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Poll: Survey of Portage Pack Bracket Solution for Carrying Canoes on Hiking Pack

Are you interested in a internal frame backpack bracket for easy portaging of a cannoe?

  • Yes

    Votes: 2 6.7%
  • Maybe

    Votes: 7 23.3%
  • No

    Votes: 21 70.0%

  • Total voters
    30
In the West we don't portage much, but line boats on occasion.
For the lakes country with deranged drainages, and lots of portages it seems like a great idea. Anything longer than about 100 rods it would be a nice thing to have. It is not traditional but it could catch on fast. Kevlar boats make portaging easier.
 
Having a comfortable yoke on a lightish canoe solves any portage problems for me. So no, I am very happy with my current situation of carrying canoe with a day pack. I understand that this pack bracket could be a practical solution for lacking a yoke but I think simply focusing on a better yoke is the real solution.
Also, if this were to enable for carrying capacity (per se) then also I am in no need of that. Volumnous portage packs solve that.
Being in a bum's rush hurry goes against the very raison d'être of tripping, for me.
But I welcome any design engineer working towards a eureka moment "Why didn't I think of that!?"
 
It looks like these were on portage packs or external frame packs. Do you know if they were able to be fitted on a internal frame pack?
Not in this configuration. it is definitely an external rigid frame with a waterproof dry bag custom fitted to it. it does work very well on solo or tandem (C2) canoes. At one time there was even a kayak portage attachment for it, not of any interest to me or most here.

Normally, if your canoe has a center thwart at or very near the balance point, the canoe tip/tilt is well enough balanced and controlled with a hand line at your hip that goes from bow to stern. Since the Hornbeck does not have a center thwart at the balance point, I had to make my own shaped aluminum tubing attachment that attaches to the wood gunwales for a slightly high bow carry position with bolts and quick attach finger nuts, plus a light stabilizer bar going from bottom of frame pack to a point on gunwale near the stern . It gives me a rigid mount that stays put overhead and keeps both hands free as I walk. I can transform from being on water to full portage mode or back from portage to paddling within five minutes.
 
I voted no. It looks clever and likely works very well. However, my main pack is is a large duffle sack that I tump. My lunch portage pack is small and light enough to carry while portaging my canoe. My packs with out a frame fit well in the canoe and the small one molds to my back and is comfortable … enough.

Bob.
 
Most of my trips are in a 22lb ultralight pack canoe that sits very lightly on my shoulders/packstraps when the dis-assembled double paddle is used as a yoke.

But if I portaged a traditional tandem canoe, yeah maybe... the KnuPack was the former solution. But the pack must solve both problems; portaging AND being a well-made, practical bag.

In my experience, frame packs don't fit well in canoes... there's always something sticking out somewhere that's in the way. This is why the traditional canoe packs are simply soft bags with shoulder and head straps.... they just 'fit' wherever you have to stash them.

Personally, I prefer a sack with no internal compartments or extras (like a 'hydration system hanger' or 'hose outlet'; these are merely extra dead weight.) A waist strap is helpful if the load is over 25lbs, which it probably would be in this case. There MUST be 3 external pockets: one on each side capable of holding a 1qt Gatorade bottle plus a sneaker/hiking shoe, about 14-15" deep, with a roller-buckled flap and drainage grommet in the bottom, and 'pass-through' space behind it (like a Bergen's Norwegian army pack), and one larger central pocket for use as a 'junk drawer', with two high quality ROLLER buckles.

I'd also like that pack to have a flap with LONG straps, like a traditional portage pack, so you can stick your life jacket and rain gear under it easily. That flap also needs to be two-layered, with a velcro seal along the lower edge, for maps. If you couldn't do the pass-behind pockets (for axes), then an axe loop under the flap might be useful, but you can always just tie the ax/hatchet to the frame, especially if you do 2x side straps over each pocket.

The frame needs no real explanation, but the shoulder straps MUST be able to be adjusted, not just in length, but from dead center outwards. Look at the Bergen's, and look at a 19th century/early 20th century soldier's pack. Notice how the Bergen's comes from the middle (properly), and the soldier's packs generally pull the bejesus out of your shoulders because they are set too widely apart. Most European military web gear, and the old US Alice system, works like this; it's called a Y harness. The H harness hurts.

I personally would prefer it all in leather/canvas, not nylon. Pack capacity in my case would need to be about 60-70L.

You might also survey folks on whether or not they wanted a frame-mounted dry bag with a roll top, like the SealLine Black Canyon. Personally think that would be too heavy (probably 6-7lbs).

Just for comparison, I use an old Go Lite Gust (22oz) with a 25L dry bag inside (12oz) for a total pack weight of just over 2lbs... my total weight of gear and food for 5-6 days is about 55-60lbs, including my worn clothing, gear to include saw and hatchet, pack, canoe, fishing gear, and rubber boots. Not willing to add 3-5 more lbs to that just for a frame and bag.
 
Seeker, my Knupac fits very well under a custom spray cover I made for my 10.5' 15 pound carbon hybrid Hornbeck. A rolled thermarest is normally attached to one outside of the pack and a small pocket bag of items to the other. it all fits nicely tucked behind my seat while paddling. You can see how the cover fits over the frame in the photo below. This is how I traveled 185 miles on a diagonal SW to NE route across the Adiondacks from one side to the other. I normally have a couple of dry bags with food and other items that I remove from the pack and place under my knees and toward the bow for weight trim while I am paddling.

1705873900321.png
 
Top 'O the Christmas morning everyone.

Regarding this thread, I have an external frame from my XL Kelty Tioga pack available. The bag itself has become a bit brittle over time but everything is serviceable and the frame is great - Knu Pack in someone's future? I believe it has a brand new set of shoulder straps.

Chick also has an external frame Kelty that might work.

I will dig these out of the basement and upload a pic. They are free to a good home, but will be looking for a shipping reimbursement for these bad boys, unless you are somewhat close to Rochester NY.
I still have the Kelty frame if someone is interested. Was going to send it to Mr. Poling, but NY to NC was just about $100 in freight so that didn't make sense.

Let me know!
 
and 'pass-through' space behind it (like a Bergen's Norwegian army pack)

but the shoulder straps MUST be able to be adjusted, not just in length, but from dead center outwards. Look at the Bergen's, and look at a 19th century/early 20th century soldier's pack. Notice how the Bergen's comes from the middle (properly)

 
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