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Gamma, one thing to note about walnut ... it fades with exposure. Not a deal breaker, but it is something to keep in mind. I did up my Kipawa with cherry/walnut gunnels and stems ... the cherry darkens a lot on exposure, walnut lightens and all the contrast I had initially gets more muddy with...

I predict that the bare hull weight after sanding should be in the ball park of 18.5 pounds, standard 6 oz glass if you are careful, should be around 11.2 pounds, 4 oz glass will save a bit at 10 pounds. So ready for trim weight should be close to 28.5 pounds, the wood choice weight cost is ~4...

It's a rule Gamma, most boats end up taking about 72 standard strips .... 1/4" x 7/8" Now if you do use 1/4" strips at 16', that is .33 brdFt per strip and times 72 is about 24 brdFt that you will require, so theoretically you have to build 4 boats now. Waste not, Want not Brian

Glue will find it's way onto and into anything you use. If it's rubber, it peels right off, if it is cloth it makes a hard spot on the surface, if it's shock cord, it sticks and makes a hard spot, but when it stretches, most of it let's go. Additionally, when you use shock cord like I did, then...

Typically, I pack the reels in a small tupperware container and the rod gets broken down and placed in a length 2" PCV tubing cut to fit, 2 end fitting and it becomes a custom case that protects the rod with minimal weight and space ... I usually just lash the rod tube with the spare paddle. Brian

Also, I did go over clamping methods I have tried and what I feel is needed in my current build, you can find those pictures and musings here : https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/solo-on-the-light-side.129862/post-172760 Brian

When you think about clamping strips, there are two main items that need to be addressed 1) holding the strips to the molds/forms and 2) holding the strips to each other. This almost always requires 2 clamping systems. For Item 1 You can use the Cam Buckles as shown and the Wedges will allow...

Great report, thank you

Rescue Link battery has a 5 year battery life ... the purchase is a single up front cost .... so if you don't use it, the cost is amortized over 5 years, period. No plans, no other costs. Comes down to what you want your PLB to do, save you or bring social media on the trail. I picked the...

It's hard to get away from the idea that the wood isn't actually providing measurable strength to the boat, that all comes from the 2 layers of glass/epoxy sheath, once completed. If you are worried about hanging the seat, add a layer at the seat location or maybe take a walk on the dark side...

LOL, you are just trying to get me in the doghouse ... I paddle it with Single Straight, Double and Single Bent depending on the conditions and what I feel like, Options are a good thing IMO

Standard on my solo builds, link to that, in last build https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/light-weight-solo-tripper-build.105054/post-111878

S glass is quite transparent for our build purposes, if you buy the wrong weave it may be a little difficult to wet out .... but it is clear

I read an article about small rodents chewing on synthetic ropes and actually downing hanging canoes. So although I have a pulley system to get the canoe up, I use chain for the boat to sit on. For ridgelines I almost always go to "Zing It" , which is a dynema cord ... nothing stronger or...

In a typical build, I would suggest a couple of useful clamps. The spring clamps in the Jimmi and plain configuration ... sized for you build strips. These are useful for stripping and any gluing that will fit easily in the jaws of the ones you have. On the strongback when you attach "stuff" to...

I would dispute that a good clamping system wouldn't be just as effective as staples holding the strips to the form ... I would agree that it is also more work to do so. If you are waiting for glue to set while stripping, that is a personal choice of what glue you use, not a fault with the...

Thank you for taking the time to share the "making" information. I am curious about your layup and finish sequence: - after the first seal coat, why do a second coat instead of going straight to fiberglass installation? - I initially finished the grips with epoxy/varnish, but gravitated to an...

The precoat means you don't need to worry about the epoxy absorbing in any one area, so you can simply apply a lighter coat and not worry about starving the cloth. The sqeegeeing takes care of any excess, so runs really aren't/weren't a thing with the longer cure. The recoat regime with the...

If you are going to use (or do use) then using an epoxy that allows longer between coats is an eye opener. I swapped to System 3 Silver Tip epoxy this build. Seal coat in the morning, glass in the afternoon with long cure, fill coats next day... no sanding, no blush worries. The build looks...

The only thing you really know with a computer is that eventually it will fail, the real question is will it take the stuff that matters to you to it's grave when that happens. To me there are 2 types of material on a computer, stuff that matters to me and "everything else" ... the stuff that...