Probably a bit stiffer but otherwise, pretty much the same. Using the card scarper instead of sandpaper is faster, cleaner, much better at flattening the surface and also a lot more satisfying to use.
True, for ski base shaping the card file is really stiff. For removing fine hairs and smoothing and for wax removal the card files I use are fairly flexible.
DOGPADDLE CANOE AND WOODWORKS
Soon to become a paddle. All parts cut. 17 pieces plus Dynel edging (not shown). The shaft core-last piece in the rear- has already been laminated from 2 strips of red cedar. This will be a Shallow Water Special. Progress photos over the next several days.
Western red cedar is the most common wood that I use for the blades and shaft core. I also use eastern white cedar, and occasionally some repurposed redwood that I have on hand. For ultra light blades (saves and ounce +) I use paulonia.
The shaft facings, blade tip, grip blocks and grip cheeks are hardwood. I use a lot of walnut but also hard maple, cherry and other woods. Often the choices are made by the customer but most leave that up to me.
I have a conversation with the customer to determine their need/want. We discuss the type of paddle (river, shallow water, freestyle...). Then comes a discussion of shaft length. Sometimes their is a special request about grip size and or paddle shaft diameter. Aesthetics are always discussed, which include what woods will be used. Is it going to be a "working" paddle or a "wall hanger". Weight may not be a consideration for a wall hanger. Although all of my paddles are such that they are suitable for display, one built specifically for display may warrant a higher grade of finish. Then there is time frame ......