Oil for wood gunwales

[jporter]

I have a mid 80s Lincoln Explorer finished in Ash I got from the original owner two years ago. He had used a oil finish for the wood and I'm almost out of what he had gave me. It was a white can with green weighting and two old guys in a boat on the front of the can. Anyone know what it's called? I'd switch to something ells but it's bin doing fine for 30 plus years I hate to switch.

 

[Jim Dodd]

Watco, makes a Teak oil, that I've used for years. They have changed the labeling on the can, It used to say" Marine", but it seems to hold up quite well. Watco recommends to wipe on, and let it set for awhile, wipe off, and reapply.
I saturate the heck out of it, and leave it to dry, maybe a week, or more. Come back and hit it again.
I have several in need of recoating. I'll lightly sand and throw another heavy coat on again.

If you can't locate the original stuff, and I'm betting you can't, as varnish formulas have changed because of EPA. . I'd go with Watco Teak.
Good luck !

Jim

 

[Philtrum]

Agreed - Watco is good stuff. When you get more than three coats on it develops a deep, protective finish. It is, after all, varnish.

 

[oldie moldy]

Well J, I'd suggest that what ever the other guy was using, Watco will do it too. I surely understand wanting to keep using the same stuff but I'll bet you the "magic" ingredient was that he used it frequently and often.

I've had many adventures out in my shop, looking at some glass jar of something, trying to remember just what the heck it was that I put in there. Anymore, I put a strip of masking tape on the lid and write what it is. There's a rule: The more certain you are that you'll remember, the more guaranteed that you'll forget.

Best Wishes, Rob

 

[ppine]

I am happy to hear so many people mention Watco. I have been using since the 1970s when I built sailboats for a living in Arlington, WA.

 

[latremorej]

Well J, I'd suggest that what ever the other guy was using, Watco will do it too. I surely understand wanting to keep using the same stuff but I'll bet you the "magic" ingredient was that he used it frequently and often.

I've had many adventures out in my shop, looking at some glass jar of something, trying to remember just what the heck it was that I put in there. Anymore, I put a strip of masking tape on the lid and write what it is. There's a rule: The more certain you are that you'll remember, the more guaranteed that you'll forget.

Best Wishes, Rob

That is surely the truth! I write it on tape too!

 

[latremorej]

And date it. Lol

 

[Jonas Sjöblom]

I just use raw oxidated linseed oil (boiled works too) And it works very well. I usually put one coat in spring and one in fall if needed.

 

[Robin]

I bought a neglected MR Explorer with dryed out wood gunnels and applied a few coats of Watco, like night and day, looks great and it was a pleasant experience bringing them back to life.


Jonas, Is your wood canvas canoe varnished inside?

I asked the canoe builder I know if he ever saw a wood canvas canoe that was completely oiled inside. He had, but they where always very old and the oil had collected alot of dirt.

 

[Canotrouge]

That is what I will use on the wood gunnels of my canoes from now on...Tru-Oil Gun stock finish from Birchwood Casey.

 

[Jonas Sjöblom]

No Title

Robin, I varnished all spruce parts (planking, ribs, seat and inner gunwales). I've just oiled the thwarts, decks and outer gunwales which are in ash. So far this seems like a very good combination.
But I do have a friend with a non-varnished canoe. It had been sitting unused last 50 years but was in quite good condition and after a change of some planking and gunwhales 2 years ago it's now in top condition. The oiled planking got very dark very fast. I thought she had put tar on them. But when I asked she said it's just linseed oil.