New member, have built before. I found this site, read basically all build posts.
Did anyone finally build a stripper from it and I missed the build log?
Did anyone finally build a stripper from it and I missed the build log?
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Happy Birthday, Lucille Ball (1911-1989) 📽️📺🌟
Divinycell build
- Thread starter Fourbtgait
- Start date
Found it. No ending though.
Foam stripper build.
This canoe will be a 23’ family touring C4. Foam is Divinicel 1/2”. Strips were cut with a table saw with a foam cutting blade. Some were cut at 2” and some at 1”. All strips were cut at 90 degrees. Foam was secured to the forms by a 23’guage finish nail. Cedar strips were tacked upto hold...
www.canoetripping.net
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Yes, I remember now reading that one. But as you say, no ending.
I remember the ideas of how to lay/support the strips was being discussed.
I remember the ideas of how to lay/support the strips was being discussed.
I just repaired a carbon copied Sawyer 17’9” Cruiser
We had done a lousy job laminating the inside, including a barely stuck bottom layer of 1/8” H80. That hull was all polyester resin, I don’t recommend it.
I think I salvaged the build using a bunch of 3/8” H80 that I bought for next to nothing.
Around the dinner table, we have the plan perfected.
1 layer of carbon over the plug, 2 layers 6 oz E glass over that keeping the stems open. All epoxy resin.
Flip the hull, close the stems then add H80 to the football and maybe some ribs. That foam MUST be vacuumed in place. Finish the inside with another layer of carbon.
Unless we have or make a female mold, I can’t see any way to support the foam and still have an accurate shape.
1/8” H80 with single layers of 6 oz E glass is more than adequate strength for all but the most abused hulls.
I’ll start a new thread detailing the carbon copy build, subsequent lamination failure and desperate salvage attempt shortly (spoiler alert: I think I saved it)
If I had unlimited resources, I’d build some way to heat form full sheets of 1/8” H80 over a plug, but sadly my pockets are not that deep.
We had done a lousy job laminating the inside, including a barely stuck bottom layer of 1/8” H80. That hull was all polyester resin, I don’t recommend it.
I think I salvaged the build using a bunch of 3/8” H80 that I bought for next to nothing.
Around the dinner table, we have the plan perfected.
1 layer of carbon over the plug, 2 layers 6 oz E glass over that keeping the stems open. All epoxy resin.
Flip the hull, close the stems then add H80 to the football and maybe some ribs. That foam MUST be vacuumed in place. Finish the inside with another layer of carbon.
Unless we have or make a female mold, I can’t see any way to support the foam and still have an accurate shape.
1/8” H80 with single layers of 6 oz E glass is more than adequate strength for all but the most abused hulls.
I’ll start a new thread detailing the carbon copy build, subsequent lamination failure and desperate salvage attempt shortly (spoiler alert: I think I saved it)
If I had unlimited resources, I’d build some way to heat form full sheets of 1/8” H80 over a plug, but sadly my pockets are not that deep.
I was waiting for your reply @stripperguy
You had talked before of a female mold. Like you say, probably need vacuum to pull fabric close.
I had wondered instead of horizontal like a stripper, go gunnel to gunnel over a male mold. To hold bottom ends in place, cut it longer, tack it to a board, cut later. You mentioned before of what bends without heat, so i thought might work easier.
You had talked before of a female mold. Like you say, probably need vacuum to pull fabric close.
I had wondered instead of horizontal like a stripper, go gunnel to gunnel over a male mold. To hold bottom ends in place, cut it longer, tack it to a board, cut later. You mentioned before of what bends without heat, so i thought might work easier.
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