-stankification, and it would have been easier to find a new barrel. But I liked the oddball 38L size, as is often the case I learned a lot. As usual, as much from the failures as the eventual success.

K.O.E (thanks again Foxyotter) is amazing stuff, the only thing that actually worked on that embedded urea odor; the stench was in the plastic, but the thick gasket material was the most stubborn and stinkiest, requiring a long, over-proofed K.O.E soak.

https://www.amazon.com/Thornell-KOE...1&sr=1-1-5e1b2986-06e6-4004-a85e-73bfa3ee44fe

Worth every penny. I’m on my second bottle. We had an ancient and ailing cat that would walk past the litter box to piss on the concrete shop floor. b*tch.

I worked on an old, long unused Dagger Piccolo that had a decade’s worth of mouse piss reeking inside. Like the stinky blue barrel it smelled so bad I couldn’t leave it in the shop without gagging.

K.O.E to the rescue again. It does smell, strongly at first, like a coin-op laundry. Still better than cat or mouse piss.

Please report your results. Sniff your gaskets. Smell my finger.
 
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