two cans of vinyl bond, and a BMO hat.....
I do like my BMO hat, especially the dark bill for glare reduction.
I gotta ask about the “vinyl bond”.
My memory is that that
Vynabond is no longer available. I do enough outfitting that I preferred the larger can size of VynaBond and when the availability became limited bought what I thought was one of the last 1oz “toothpaste” tubes of Harmony stuff.
My understanding was that Vynabond actually formed a chemical bond with the vinyl surfaces; essentially that the solvents in Vynabond, which could eat through an RX hull if applied too wet and thickly, reacted when applied between two vinyl surfaces. I have to wonder if those user misapplications is why Vynabond disappeared?
I’m curious about the results folks have had using the generic (or other) Vinyl adhesive for adhering D-ring vinyl pads to Royalex canoes.
I have begun using G/flex for vinyl pad adhesion and I have not had a failure yet.
I never had a failure with properly applied Vynabond either. I did do a poor installation job on a couple of D-rings, waiting too long for the Vynabond to dry (the eat-the-boat parts still scares me) and not using a heat gun immediately before installation to reactivate, but those popped off in hand on a test pull the next day and were successfully reinstalled.
I have found that adding a little perimeter bead of something around the pad, G/flex with a tiny brush or Plumber’s Goop, helps prevent water, sand and grit from infiltrating the edges of the pad.
My preferred method for installing vinyl pad D-rings:
Trace the area with a pencil.
Alcohol wipe the area.
Realize I have wiped off the pencil marks and should have alcohol cleaned first.
Re-trace.
Test how I am going to hold and manipulate the pad into place, especially if working on an area with much curvature.
Coat both surfaces if using Vynabond, or just the boat circle if using G/flex. Heat gun the pad and hull if using Vynabond.
Stick that puppy in place and hope I got it smooth and properly aligned if using instant-stuck Vynabond.
Cover the pad with a square of wax paper.
Lay a couple of large zip-lock bags of sand atop the wax paper covered pad.
Come back every half hour, remove the sandbags and wax paper and check to make sure none of the pad edges are lifted.
Press the edge down with my fingers if it is lifted and hold until stuck.
Recover with wax paper and sandbags.
Repeat.
Go to bed, have nightmares about melting pad sized hole in my boat*
Remove the sandbags and wax paper, paint a perimeter bead of G/flex or Plumbers Goop around the edge of the pad.
*What actually can happen with too much/too wet Vynabond is that it can dissolve enough of the Royalex layers to get down to the foam core, where the remaining solvents turn that foam into a soft, spreading goo.
A story to illustrate. A paddling board acquaintance had expressed doubts about Vynabond solvents eating RX hulls, despite a legion of stories. He was installing some D-rings and swiped the area with acetone, which is safe enough as a cleaning wipe and flashes off quickly.
Unfortunately he didn’t put the cap back on the acetone. Even more unfortunately he left the can sitting in the canoe. Most unfortunately he bumped the canoe before leaving his shop.
The can tipped over and dribbled acetone into the hull all night. Take a guess what happened.