G
Guest
Guest
My preference for gunwale oil has long been the DIY mix of 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 boiled linseed oil and /13 spar varnish. It works well, is easy to apply and seems to penetrate and protect. That belief may be colored by the fact that it is cheap, readily available and a good use for the last dregs of varnish destined to solidify in the can.
The turpentine and linseed oil will eventually dissolve even a hockey puck of old varnish, and the can in my shop has become a mystery mix, having had the last dregs of tung oil, lemon oil and etc what the heck dumped into the can.
But it isn’t worth buying spar varnish just to make that mix, and the turpentine is on the stinky side (I add a dollop more turp to the initial coat).
I have not been impressed with Gunwale Guard; it seemed the least effective of the oils I have tried. I did one set of virgin ash gunwales with (real) Tung oil. It held up well, but the gunwales developed some black splotches over time, which may have been an incorrect application or preparation on my part.
I know Watco is popular, but I’m not sure which one (Watco Teak?). I have used Watco exterior and was not terribly impressed with the application. It had a long dry to recoat time even in a warm shop, and got kinda sticky messy if recoated too soon.
Deks Olje? I have never used it, or even seen it in a store, but have heard good things, including that it can be recoated a couple times a day.
I am curious what gunwale oil folks use, and their oiling procedures.
One specific question. I have always oiled gunwales in a warm(ed) shop and kept it warm as the coats dried. In a warm shop I can get two coats of the turp/linseed/varnish mix on each day, one morning/one evening, but that is still a considerable multi-day heating bill just to oil some gunwales.
How do oil treatments fair if applied in cold temperatures?
The turpentine and linseed oil will eventually dissolve even a hockey puck of old varnish, and the can in my shop has become a mystery mix, having had the last dregs of tung oil, lemon oil and etc what the heck dumped into the can.
But it isn’t worth buying spar varnish just to make that mix, and the turpentine is on the stinky side (I add a dollop more turp to the initial coat).
I have not been impressed with Gunwale Guard; it seemed the least effective of the oils I have tried. I did one set of virgin ash gunwales with (real) Tung oil. It held up well, but the gunwales developed some black splotches over time, which may have been an incorrect application or preparation on my part.
I know Watco is popular, but I’m not sure which one (Watco Teak?). I have used Watco exterior and was not terribly impressed with the application. It had a long dry to recoat time even in a warm shop, and got kinda sticky messy if recoated too soon.
Deks Olje? I have never used it, or even seen it in a store, but have heard good things, including that it can be recoated a couple times a day.
I am curious what gunwale oil folks use, and their oiling procedures.
One specific question. I have always oiled gunwales in a warm(ed) shop and kept it warm as the coats dried. In a warm shop I can get two coats of the turp/linseed/varnish mix on each day, one morning/one evening, but that is still a considerable multi-day heating bill just to oil some gunwales.
How do oil treatments fair if applied in cold temperatures?