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Duluth Pack Repair

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D5975F89-1AB7-4553-B265-78F034D234D0.jpegI picked up an older #3 online in pretty good shape other than some of the leather. Has anyone found a good source for similar to original rivets? I realize I can send this to Duluth for repair, but I’ve seen on other forums where this can cost a fair amount.

Bob
 
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I think I might have some rivets that will work. Tomorrow I’ll take a look at my Duluth pack and check my rivet supply.
Jim
 
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Chicago screws would work, I quit using the for anything but things I want to take apart. I have had the little screw work loose on some things. So if you go that route check the tightness periodically prior to using the pack.
I would take the a few piece’s of the pack with the two types of rivets on them to a local hardware store or a big box craft store. The leather looks dryer than a popcorn fart. So you should get some leather oil. Might have to get some new leather straps. I just bought some belt leather in two different width’s from
Montanaleather.com
Price was good, so was the product and shipping, got to Alaska in about four days which is really good.
While trying to remember what the leather place in Montana was called Jim (Boatman53) beat me to your problem. He will probably fix you up, he’s a good man.
 
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Thank you- Much appreciated. I think the thicker straps can be saved with oil, but the rest are toast. It’s a good time of year for projects like this and I can’t complain only paying $30.

Bob
 
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I wish I could have offered some ideas but came up empty. I have an old #3 with some failing straps so I’m looking forward to what you come up with.
 
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I was able to pick up a pack of copper rivets at the local hardware store. It was a variety pack with three different sizes, one being identical to the ones used by Duluth Pack. The repair worked well with a ball peen hammer and looked "professional".
 
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Tandy Leather is always good for this kind of thing. You can buy online from them but if you can get to a store they often have good deals. As well as copper rivets and a rivet setter you can buy heavy leather strips intended for belts that make good pack straps.
 
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My pack has two kinds of rivets, the peened and the clenched.
I have plenty of the peened kind if you want. I’ll send what you need. No clenched rivets however.
Jim
 

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Thanks Jim- I really appreciate it. I am going to see what I can find local to save you the trouble. I don’t have much experience with this kind of thing so this has been helpful to see what I need.

Bob
 
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No worries Bob. See what you can find and keep us posted. On these kind of rivets you set the rove (washer) and then nip the shank down to about 1/8” and hit it with light blows from the hammer. The idea is to upset the metal at the end not bend everything.
Jim
 
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The rivet setter has a hole for setting the washer and then, after you have cut the end down, a dimple for forming a tidy mushroom head on the end of the rivet.
 
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D7CA197A-85D2-40A3-B4E1-E92E09436A8E.jpegI was able to source most of the materials local. Thanks all for the suggestions and Jim for offering to send rivets. Boreal Birch was correct-all the leather other than the buckles was dry as dirt. I had to order the wider shoulder strap material, but I was able finish the front. The trickiest part was drilling out the old rivets. I am used to hollow head sheet metal rivets, but these are solid and took a bit more persuasion. I found a hand drill worked best as I was able to move it around and use lighter pressure than my drill press. I was able to easily peen over the new copper rivets on a sledge. I have been wanting an anvil for a while but I got the usual blank stare from the wife when I suggested this would justify the investment in our future…(she knows what they cost).

Bob
FBA92323-986E-41EC-8304-324D1216EDE8.jpegB115D140-4768-4094-9D7C-C34A06D11FE5.jpeg
 
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I have used a lot of different hardware in the repair of horse tack. Chicago screws are good if you want to be able take a bridle apart for instance and change bits, but they can come apart at very awkward times.

I really like copper rivets with copper washers hammered in place with a ball peen hammer. They do not fail.
 
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Wonderful job, lots of satisfaction in doing a bit of craftsmanship on such a personal project as a pack. It will serve you well in the next fifty some odd years. Then your heirs will get a lot of use out of it too.
Load a 40-50 lb. bag of dog food into that pack, then adjust the tump & pack straps, so that when you lean forward, into the tump it takes the weight off the shoulders. Walk around with just the tump to train your neck muscles, when one bag of dog food is no longer enough, add another. Don’t try to do the training period on a canoe trip. You might do this in the neighborhood after dark, so the folks don’t think you’re goofy. When I was young and tougher than I am now, I used to portage a 17 foot aluminum canoes and a full Duluth Pack on mile long portages in the Boundary Waters & Quetico Park without a needing a rest. My tripping companion would portage the other heavier Duluth Pack, axe in one hand & cook kit in the other. Paddles and fishing rods were stowed and secured in the canoe. We could travel a long way in short order.
While in college I lived five blocks from Lake Bemidji, I would portage to the lake a couple nights a week, spring and fall quarters, for a paddle in the dark, just to keep in canoeing shape. On Friday nights same thing only would just keep paddling to go up or down the Mississippi River for the weekend.
One summer I had a good paying summer job, I bought a light weight Grumman canoe, l could not believe how much difference 15 pounds made in portage ease.
 
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