Carbon/Kevlar build

[Alan Gage]

This was plain old Rustoleum from the hardware store. Time will tell how it works out in real life but the price was right. Less than $50 for enough paint to do the inside and outside of two hulls.

Rustoleum offered a small selection of custom colors. This is Spruce Green, which I thought was fitting.

Alan

 

[dogbrain]

Alan, I'm thinking I'll paint the outside of my next build too. Did you tint the epoxy and then paint the boat on one of your previous builds? What paint did you use there?

 

[Muskrat]

I painted my oar blades with oil based rustoleum. I think I mentioned it somewhere else on the forum, but it took quite a while to fully cure. I used the oars a week after painting them and they chipped very easily. I can't give you a good date on how long it took since I don't use them much. Three weeks was still slightly soft, but after 2 months ish the paint was much more resilient.

 

[Alan Gage]

Alan, I'm thinking I'll paint the outside of my next build too. Did you tint the epoxy and then paint the boat on one of your previous builds? What paint did you use there?

On that one the tinted epoxy was the only source of color except for the float tanks which were an outdoor water based paint from the hardware store tinted to match.

Three weeks was still slightly soft, but after 2 months ish the paint was much more resilient.

I don't think I have quite the patience to wait two months but I'm sure it will be at least 2-3 weeks until it sees the water. I'm not expecting it to stand up to a lot of abuse. Mostly just looking for something cheap, easy, decent looking, and good UV protection.

Alan

 

[dougd]

Alan, I used the same paint on my Courier rebuild. I did two coats in Hunter Green and I really liked how it turned out. Now I run this boat on my rocky NE rivers so this year I'll need to do a touch up but it's been about 3-4 years since I painted it. I know one friend who paid top dollar for paint, automotive, and it turned out to scratch off easily and he told me not to go that route. I have thought about the Interlux but at the price I'll keep with the local hardware paint.

 

[Alan Gage]

Just waiting on seats now:

20170313_010 by Alan, on Flickr

20170313_011 by Alan, on Flickr

Alan

 

[memaquay]

Wow, that looks great! In regards to the paint, I have used it on my last few builds (fire engine red). It's great on the outside, goes on really nice and doesn't come off easily. On the inside, I haven't had as much success, it wears off around my feet quite quickly, and for a while, whatever shoes I'm wearing have red highlights.

I'm hopefully getting some cedar this week to start the square stern with. If I have any luck, I might make a departure and build the boat you designed for me this summer. I've never built one in the summer, but figure with full days to work on it, I might be able to keep up to your speed.

 

[Iskweo]

Holy cow Alan, thats a lot of boat. Way bigger compared to the one next to it

 

[Odyssey]

You're building a full on tandem right? That's a lotta boat Alan, and I like it.

Picturing memequay with red tripping shoes. Ruby red? There's no place like home.

 

[Alan Gage]

Holy cow Alan, thats a lot of boat. Way bigger compared to the one next to it

That's mostly wide angle lens trickery. This canoe is a 16.5'x35" tandem and the one next to it is a 16'x32" solo.

Alan

 

[Alan Gage]

I'm calling this canoe done. Just waiting on the weather now so that I can try it out.

I'll try and remember to bring the scale home from work tomorrow to see how the weight came out.

20170321_001 by Alan, on Flickr

Alan

 

[latremorej]

Nice Alan! Are you going to tie the painters to the grab thwart or drill holes?

 

[Jim Dodd]

I'm thinking one of those Lepricons from Emmetsburg, snuck into your shop and painted those canoes !
The green looks good.!

Jim

 

[latremorej]

I'm thinking one of those Lepricons from Emmetsburg, snuck into your shop and painted those canoes !
The green looks good.!

Jim

Nope, not bright enough!

 

[Alan Gage]

Are you going to tie the painters to the grab thwart or drill holes?

I'll just attach them to the grab handles. If the canoe ever gets any serious use I'll probably drill a couple holes.

Alan

 

[Alan Gage]

Got this out on the water a couple evenings ago when we had a break in the rainy and windy weather. I paddled it solo kneeling on front of the rear thwart so hard to get a feel for how it will perform with two people but no complaints so far from either me or Sadie.

20170328_003 by Alan, on Flickr

20170328_001 by Alan, on Flickr

Alan

 

[Alan Gage]

Finally had a chance to get this boat on the water with another person rather than solo. It handled well but unfortunately the bottom oil cans quite a bit if you bounce a bit or hit waves. With a load of gear it might not be a problem but empty I think it is.

Adding more layers of cloth would be heavy, a hassle, and expensive and I don't know how many more layers I'd need. I think the root of the problem is the relatively flat bottom and no core material to build hull thickness. The hull already has 9 layers of cloth below the water line (from inside out: kev, glass, kev, carb, kev, kev, carb, carb, glass). Wedging something under the carry yoke might be enough to stiffen it up but for a more permanent fix I'm leaning towards fitting wood ribs in the center section of the hull. It will be a someday project.

Alan

 

[stripperguy]

Alan,
Too bad about the oil canning....
Have you considered some glass over foam ribs? Or a full glass over foam bottom stiffener?
As you probably know, the single most effective change you can make is to increase your hull thickness, all other parameters have an effect, but not as much as the thickness.

 

[Alan Gage]

Alan,
Too bad about the oil canning....
Have you considered some glass over foam ribs? Or a full glass over foam bottom stiffener?
As you probably know, the single most effective change you can make is to increase your hull thickness, all other parameters have an effect, but not as much as the thickness.

Foam ribs are a possibility but I'm attempting to build the world's heaviest carbon/kevlar canoe and that would hurt my chances. Too much sanding (heavily textured and painted bottom) would probably be involved for me to consider a full foam bottom.

I'll keep mulling it over in my head and eventually decide what to do. It's not really a priority. The canoe was mostly built as an experiment to get ready for my composite Bloodvein build so it's not a big priority at this point. If it works out well wedging something under the carry yoke might be a semi- permanent solution.

Alan

 

[Guest]

If it works out well wedging something under the carry yoke might be a semi- permanent solution.

That is the solution some outfitters use on canoes prone to oil canning, often just a rectangle of minicel wedged/glued into place.

Out of curiosity what is the measurement between the bottom of the yoke or thwart and the bottom of the canoe?

Inexpensive minicel Yoga blocks are 9x6x3.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Yoga-Direct-Blue-Foam-Yoga-Block/17377544?variantFieldId=actual_color

(Willie found them in a less fugly color, green or gray IIRC)