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Poll: What percent of the time do you use a double blade paddle solo?

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    Originally posted by Glenn MacGrady View Post
    Since I have the same two paddles as Mr. McCrea, I broke quarantine and used them in one of my old river boats on my local Housatonic River. I had no problem controlling the canoe in moderate rapids and winds, using either on-side correction strokes, for which the animal tail paddle was better, or sit & switch strokes, for which the pizza paddle was was easier to flip.


    Glenn, I do think we should have a single blade paddle-off with those sticks, but it would be unfair to make you use the much heavier, short, squat pizza-paddle. We really should be using near identical single paddles, so for you:


    P5070001 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

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      Mr MCC those sticks with the variable grip should go to devotees of the Northwoods Stroke. Just Sayin

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        Originally posted by Glenn MacGrady View Post
        Since I have the same two paddles as Mr. McCrea, I broke quarantine and used them in one of my old river boats on my local Housatonic River. I had no problem controlling the canoe in moderate rapids and winds, using either on-side correction strokes, for which the animal tail paddle was better, or sit & switch strokes, for which the pizza paddle was was easier to flip.

        Glenn

        Question about the Mohawk, I have an XL14 with the same seat hanger, in mine the seat sits on top of the hanger flange while yours is underneath the flange. Did yours come that way or did you adjust it yourself?

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          Originally posted by recped View Post

          Glenn

          Question about the Mohawk, I have an XL14 with the same seat hanger, in mine the seat sits on top of the hanger flange while yours is underneath the flange. Did yours come that way or did you adjust it yourself?
          I don't own a Mohawk. The seat in the picture is, I assume, one of Mike McCrea's canoes.

          Nonetheless, I don't see why you couldn't put the seat on top of the flange to make it higher or under the flange to make it lower. You could increase the heightening or lowering by using washers or other shims between the flange and bolts.

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            Mohawk’s seat design on those aluminum hangers came with four 1” tall hard plastic spacers per seat. The (good) concept was that the buyer could put the spacers on top of the flange lip for a higher seat, directly on the flange for 1” lower, directly under the flange lip for ¾” lower or with the spacer under the flange lip for lowest.

            Or use two washers for some cant angle in the seat. Easy and effective.

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              Thanks Mike, the one I have came from the factory with no spacers and the seat on top of the flange. I was the second owner but my friend who bought it new didn't alter it and only used it for one trip before he had a desperate need for quick cash.

              It was bought in 2013 so one of the very last boats they made and it was somewhat customized at the factory (wood thwarts and solo outfitting), probably at that point they were just working with leftover components and some "spare" sheets of Royalex.

              I bought another somewhat older one last year, it had the standard aluminum thwarts and came with two pedestals.

              Back on the topic, I'm with Glenn, if conditions mean that a DB is a big advantage it's a sign that a layover day is called for!

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