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What stove for Hot Tent

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Oct 28, 2013
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Northern New Jersey
I have been researching stoves for a Hot Tent setup and I am torn between a heavy steel stove with an airtight door gasket or a lighter thinner gauge steel stove with no airtight door. The Three dog stove which I would have ordered is not available so not my choices are between a Kni-co Alaskan or Alaskan Jr. at 32lb. and a Wilderness 3, at 56lb plus pipe and side table.
Besides the weight, pros and cons please.
http://www.packsaddleshop.com/campingstovewood.html
 
What size and design of tent will you be using?

The legs on the kni-co are much more user friendly in bush conditions that the spindly legs on the other one. They look more suited to a solid wooden floor or when there is a good level earth floor. Kni-co legs can be set on log floats on the snow, but maybe that isn't an issue for you.
 
My stove is lighter thinner gauge steel with no airtight door. It's almost the same size as the Alaskan Jr , 12" wide by 16" deep but my firebox is only 8" high vs. the 12" on the Jr.
My stove was originally 12x12x24 which turned out to be too big for my cut down wall tent. I ended up cutting it down twice to it's present size and I went with a 4" pipe rather than the 5" pipe it came with.

Besides the weight, which at 15 lbs is really nice, I like the compact size when in transit, either by toboggan or in my canoe. I never sleep with the stove on so I really save on firewood and when I need heat that little stove throws out some heat.
This spring in early April it was in the mid 20's in the overnight at Lows Lake and I was eating breakfast with the front door open on the tent, admiring the view while the stove kept it toasty warm inside.
I don't know the size of your tent and how much heat you will need, that could be the deciding factor.
Bigger stoves are better for cooking on with more surface, so if you plan on big meals or groups the smaller stove might be an issue. If solo the smaller stove has plenty of room for two pots or a large frying pan.
 
+1 on what Robin was saying & asking. First, what size tent are you planning on? Where and what temps are you going to camp in? How many folks do you plan to have sleep in the tent? How long are your planned trips? How far from the car do you think you have to move the stove?

I have an Alaskan Jr ,I believe, it will heat up a 9x12' short wall tent from 0F to 30F pretty quickly & efficiently. But it also loses heat quickly and would require lots of patience to keep it burning through the night. I also have a Colorado Cylinder Stoves, a bit smaller but I think it might be more efficient. Weight wise it's noticeably heavier and bulkier than the Kni-Co (think your weights as noted are too heavy) and I have to have two full runners under the legs to keep it from sinking into snow. With the Kni-Co I have runners as well but they are half the size at least.

There are a number of other stove manufacturers with their own adherents, virtues, vices, price ranges and even some folders (like Ti-Goat or Riley) that folks swear by for lighter weights and packability.
 
The tent is a 12x12 Magnum Spike Kamp. The worst case would probably be in the single digits, It would probably be just 2-3 guys inside for sleeping and I would be fine sleeping in my hammock nearby. If they want to tend it all night, good for them. Sounds like the smaller lightweight would be a better choice.
 
We have a kni-co/snowtrekker medium( I think) and it is a great stove down to -20-25C. Below that I wish I had a bit bigger stove...
We just bought a used Fourdog Ti stove, the Ultra light 1, not bigger than our steel stove, but I hope to be alright and the 40% saving on weight will be nice!
 
BC You definitely need the AK Deluxe Package with the table and the water tank, I'm not sure you'd fit in your Prism, but if you're going to get a stove, GO DELUXE!
 
For years winter camping down to minus 20 I have used a 30$ folding sheet metal box stove I got from sportsmens guide. I think it was called a sheep herders stove. Other camper friends have many commercial and homemade heavy stoves and I never envied them. I don't fold mine, I sealed it with hi temp silicone and put the pipes inside. I sheet metal will boil water MUCH better than a thick walled one and is much lighter.
Turtle
 
Been winter camping for over 40 years and used or seen many stoves in that time. Performance wise there's really little difference between heavy and light gauge steel. It's not like in a cabin where, after the first warm-up, each load is only used to raise the temperature 5-10 degrees. Every load in the stove is like the first warm-up. Regardless of the weight, that stove will return to ambient temperature within a few minutes once the fire goes out.
I find airtight stoves throw less heat, so they need to run wide open anyway, which defeats the purpose. A decent lightweight stove will throw more heat right away, and with a good damper and air intake can be throttled back for a longer burn. I run a 13"x13"x20" in my 8x12 wall tent and found it barely adequate for -40, it was maybe 50 degrees at the back wall, but with a full load of hardwood would burn for about 4-5 hours if I kept the damper about 1/4 open.
Whatever route you go, your sleep system should be good for at least the coldest you can reasonably expect just in case the stove goes out or you run out of wood in the night- I personally put in a load before going to bed and throttle the stove right back- I don't like the idea of a stove roaring away while I sleep!
 
BC You definitely need the AK Deluxe Package with the table and the water tank, I'm not sure you'd fit in your Prism, but if you're going to get a stove, GO DELUXE!
You would be surprised with what I can fit in my Prism. I fit. Thanks I was considering the Deluxe package, and if I order from snowtrekker, they have custom snow float legs, but do not offer the side tank. I will have to ask them they have the brackets to add one.
 
people use various methods to deal with supporting the stove over snow. Some bring a large metal tray to set it on. I prefer 2 lightweight two long legged stands made from steel round stock. One at the front one at the rear. I drive them through the snow into the ground. This not only supports the stove, but secures it from moving and makes an easy method of leveling it. I have 2 diagonal rods attached to them that support one side of a handy shelf which attaches to the stove.
Turtle
 
You would be surprised with what I can fit in my Prism. I fit. Thanks I was considering the Deluxe package, and if I order from snowtrekker, they have custom snow float legs, but do not offer the side tank. I will have to ask them they have the brackets to add one.

Yes I've seen what you fit in your Prism and I'm impressed.
 
For you that canoe with a wood stove, how do you make sure it wont sink in case of capsize? I had the Packer I think in our Snowtrekker exp shortwall. It held fire nicely and almost made it overnight..
 
For you that canoe with a wood stove, how do you make sure it wont sink in case of capsize? I had the Packer I think in our Snowtrekker exp shortwall. It held fire nicely and almost made it overnight..

We tie in everything when traveling, other than if we are on a small calm lake. Also I cary the stove in a Cordura bag, so if it ever get loose, it would take a wile before it sink to the bottom!!
 
people use various methods to deal with supporting the stove over snow. Some bring a large metal tray to set it on. I prefer 2 lightweight two long legged stands made from steel round stock. One at the front one at the rear. I drive them through the snow into the ground. This not only supports the stove, but secures it from moving and makes an easy method of leveling it. I have 2 diagonal rods attached to them that support one side of a handy shelf which attaches to the stove.
Turtle
I like the sound of what you are talking about...the stove 'sinking' through layers of snow and ice, making for at least a 1x a day reset of the position and level... I use two float boards under the stove, w a fiberglass mat under all and some reflectors under and around the stove to work the heat a bit more effectively... in this case was too effectively!
DSC03329.JPG

Could you post a pic of your float set up? In use or separate from your set up is fine .
 
If I were to take the stove for a paddling trip, I would probably use the sundowner. This would be mainly for winter camping and hopefully an ice out gathering in the spring with Robin and company. Hint Hint.
 
Southcove all I can envision is my slipping on your floor and landing on a hot stove. Ow. Spruce boughs really work.. or carpet grab mesh under minicell flooring blocks if you are seeking to improve your flooring.

There is this legality thing..spruce boughs are useful and often illegal
 
Southcove all I can envision is my slipping on your floor and landing on a hot stove. Ow. Spruce boughs really work.. or carpet grab mesh under minicell flooring blocks if you are seeking to improve your flooring.

There is this legality thing..spruce boughs are useful and often illegal


Absolutely, in fact each of the three of us on that trip, along w the dog had a brush w the stove and the bottom flap of the ST, it was an ice skating rink for sure...that way from day two -day four. Burned all the way down the ground and that w with no overnight running of the stove. ST sells yet another gadget that fits under the stove that might work better than my aluminum pan (otherise, used to collect clean snow for melting).

Right now where we base camp gets heavily used during the summer and in any case no live cutting allowed in NYS. But your idea of the mesh has merit...just a matter of time until someone really makes a muck-up of things! We tried a largish entry mat one time and should have/could have pegged it down...it also moved around quite a bit.

I am already guilty of being a overpacker of all things, so anything I can leave home and off the sled is a good thing.
 
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