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Making a paddle

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Hi folks! So, I've determined that I don't have enough paddles. Also, I'm too cheap to buy one, so I figure I'll take a crack at making a couple. I'll model them off my current grey owl paddles and laminate some wood scraps together that I have and basically see what happens! A bit of trial and error for my first ones. Anyway, I have a couple questions that I could probably find the answer to if I searched online (but I thought this way would be more fun):

What material can I use for the 'wear strip' at the bottom of the blade?

So that's only one question. I'll hold my other question in reserve :)
 
I wonder what most people use for the glue up? Is there a consensus? Nobody use carpenter's glue?
 
I wonder what most people use for the glue up? Is there a consensus? Nobody use carpenter's glue?

I've used different things.. Right now, I use Titebond III.... But I really like using epoxy, long open time, easy to aligne the pieces.... But a pain for cleaning.

I've used regular Titebond II w/o any problems...

I really can't stand the Gorilla type glue, they are messy, and a pain to clean.
 
Ha ha, I love gorilla glue, it's just so easy. If I don't have it, I usually thicken some left over epoxy from boat building.
 
I've been using either Lee Valley Cabinet Maker's Adhesive 2002 GF, or West System 105-206+filler (silica, wood flour, cotton flox etc) for laminating. Sometimes I mix in a pinch of West 423 Graphite Powder to either adhesive to give me a nice black glue line-- I like to know where the joint is, because I measure off it throughout the whittling and sanding.

Epoxy cleanup is a challenge to be sure, especially around clamps. Sometimes I just leave it for a few hours to rubber-up, and then use a scraper or chisel to remove the rubbery blobs.

For cleanup of uncured wet epoxy I've been alternating between using acetone and white vinegar-- they both work about the same, and they both stink about the same. They're equally efficient for dissolving epoxy and transporting it through your skin, so wear gloves and an appropriate mask with a filter like a 3M 6001 Organic Vapour Cartridge.

I think I prefer the acetone overall, but white vinegar is a fraction of the price.
 
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Blackfly,
I use Titebond or Elmers for the Southern Yellow Pine shafts and Western Red Cedar blades.
For blade tips, I use canvas or paper based phenolic sheet, sometimes called Garolite XX. like this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#phenolic-sheets/=12k9yfe
Blades are wrapped in 4 oz cloth with epoxy resin, same as some of my strippers.
Most of my paddles are 48" shaft length and weigh 13 to 14 oz.
Some have been around for over 25 years and haven't suffered yet.
I've looked through my photos and couldn't find anything showing just the paddles, so I hope this photo below has enough detail: DSC_0002.JPG
 
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Thanks for the tips! I used epoxy to glue mine together. I'll provide a photographic update shortly, but it hasn't gone that well for my first paddle :)
I didn't get the book yet because I like to figure things out on my own so I just bought some lumber and went for it. So now it's probably got too much flex, and the shape is not quite perfect. But that's ok. It's been a fun project. I'll sand it up soon and post a few photos over the next week or two.
 
My first attempt at a paddle weighed about ten pounds and I burned it last Summer. I'm sticking to restoring canoes. Christy wanted to try a Sugar Island blade type paddle so I bought her one last week at Wilderness Supply.
 
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