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You make a good point Jim and I agree that the quantity of holes and likely the size will impact the decision on how to do the fill. I have done both and it is mostly just that, a judgement call when you reach that point. For a few small spots, it can also be a question of time ... if I am...

The main reason for using epoxy Jim, is simply to let it blend and bond in a continuous operation, glue would have to be left to dry and possibly be sanded, but using epoxy for cracks skips all of that .... just push the glass on as usual and it all disappears into the process Brian

The only issue I can see with sawdust packing, is it will shrink when the epoxy soaks in. I have an alternative method that is pretty easy. 1. put a strip of masking tape to either side of the area to fill, usually done day before I am glassing 2. make up a small batch of epoxy and wetout the...

The foot braces and stud kit were from Sealect, got them at Duckworks 2 years ago, they are a kayak version and were a bit lighter than the regular versions, sadly Duckworks is no more and I couldn't actually find this model elsewhere to give any reference. The strips are all running parallel...

Part 2 -Seat construction and Install The notch cleaned up and the bottom "extra" material marked for removal. This material doesn't really contribute much to the cleat function, so I consider it extra weight, so I take the time to remove it, additionally, I think it improves the aesthetics...

Part 1 - this post exceeded the photo limit The seat on this build was a bit of a design challenge. I find my usual seats aren't as comfy as I would like, with the relatively narrow cross members causing some discomfort after a few hours. Last season, the seat in my current boat was removed...

I don't like to flip it until the exterior glass is on, there is a lot of movement with a bare hull. Are you wanting to flip it for better access? I know I did think the same thing on my first hull, but found it was less work to just get started and sand it. For the tumblehome section power...

This will be a bit of a cleanup post to finish the handles and thwarts part of the build. This part of the build is a bit chaotic for me as I near completion, have to fight impatience (generally, impatience = lesson) and usually there is work progressing on several smaller things at the same...

Just a note on epoxy and varnish, my understanding is that you are supposed to let the epoxy cure fully before varnishing ... the anchors do look good

This is a basic method for determining seat location - locate and mark the boat centre on both sides the gunnels (tape) - cut a stick/rod so it fits under the gunnels at that point If you place the stick at this point, the canoe will drop in the rear. The purpose of marking the gunnel on both...

I just bought a new PFD last year, ended up with one from Stohlquist (they are in Markham, Ontario) here: https://stohlquist.com/collections/mens-pfds?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22672111916&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmunNBhDbARIsAOndKpmMzImu3nYsH1EfWHWtXjfoCnvdiEVmgxsaC0vP6VN9mb4stY4gh9kaAnu7EALw_wcB My...

Given one of the goals for this build is to maintain the same weight, while extending the original 15' design to 17'. Weight is going to be part of every idea/decision made along the way and sometimes you try stuff that is a bit out there, which also means there is a chance something is not...

Time to get some decks done ... I know some folks don't do or like decks on a canoe, but since I tend not to make the canoe stripping fancy, the decks are the only place I get to personalize things, so I do. The history of this deck design has it's roots in the last paddle set I made, the...

Second the cherry, it just keeps looking better and better, walnut tends to fade badly with light exposure. I did the long skarfing for my current build : https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/solo-on-the-light-side.129862/post-172340 and Jim talked me into a small skilsaw strip method post...

Just so I make sure we are both talking about the same thing SG ... I am only talking about ripping strips ... there are a whole variety of wood working operations that use a large variety of different blades ... so I am keeping this focused on strips for canoes, which means generally we are...

The 7.5" thin kerf are much thinner than the 10" thin kerf blades. I have both and use both. Typically you aren't cutting very thick material for strips, so putting the 7.5" blade on a 10" tool is common and saves wood. For "cross cutting" operations, the larger blade and more teeth is going to...

SG, the idea that a bandsaw saves wood needs to be quantified, with respect to your equipment IMO, if you are comparing to a standard 10" saw blade, it translates to quite a difference, but once you start going with something like a 7.5" thin kerf blade, those savings start shrinking. I have a...

adding a point Sailsman63 comment about blades, Skillsaw with a thin kerf blade would be the least waste IMO

I usually just let ppl do what they like, I comment on what I like to do ... but generally there are many ways to do stuff usually. In this case, I will interfere a bit ... all PVA glues (eg. TB III) have a chalk temperature, that is a point where the glue crystalizes instead of setting up. The...

The bulk of the strips I am using, on my current build, came from 3 x 8' white cedar boards I had on hand. Not wanting to face the 200 or so joints "on boat" assembly takes, I just skarfed them together to make a single board, long enough for full length strips. I skarf at 10:1, but my feeling...