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Gelcoat repair

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Red Lake, Ontario
10 years of heavy use and my Kevlar canoe is looking rather ragged, then this past weekend I went on a group trip down the Black River in MB with a guy from work. Their way of travelling is much different than mine. They brought heavy canoes packed with heavy gear and avoided taking them out of the water for any reason. Thought runnable rapids meant there was enough water to float the canoe down, but for them it meant run it hard till the canoe stops then drag it the rest of the way. :eek: Then end result was some new and very pronounced gel coat damage to the canoe. I can't avoid fixing it any longer.

So how do it do it?

I also am thinking of removing the aluminum gunnels and replacing them with wood. HAs anybody ever done this before? Do I just drill out the rivets and? replace with wood and stainless screws?
 
Clear or colored gel coat? How picky are you about having the repair blend in?

The easiest method is to fill gel coat chips/scratches with thickened epoxy. Sand well, mask off the area, fill with epoxy, remove tape, sand smooth, and apply finish (paint, varnish, etc..). You can be as meticulous as you'd like depending on what kind of aesthetic results you're willing to accept.

Replacing aluminum with wood should be as easy as you surmised but your plastic end caps likely won't fit on the wood so you'll probably want to make some sort of deck to cover the edge of the hull at the stems

Alan
 
I also am thinking of removing the aluminum gunnels and replacing them with wood. HAs anybody ever done this before? Do I just drill out the rivets and? replace with wood and stainless screws?

Having requnwaled a dozen or so canoes I’ll offer a few suggestions.

The rivets are almost certainly 3/16” diameter. I drill off the heads using a slightly smaller bit (11/64), keeping the drill centered and aligned with the pop rivet shank. The pop rivet head will spin off on the drill and you can pop out the remaining shank with a narrow punch (I use a blunted nail).

I pre-drill and pre-countersink the inwales (and last couple of feet on the outwales, where a drill won’t fit inside the stems). That part required some planning, measuring and marking. I don’t stand a snowball’s chance of hitting the old hull holes exactly, and if I tried and ended up 1/16” off I’d have a loose sloppy hole in the hull, so I space the new screw holes in the wood gunwales in between the old hull holes.

The planning part of that is tricky; I do not want to have a horizontal gunwale screw intersect too closely with the vertical hole for a thwart or seat drop, lest I weaken an area of the gunwale with too close spaced holes --|.

I also do not want to have 60 holes on each side of the hull, 30 new ones and 30 old ones. I sometimes epoxy a length of fiberglass tape along the inside of the hull at the sheerline for some added strength in that now Swiss cheese area.

The actual installation of the new gunwales requires a bunch of clamps. Or, even easier, a couple of clamps and a couple of shop helpers to physically hold the new inwale/outwale aligned together while I drill a pilot hole in the outwale (or last couple feet of inwale) and install the screws.

I think Charlie Wilson has a professional regunwaling protocol. Perhaps he will respond.
 
Sealing the wood gunnels is probably the most important thing ! Epoxy is my favorite, to make wood gunnels last.

Jim
 
I put all the screws in from the inside to the outside with exception of the stems where the drill won't fit. There are usually four screws there that go outside to in. It's kind of tedious drilling and countersinking all the holes. Get as many quick grip clamps as you can find. I clamp in the thwarts and scrap 1x1s to keep the shape as I go. Composite boats are pretty floppy without gunwales.

Important: Get a toilet wax ring and wax all the screws before they go in, so you don't split the gunwales. Set the clutch on the drill almost all the way down. When the clutch slips, back the screw out some and try again and again.
 
Yep. Definitely countersink as you drill. Use a good carbide bit too. I broke one of my carbide bits and switched to a cheapo on my first set of gunwales. It broke off on the second hole. Now my canoe has two broken off drill bits permanently embedded in the rail.

As far as knowing better, one of the trips I did this spring involved going under 20 barbed wire fences and running three 4 to 6 ft. waterfalls that I would never dream of running in my own nice boat, however we were all in old alumacrafts and plastic colemans and it was a blast. We may scoff at a heavy beater canoe, but if you never have to pull it out of the water it can make for a great trip, much better than portaging the most exciting parts of the river which can come few and far between.
 
Composite canoes are floppy without gunwales??? Really???
Not in my experience. All composites do not have the same lamination schedule. My WildFire from Colden is incredibly stiff and you may not have heard of Savage River. Very stiff and only have inwales on finished product
 
Yellowcanoe. You're right. I forget that when I'm putting in gunwales there are no cores or ribs installed yet. Still a good idea to put some spacers in because bending ash gunwales will certainly flex the canoe somewhat out of shape unless it is a perfect arc. Also, savage rivers are typically carbon race boats, not your typical tripping canoes, or a ten year old kevlar and glass boat. And at the price of some big box store 1x1s it seems like cheap insurance to me.

Edit: paddle you Colden without gunwales and tell me what you think. Gunwales add an incredible amount of stiffness.
 
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Red, you can buy colored gelcoat for the repairs. The color match might not be perfect. Check with Fiberglast. I've never patched gelcoat, but you'll probably have to spread it in the blemishes and then tape plastic over it to smooth it out. I imagine some sanding will be in order too. Any place that sells it should be able to give you good instructions on the repair.
 
I use Raka epoxy and have been happy with it. Don't know about it's availability in Canada or how expensive it is to ship. You'll also need something like cabosil or fine wood dust to thicken it with.

I got some of this stuff in a skin on frame canoe kit once and it's really handy:

http://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Superbo...id=1436410917&sr=8-1&keywords=superbond+epoxy

It's the perfect consistency right out of the jar for the type of repair you're looking at, uses an easy 1:1 mixing ratio (easy to do by eye), and it's clear as opposed to any other epoxy that's been thickened (cabosil will turn epoxy white and wood dust some shade of brown).

You can also get liquid pigment or powders that can color the epoxy. Not going to be an exact match for your color but maybe close enough. I know they're available from Raka, Express Composites, and US composites. Many others as well I'm sure.

Alan
 
If the gelcoat damage is not too extensive there are gelcoat repair kits available. This is one I have used with reasonably good results: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...FYsRHwodU8EFEw

You probably won't get an exact color match with the included red pigment but it will likely be as close as you would come by using tinted resin. When using the material in this kit you need to cover the gelcoat with waxed paper to exclude air while it cures.

Another strategy is to simply fill in the chips and scratches and cover any fabric that has been exposed from abrasion of the gelcoat, then paint the hull bottom. You can use epoxy for this purpose. You can also use auto body filler. Mark off a 3 or 4 inch waterline and paint. You can use spray paint, which is easiest to apply and reapply, or a marine polyurethane paint. Dave Curtis recently recommended to me Petit Easypoxy paint which contains silicone and is said to produce a gelcoat-like shine. Just be aware that if you use epoxy you will not then be able to apply a polyester gelcoat or resin over that area as it might not cure reliably. As for structural epoxy I have used West Systems, System 3, and MAS with good results but generally prefer West Systems, largely for their customer support.

As for rerailing, you have already gotten some very good advice. I will second a few recommendations and add one or two points.

Like Mike, I too am uncomfortable leaving a lot of extraneous holes up near the sheer line, especially the rather large holes that will be left from removal of the rivets holding the aluminum rails on. Applying a strip of fiberglass tape is certainly an option, but I usually just fill in the holes using epoxy thickened with colloidal silica gel. This is not hard to do if you can support the canoe on its side. Cover the holes on the outside of the hull with clear plastic tape and fill them in from the inside, one side at a time.

Measure your beam carefully before you remove the aluminum gunwales. I have found that composite boats often collapse inward to some extent when the rails are removed. Sometimes this is just a little but sometimes several inches. I agree with Muskrat that as you drill the pilot holes in the outwales and put in the screws, it is best to have a temporary thwart amidships to space the hull out to the design beam. Sure you can put the rails on and then jack the hull back out, but if the hull has collapsed inward much you will be applying stress on the wood through the gunwale screws as the shape changes and this could promote early splitting of the wood.

Like Jim, I now use epoxy to seal the wood and I like System 3 Clear Coat for this purpose as it is very low viscosity and cures quite clear. In fact, I seal the inner faces of the outwales and outer faces of the inwales with epoxy even if I plan to oil the rails. If I plan to bright finish the rails with marine varnish or polyurethane, I will apply several coats of epoxy to all faces of the rails then several coats of varnish.

Definitely drill holes and countersink them for the inwales before you start to mount them. Ideally, the holes in the inwales (the first piece of wood the screw encounters) and the holes in the hull should be large enough for the screw to go through without biting. This allows the inwale and outwale to come together as tightly as possible. Drilling only small pilot holes in the hull will sometimes result in a burr of hull material being raised that prevents the inwale from coming in tightly against the hull. What I will usually do is trial fit my inwales after trimming them to length and drilling and countersinking the screw holes. After drilling pilot holes and screwing the inwales to the hull, I remove them and enlarge the hull holes. Pilot holes for the outwales are drilled as the rails are applied.

No one mentioned rabbeting the rails. Most composite boats with two piece rails have either the outwales or the inwales rabbeted so that a thin kerf or lip of wood covers over the top of the hull and hides it. This requires rabbeting one of each rail pair before mounting. It is generally best to rabbet the outwales so as to preserve the full thickness of the inwale inside the hull. This is because the holes that will have to be drilled for your seat hangers (if any) and thwarts will inevitably weaken the inwales somewhat, and the thinner the inwales are the weaker they will be. Rabbeting is much more easily done if you have access to a table saw or shaper or know a friend who does. You don't have to rabbet the rails but if you don't the hull will be visible between the inwale and outwale. You might find after removal of your aluminum rails that the top of the hull along the sheerline is quite irregular and you may need to smooth it off before you install your new rails, if you opt to "sandwich" your new rails.

Consider what you are going to do about deck plates or end caps. You might possibly be able to reuse your existing ones but you might need to taper or trim the outwale ends to do so. If you are going to make new deck plates, consider whether you are going to have on-laid or inset plates. Inset deck plates look nice but require considerably more attention then on-laid plates. On-laid plates, unless transparent, hide the ends of the inwales so that they do not need to meet precisely in the stems of the boat. With inset plates you must precisely shape the inwale ends so that they not only match the hull contour, but also meet each other neatly along the center line of the boat. Then the deck plate must be cut and shaped to precisely fit inside the inwales. An on-laid plate or deck cap that simply screws onto the ends of the outwales and covers over the ends of the inwales is much less work.
 
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Like Mike, I too am uncomfortable leaving a lot of extraneous holes up near the sheer line, especially the rather large holes that will be left from removal of the rivets holding the aluminum rails on. Applying a strip of fiberglass tape is certainly an option, but I usually just fill in the holes using epoxy thickened with colloidal silica gel. This is not hard to do if you can support the canoe on its side. Cover the holes on the outside of the hull with clear plastic tape and fill them in from the inside, one side at a time.

I use a quick and sleezy way to lay glass tape and epoxy along the sheerline. I clean the inwale hull edge, sand it lightly and alcohol wipe it. Run a piece of painters tape or masking tape on the outwale hull edge across the old holes so the epoxy doesn’t drip through. Run a piece of tape along the inside of the hull for a nice clean tape & epoxy line and set the canoe on edge.

I just measure and cut the length of tape needed, less a few inches for stretchage, mix a small batch of epoxy and grab a shallow rectangular Tupperware type container. Pour a little epoxy in the container, lay in a couple of folds of fiberglass tape, pour in a little more epoxy, few more folds of tape and repeat.

Once I have a lasagna of tape in the container I squish it around until fully saturated, pick up the loose top end of the tape and walk alongside the hull laying the tape allowing it to pull out of the plasticware. As the fiberglass tape slides over the flat edge of the container it sort of squeegees off much of the excess resin.

There is always extra resin in the tape pot to fill any thin areas and I run a foam roller over it to remove any bubbles and even out the epoxy. The extra extra resin goes on some other project already prepped and waiting. More dang prep work.

Depending on the size of the tape and inwale you have a rough selvage edge to sand down, but that’s quicker and easier than the prep work that went before.



On-laid plates, unless transparent, hide the ends of the inwales so that they do not need to meet precisely in the stems of the boat. With inset plates you must precisely shape the inwale ends so that they not only match the hull contour, but also meet each other neatly along the center line of the boat. Then the deck plate must be cut and shaped to precisely fit inside the inwales. An on-laid plate or deck cap the simply screws onto the ends of the outwales and covers over the ends of the inwales is much less work.

What Pete said. I’ll never try to install in-laid deck plates again. I lack the woodworking skills to shape a perfectly fitted inset plate. heck, I lack the skills to get the ends of the inwale and outwale pieces to fit perfectly. A slightly oversized top mounted deck plate is wayyyyy easier to make and install (and remove, if ever needed).

I use brass screws and finishing washers, just ‘cause they look nice, especially when they get a little patina.


Don’t overlook some kind of drain hole(s). The tips of the stems are the likeliest place to collect debris and hold water, which is death to wood. I like the biggest drain hole I can manage, so it isn’t blocked by a twig or dead bug.
 
Colden have infused gunwales available. Yes you can paddle one without gunwales. I have the builder here if anyone would like to continue the discussion.

Stiffest boats I have ever paddled. I do have wooden gunwales which tends to reduce rocker. Wood wants to align with its grain. Infused gunwales allow the naked hull shape to retain shape while affording abrasio! resistance

In any case a boat that depends on gunwales for strength has sacrificed something for light weight in many cases.
Because they truly are floppy without gunwales I detest Big Wenonahs
 
TechSheet 52 GEL COAT REPAIR

Gel‑coat is a glossy abrasion resistant finish protecting the paddlecraft's structure by absorbing shock and scratches. It should be cleaned regularly to maintain appearance and prolong useful life. Frequent 303 treatments keep your boat bright and slippery.

Scratches and repairs in gel-Coat may be wet sanded out - starting with 120 grit dry paper and progressing through 320, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 wet paper before finishing with rubbing compound, and hand glaze or polish. Use a foam sanding block and lots of water, changing water with each grit, being careful not to sand through the gel coat. After polishing, treat the area with 303.

Clean the area of damaged gel with acetone, then dry. Pick out cracked gel, removing all fragments. If fabric is exposed, break the surface with coarse sandpaper. New gel bonds better to sharp edges; coarse sand only if needed. Then wash with acetone and let dry again.

Gel‑Coat, clear or pigmented, is a polyester resin and must be catalyzed to harden. For a complete cure the canoe must be kept above 70 degrees F and 50-60% humidity for 8 hours. To repair Gel-Coat, wear a plastic apron and rubber gloves in a well ventilated work area. Use a discardable container and measure and mix MEK catalyst as in the chart. Improper catalyst mixtures will not cure, so measure carefully and stir thoroughly! Average working time with this mixture is 15 minutes @72dgF.

GEL COAT VOLUME 1/2 Pt / 1/4 Pt / 2 Oz / 1 Oz / 1/2 Oz / 1 TBS / 1 tsp.
MEKP 9 VOLUME 5.cc / 2.5cc / 1.2cc / .6cc / .3cc / 2 drops / 1 drop

The gel‑coat/catalyst mixture will not change in appearance or viscosity for nearly 10 minutes, but hardens in 20. Spread the mixture over the damaged area with a flat stick, making sure the gel is “proud” to eliminate the need to recoat. A drafting tape dam can keep it from spreading.

After the gel hardens, evaluate whether another application is needed. If not, wipe with acetone a few times to remove residual styrene and sand the area to original shape and gloss as described in the second paragraph above. Finish by applying 303, which resists UV degradation, protects from scratches, and eases scum and road oil removal. Paste waxes are less helpful, protecting the hull from scratches, but attracting road oil and slowing the hull on water.

NOTE: Gel-coat shelf life is 30‑45 days! Use immediately! If your gel coat is too thick, thin w/ MEK, a high-end paint thinner. Thinning with acetone changes gel times.

WARNING: The manufacturers of these materials advise they should be used only under the following conditions: Use adequate ventilation and keep away from open flame. Protect yourself from prolonged breathing of vapors and contact with skin; keep away from children. If any material contacts your skin or eyes, wash immediately with water and call a physician.
 
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TechSheet 53 LAMINATE REPAIR

Construction and repair techniques of fiberglass, Kevlar and carbon canoe hulls are similar. These suggestions cover damage where the laminate is stressed or broken.

FRACTURES If the hull has been severely deflected the inter-laminar bonds may be broken. This shows as a white line or fracture, and the damaged area will be more flexible than the surrounding hull. Repairs should be made to the hulls inside. Sand the interior of the hull around the fractured area with 80 grit sandpaper to roughen the surface. Clean with acetone and a clean rag

Two overlapping patches will be needed. For simple fractures fiberglass patches cut easily, wet out well and sand out easily. Carbon cuts and sands as well but one cannot see voids under it. Kevlar must be cut on a board with a razor knife and the edges must be peel plied as they will fuzz if sanded. Cut the first patch to extend 1” from the fracture, the second to extend 2” from the break. Feather the edges of each patch by removing 1‑2 strands of yarn. Set patches aside in order. Covering the second patch with peel ply eliminates the need to sand.

RESINS Pb Hulls are constructed with Epoxy Vinyl ester resins and cannot be repaired with iso-polyester or normal vinyl ester resins. Vinyl Ester Resins are harsh chemical compounds. Always use a respirator with activated carbon chemical cartridges for chemical vapors as resin vapors can cause respiratory tract and eye irritation. Contact with skin can cause dermatitis and burns; always wear rubber gloves and an impervious apron. Always use safety glasses. Be careful, these chemicals are dangerous.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide, MEKP, the catalyst used to activate resins, is a strong irritant. It is corrosive to eyes and may cause blindness. It is harmful or fatal if swallowed. BE CAREFUL.
If eye contact occurs with resin or MEKP, flush with water or eyewash for fifteen minutes and call a physician. Skin contact should be washed off with soap and water. Clothing, brushes and other items may be cleaned with SuperFlush or Acetone. Be Careful with these cleaners.

Epoxy Vinyl Ester resin catalyzes with 2% MEKP; 16cc MEKP per quart of resin, 8cc per pint, 4cc per cup. Most ISO Polyester Resin catalyses near 1% MEKP, 8cc per quart, 2cc per cup. Measure MEKP carefully: too little or too much catalyst will cause incomplete cure. Mix the resin and hardener completely in a throw‑away paper cup or container with a clean stir stick.

Using a throw‑away brush, apply resin to the sanded area. Place the smaller patch in place and saturate it with resin using a dabbing motion. The fabric will take a minute or two to become saturated with resin; fiberglas will become translucent. Continue dabbing with the brush to smooth the cloth and work out air bubbles which appear as white spots. Work the patch until no air bubbles remain. Wet out the second patch in the same manner.

Peel ply is required with Kevlar patches and eliminates the need to sand fiberglas and carbon ones. Cut the peel ply larger than the second patch, apply, then wet out and smooth out air with the resin brush. After cure, remove the peel ply, leaving a mat finish and smooth patch edges.
When finished with resin, place the cup away from flammable objects to exotherm. Considerable heat will be generated, and the resin should be allowed to cool before discarding in a trash receptacle. Similarly, discard gloves, brushes and other contaminated items, or clean with the cleaners listed above, wearing the second pair of rubber gloves and an apron.

HULL TEARS The objective is to rebuild the original structure of the canoe. Butt the torn edges together, using an outer compress to restore hull shape. Ducting tape often suffices, but a cardboard sheet may be required. Place plastic-wrap between the hull and cardboard compress to keep it from bonding to the hull. Clean and debreed the broken interior of the hull with 100 grit sandpaper, removing surface dirt, interior paint, shattered resin and broken laminae. Sand out into solid laminate, forming a dished area, and then roughen the surface of solid hull for 3" around the dish. Brush debris away and clean with acetone. While carbon and fiberglass sand into a shallow dish nicely, Kevlar will not. Remove as much broken Kevlar fabric as possible, using sharp cutters. To remove Kevlar fuzz, wet the edge with water and shave with a double edged razor. Dry thoroughly before continuing the repair.

Cut four patches of successively increasing size to fill the sanded area, with a large, final patch to bridge the break and cover the roughened area around it. Set the patches aside in order, smallest first up. After donning plastic apron, respirator and rubber gloves, mix the resin as described. Using a brush, wet the sanded area, and successively apply, wet out, and work the air bubbles out of each patch.

If Kevlar patches are used, apply a fiberglass overpatch that can be sanded smooth or peel ply. Then clean your equipment and any spills inside the hull with acetone. After the patch cures for a minimum of 8 hours it may be edge sanded. Use porch enamel to match colored interiors.

OUTER REPAIR Fractured or worn areas distorting the canoe's exterior require fiberglass or carbon patches so that they may be sanded to facilitate surface or gel‑coat repair. Minor outer problems may be filled with fiberglass strands, cut about 1/4" long with shears, and resin. Serious damage calls for sanding a dished area in the gel coat to expose sound outer laminae. Sand carefully! Many Kevlar canoes have a thin outer glass layer to facilitate repair.

After cutting glass strands and patches as above, don protective gear and mix resin as above. For repairs on worn through stems, bias cut patched wrap around the shape better than patches cut along the weave lines of the fabric. Fill gaps with a strand/resin mixture, and successively wet out and smooth out the patches, working out all air bubbles. Clean up with acetone, and let the patch cure for 8 hours before sanding and starting Gel-Coat repair.

WARNING ONLY use these materials in areas with adequate ventilation, and keep away from open flame. Protect yourself from breathing vapors and skin contact by using a respirator, plastic apron and rubber gloves. Keep out of reach of children. If you get these materials on your skin or in your eyes, flush immediately with water and call a physician. Acetone cleans tools, but will not remove cured resin from clothing.

[518] 523.9696 charliewilson77@Gmail.com
 
TS 58 WOOD TRIM REPLACEMENT

A. Acquire or manufacture Inwales and Outwales of adequate length, rabbet
preferred on Inwale. Discard wood with large knots or excessive crossgrain.

B. Swing an arc from bow or stern to each seat and thwart bolt hole. Make a
sketch noting the arc distances

C. Note the hull’s center width, cutting a matching spreader bar if solo, retain
carry thwart if tandem.

1. Measure Rail length along shear line, Inwales usually shorter than outwales .

2. Lay rail sections on bench; cut to length, with ends cut 45dg
  1. Mark Rail centers; these are different marks as Outwale, Inwale lengths vary
  1. Mark inwale 6”/ other screw spacings:
  1. Drill, countersink, marked, 6” inwale screw placements on drill press w/ flathead #8 countersink.
  1. Relieve inwale rabbet ~4” each end w/ grinder
7. Sand outwale ends, sand all surfaces. Preserving center marks

8. Sand and Seal all 6 surfaces of each rail, apply first coat of Epiphanes.
  1. Measure, mark, hull center both sides
  1. Center and double clamp inwale and outwale on hull center mark,
  1. Bore through laminate & into outwale w/ blind, collared #8 countersink;
careful not to over-drill. Set first screw.
  1. Install spreader bar, countersink and set successive screws, clamping progressively during progress towards each hull quarter.
13. repeat on second inwale/outwale.

14. Use flex shaft or 90 degree drill for final inside screws near stem

15. Mark two outer screws 1 ¼, 2 ¼” spacing on outwale; longer screws attach
decks.

16. Install thwarts, grab bars; mark, drill, countersink location arcs as specified;
mounting w/ flathead 10-24 Machine screw

17. sand rabbet flush, refinish with two coats Epiphanes.

cew Sept 09
 
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