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A Stripper and a Composite Copy

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Jim - really nice work (as usual). In terms of the composite copy, how much tumblehome is there in your hull? Is there a level of tumblehome that is just too much to make this workable when it comes to separating the copy from the cedar strip canoe?

I have a stripper hull hanging from my garage ceiling now that is waiting for gunnels and other final fittings when/if the weather warms up around here. It’s an Ashe’s solo trip that has a 30 inch waterline, growing to 33 inches at the max tumblehome point, and narrows down to 29 inches across the gunnels.

Do you (or others here who have done this) think this much tumblehome would give me a lot of grief in trying to get a composite copy off, assuming I leave both ends open as you are doing? Your project has got me seriously thinking about trying this before I finish things up on the stripper, but I have absolutely no experience here.

Thanks
Tony
Hi Tony !

The amount of tumblehome would not be a problem.

I'd go for it !

My advise at this point, is to be sure you varnish your hull first, and use Partal for a release !

I did this on a Royalex White Water hull, using Partal. The 6 oz Kevlar cloth, held tight to the hull.

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Finished.




Jim
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Thanks Jim. I am going to scout out the Kevlar and glass cloth I would need (seems more difficult now to just find the material here in Canada, let alone at the basement price you scored).

Feel free to go into excruciating detail when you post on the composite copy part of your build🙂.
 
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Thanks Jim. I am going to scout out the Kevlar and glass cloth I would need (seems more difficult now to just find the material here in Canada, let alone at the basement price you scored).

Feel free to go into excruciating detail when you post on the composite copy part of your build🙂.

You could always look at drop shipping harder to get items ... then just scoot across the border and pick them up. I used to have a drop ship place in Buffalo, now I ship to a friend there and they bring them back when they come up on a camping trip.

The border doesn't need to be much of a barrier IMO.

Brian
 
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OK . At this point the Kevlar copy is off the stripper mold.

Next up is to sand the glassed stripper, before removing from the forms.

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I love how easy it is to sand, the Tumblehomed area when I tilt the strongback !
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Fresh off the forms. Take note how little glue I have to deal with ! One of the big benefits of Bead and Cove. Being minmal with the strip glue is also a big benefit ! I spent very little time scraping, and sanding.

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I will set the stem forms, with the adjacent form still attached, into the Kevlar hull. This will insure the stems on the Kevlar, get glued perfectly vertical.

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Next I set the forms back up on the strongback, minus the stem forms.
Instead of foam, like a lot of other composites, I'll make a 1/8" thick WRC insert.
This adds plenty of stiffness, and I like the look a lot better. It also costs a lot less than Structural foam.
I just edge the 1/8" thick strips. No need to spent time fitting such thin strips.
I staple the strips to the forms. Two reasons. It's quick, and when I install, epoxy will seep through, telling me I have a tight fit between the insert, and Kevlar hull.

Those "Jimmy clamps " are so quick and handy !
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After I'm done stripping up the insert, I clamp on a Batten, so I can mark where to trim the insert.

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The Jap saw is a great tool. It works perfectly, for trimming. A simple plane makes quick work o fairing the edge.

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Here the insert is cut, and sanded, waiting to be Mated with the Kevlar hull. Just a note, the middle strips are Aspen. Aspen will stay white, long after the light Cedar turns redish.

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Next I address, the wrinkles left by the plastic film. Again ! Partal would have made this step a lot easier !

I have the stems glued true at this point. Beings I built the insert on the forms, it has the curves and shape of the Kevlar interior. This aids in fitting everything together. I place Blue tape spots to show me where the insert needs to be !

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With the interior of the Kevlar, sanded, and marked for the inserts. It's time lay out plastic that will go on top of the insert, while gluing it in.
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Here I have things lined up. With the insert, and the interior of the Kevlar sanded. the plastic sheeting and straps are in place.

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Next comes the Epoxy. I'm sorry, I don't have photos, of the application, but when I'm working alone ? My glues are full of epoxy.

Next, I mixed two 12 oz batches of resin, with Cabosil added to thicken the epoxy. The mix was way thinner than Peanut butter.
I spread it with a toothed plastic troll, in the Kevlar hull, up to the blue tape marks.
The insert is added. Making sure it is centered. The plastic is placed over the insert, and the forms are strapped in place. Lastly about 150# of sand is added to insure the insert is pressed tight to the Kevlar.

A Very important Note ! Don't forget to place some bracing between the hull and saddles, to support the hull ! I made that mistake only once !

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Forms and sand.
The sand is my version of a " Poor Boy Vacuum bagging system."
A vacuum bag would be far better !

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The plastic worked great ! After a couple of days, no hurry at this point, I unstrapped the forms, and scooped out the sand.

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Next it was time to sand the insert, and feather the edges, so I could cover, with a cloth layer. I think I used 6 oz E-glass for this, because It was handy.

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The insert was glassed, about 4" up the side of the hull, on each side. At this point, I will turn my attention back to the stripper. Flotation chambers, will be the next order for the Kevlar, and an additional layer up the side in the area of where the seat will be placed.

IMG_4043.JPG


Next episode will be finishing the interior of the stripper.
Thanks !

Jim
 
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