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EM White Guide 20'

Thanks for all the help, and that video. I was a bit frustrated so ordered 1/8 bits and walked away from it. With all the great tips you guys provided, think I’ll mess around with my 1/4 bits today and see if I can get acceptable results.

I think when speaking of these bits there is some confusion on sizing. If your bits are 1/4" radius then you're probably right and they're likely too big. That would make them 1/2" across in total.

If they're 1/4" across in total then they're probably ok. I believe these bits are sized by the radius so a bit that was 1/4" wide overall would be a 1/8" radius. But many times people, and also the places that are selling them, will refer to 1/8" radius bits as 1/4"

Alan
 
I found the Bit Nick Schade, uses for bead and coving 3/16 thick strips.
This bit is a 3/32" multi coving bit, available from Magnate.
Look for #6045
Magnate

The beading bit is in my previous post.
I hope this isn't too confusing !
The coving bit was harder to find.

Jim
 
I received the 1/8 bits, and have started cutting bead. This smaller bit works so much better. Pretty monotonous work making these strips. Here’s what the bead looks like.IMG_8670.jpegIMG_8671.jpeg
 
I'm curious as to how you did the sheer... Did you strip down, letting the loose end just hang off of the forms and then cut the sheer when you were done? Seems like that's a lot easier than tapering individual strips like I did on my 1st...
Yes, stripped down then cut. Worked pretty well.
 
Interesting... not to pester but how did you locate the right contour? Drill holes at the bottom edge of the forms & use a string? (I'm just trying to imagine how I
I used a short piece of a strip, put it behind the hull, pushed it up to the bottom of the form, made a pencil mark on the little strip. Then pull the little strip out, line up the pencil mark on the outer hull, and make a new pencil mark at the top. It’s basically transferring the position of the form to the outer hull. In my case, there were three forms I needed to mark on the outer hull. Then lay a batten out intersecting those three marks, draw a line, then cut it out. Hopefully that is a bit clearer then mud.

I just went out and took a photo of what I’m trying to explain, but the sheer has already been cut.IMG_8783.jpeg
 
I’ve developed a bit of an allergy to cedar dust, so I decided to splurge and pick up a Festool sander and dust extractor. Totally blown away with how well it works. Don’t need to wear a respirator anymore, I won’t go so far to say sanding is a joy, but it sure is a lot better than sanding with my Dewalt.
 
That was my experience as well. The friend that has helped me with advice over the years also said the same thing with his Mirka unit. The first time he used it he paused and thought "I should have bought one of these years ago". I still wear a respirator though as it doesn't get it all and you can really smell it once you get to sanding the epoxy. Another benefit with the dust extraction is the extended life of the sandpaper and reduction of pigtails carved into your work by plugged sanding discs.

Boat is looking good (y)
 
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