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The Tichegami Odyssey

Joined
Jun 25, 2022
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Location
South Bristol, Maine
Put-in minus 3 days: Friday, July 10, 2026: It became evident in the morning hours that there would be no pining goodbyes for me from my wife. So, with little fanfare, I departed South Bristol for points north in the vicinity of 1pm. First to Damariscotta for block ice and gas, and then, by 2pm, I was truly off. I followed the convenient straight line north that connects mid-coast Maine to Quebec City and further, to Lac St Jean. With no drama or incident worth retelling, I managed to get to a motel at the southern end of Lac St Jean by about 9:30pm. I girded myself with a gas station sandwich and salad, a little rye, and off to bed.

Put-in minus 2 days: On the road again at 8am with Esso coffee, I was early enough to make good time around the Lake and hook up with 167 north. I was in Chibougamau by noon, stopped at the Maxi for a dozen eggs and beef jerky; gassed up; and had a killer poutine breakfast at Raymonde's. The Route du Norde was deserted on this particular Saturday afternoon - I scarcely saw another vehicle for the 3.5 hour trip to our take-out. The gravel was in great shape and sustaining ~50mph was no problem. I got to the take-out at the reservoir about 4:30pm, and realizing Ben would be more than awhile, I settled in. It was hot, not a shady tree to be seen, so I had to keep moving my chair to find the shadiest side of the Subaru. I finished a LaCarre novel, threw a few casts into the lake, and held off on pouring a drink until 7:30! I had a message from Ben on the inreach from his position on the QC/ON border sometime earlier that morning, but it was unclear if he was moving on from there or just stopping there. I set up my tent, sorted some odds and ends of gear, started a new book, and had a few more sips of rye. Not wanting to dip into the trip food supplies, I went without supper, and settled for a cigar and some more rye. I'm sure I fell asleep in my chair, was probably roused by a loon, and put myself to bed. I remember waking in my tent to headlights and tires on gravel - the sound of a voice haranguing me... was that a lion I saw...? Rip VanWinkle..? Had ICE come to the Rupert Reservoir..? What fresh hell was this...?
 
Friday July 10:

My plan was to leave Toronto mid-afternoon and hope to avoid the worst of the usual traffic along with the hordes going north to cottage country. On Thursday I had managed to get mostly packed and complete some last minute repairs to my Mohawk XL14. With some final food shopping still needed I postponed my departure to 8:00pm.

The 8:00pm concept got ditched rather quickly, decided to have dinner at home, then load, then leave at whatever time it was. The odds of having any chance of beating VA Paddler to the take out were essentially zero but just maybe I could get there before dark Saturday evening.

At 12:30am I was on my way at last, traffic was relatively light and the temperature had dropped to a tolerable level. Distance to the take out is 1350km. Google thinks I can make it in 14.5 hours but I know better, I'll need to make at least a few stops for food and fuel and I have scoped out a few places I can stop to get a few hours sleep in the back of my Tacoma.

Around 6:00am I pulled in to the scenic lookout just south of Temiskaming Shores (New Liskeard), I decided to stay there for a few hours. My sleeping pad and blanket were ready so I passed out for about 4 hours. I had a quick "breakfast" (sandwiches from home) before heading in to town for gas and to pick up a few things from Dollarama (extra mosquito coils and sunscreen) then I was off to the Quebec border. In Rouyn-Noranda (a place I've passed through a few times) there was a lot of construction and detours so while I did not get "lost" as I have before I did waste about 15 minutes going around in circles. Back on the correct route I headed north to Matagami for another fill up of gas then on to the relatively newly named Rte. Billy - Diamond (used to be simply The James Bay Highway).

This road is paved all the way to Radisson and the La Grande Reservoir and Hydro-Electric project but I would be turning off at the Route du Nord which is 407km of "gravel" (more sand than gravel in places). I arrived at the turn off just before sunset, being late in the day and a Saturday I hoped that traffic would be sparse and what there was would be cars rather than big trucks. The initial 107km section from the pavement to the Cree community Nemaska is the least used, although it's mostly flat and straight. Official speed limit here is 70kmph, while the road is smooth there are a lot of soft spots to avoid all the more difficult as darkness arrives. I encountered one small car, one pickup truck, a fuel tanker and an ambulance (plus dozens of rabbits crossing the road...I hit NONE!). I had hoped to refuel at the Eastmain Hydro Generating Station but was too late, fortunately I was carrying about 30 liters in jerry cans which should be enough. After passing Eastmain the road improved somewhat with obvious signs of more heavy use especially during the the fairly recent Rupert River Diversion project.

I missed my turn off but realized it fairly quickly, turning back I found the turn off and soon arrived at the gravel parking lot. VA's Subaru was parked, his tent was pitched but all was quiet. I yelled out but the only response was incoherent mumbling in the dark but soon my trip partner emerged. We chatted for a bit, discussed the likelihood of getting on the river tomorrow (I was doubtful) before VA when back to his tent and I passed out in the back of Taco.

Tomorrow we will drive one vehicle south to Chibougamau (food & fuel) and head north on Rte 167 to the put-in. It will be another long day of driving on mostly gravel roads.
 
Sunday, July 12
With a hazy recollection that it was unlikely we would do all the driving and get on the river, it seemed less imperative to arise with alacrity. I think I snoozed through seven or eight alarms and it wasn't until Zeppelin was playing When the Levee Breaks that I finally crawled out of the rye haze and woke Ben. With no coffee or tea to fortify us, we began the brutal job of consolidation into/onto the Outback. I was doubtful we were going to manage it, but we did, and didn't even need to strap bags into the boats. We were road warriors again around the crack of 11am. Back to town, refill the gas tank, a visit to the golden arches (about the only thing open), a quick call to my girls back home, and we were off again - this time straight up 167. At the turn off to the town of Mistassini, the road becomes gravel again, but it was in good repair the whole rest of the way.
Ben and I chatted about our expectations for our immediate future, speculated about many of the unknowns that lay ahead, and here and there drifted into comfortable silence. In those moments of quiet, I day dreamed about the trip ahead and imagined the multitude of comfortable sandy beaches we'd camp on, the cozy little fires we'd cook over, the croquet games we'd play at our leisure, the sun we'd be basking in as our boats floated downstream on the current with hardly a stroke to coax them, and the bushels of walleye I'd be fileting for our suppers. ...sigh...
The road took us higher and higher into the Otish mountains - the scenery was quite stunning - like taiga - open, rocky, misty, a feeling you were at the top of the world. The road seemed to stretch out ahead of us and be constantly climbing up and up and up - until it plunged down into the valley of the Tichegami.
We got to the put-in neighborhood about 7pm; checked out the access at the bridge and developed a plan for the put-in; then headed up the road about 500m to a pull-off where we could camp for the night. The put-in was very boney - but we thought maybe there was a little more float-ability down there where it went around the bend... Back at the pull-off we set up the pod as the black flies were awful, and snacked and organized gear and got excited about the morning.
 
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