There will be a plywood deck covering the forward floatation chamber and the partner, and extending on the sides about 12" aft of the partner. Here I am making a pattern for the deck using a "Joggle stick." I will explain joggle sticks in a later post, but right now it is past my bedtime.
I used the joggle stick and marking board to lay out the curves on the sides of the deck. I have become smart enough to make a mockup from cheap underlayment, before cutting expensive marine plywood.
Then I cut out the deck mockup. I used a circular saw with a brand new sharp plywood blade to cut the curves -- a circular saw does not always have to cut straight. The sabre saw in the photo was used only to make notches for the stem and #1 frame.
Now it's time to make the breasthook, a major structural member that holds the bow of the boat together. After much trial and error with mockups, I decided to follow Greg Rossel's instructions from his book, Building Small Boats. I made a simple jig and glued up a breasthook blank made from 5/4 yellow pine stair tread.
I used a router to cut an arc on the aft edge of the breasthook, same as with the deck. I also used a router to round over and bevel the aft edge, to prevent injury if someone contacted it accidentally.
Remember those model airplane kit instructions that said, "Paint all parts before assembly?" At last, a primer coat on the boat interior.....
I also primed the undersides of the breasthook, deck, mast partner, and miscellaneous small parts. After two finish coats of paint, they will be ready to install.
Mast Partner Mark I was cut from an ash board made from a tree on our property that was killed by the Emerald Ash Borer. The tree was crooked and had a lot of bound up stresses. When I cut a hole for the mast, the board twisted badly. The 2 thwart pieces were made from the same tree, but did not have the serious twist.
Mast Partner Mark II installed, made from a straight grained piece of Philippine Mahogany.
Finish coat of paint partly on interior of boat. The sole will receive non-skid paint, but I will wait until the after part of the sole is glassed. Gluing with PL Premium now; much less muss and fuss than epoxy.