Bead and Cove vs Other Methods?

In a 7yro thread on Jimmy Clamps to avoid staples on Stripper builds, Jim Dodd mentioned he is a big fan of Bead and Cove joints. I thought anyone who had any type of education in Stripper building used them, that there was no other viable option for a reasonable individual. However, the Stripper I'd like to build, 2.5 boats from now, might perhaps benefit from other methods. I wonder what other ways there might be to shape strip joints?

I've gone back to square edge strips on my last couple builds. Cutting the bead and cove is perhaps one of my least favorite parts of the building process and I don't find it all that difficult to fit the individual strips with a tiny hand planer. It helps that I'm not super picky. Also, many of the strips can be installed square edge with no planing/fitting. It's not until you reach the chine that the bead and cove helps. On at least one build I started with square edge strips and switched to bead and cove at the chine to save some time cutting all the B&C joints.

Alan

Allan touches on a couple of good points.

Like almost all wood working projects equipment and experience plays a big role in how a particular bit of work, like bead and coving is approached. My first experience with making strips and doing the bead and cove was arduous and I was glad when I finished. Since then the production methods/experience and equipment used have changed and the task is really much easier and I really don't mind anymore.

Personally, the bead and cove does aid (IMO) in making secure joints and holding the strips together on "curvy" boats, on flatter designs or sections, the flat strips would likely be just as easy to use .... however .... realize that because something looks easy or easier, does not actually make it so, you will need to practice the method to be proficient. There is no replacement for the experience of having done something, read all you want, that gives you the idea, but doing a thing gives you the experience to actually make it work.

"It helps that I am not super picky" this is actually a very important point in the whole process. We don't all see the wood and the finish the same way. I would suggest that the whole debate of stapled versus stapless builds is predicated on that very point. You need to be mindful of how you see the finished work and whether it suits your style/vision. With flat strips, you have to watch both sides of a strip installation to make sure there are no gaps, you can have a tight outer and open inner. With bead and cove it is seated or not and is easier to spot an unseated strip (IMO).

Mixing strip type/widths is also a very effective building strategy for challenging curves/shapes ... using wider strips on flat sections, narrower on challenges. This is going to be a situational solution though, if you can make strips on the fly, it is no issue, if you have limited shop space ( like me ) then your strips are all made before you start. Meaning you have to plan the various strips you may want to use in the various sections and you mill them ahead of time.

Brian

I've only built 2, but both were done without bead and cove. I have no complaints but that may be akin to not knowing what chocolate tastes like.

Thanks folks. With respect to practice, that is somewhat what this particular build would be. Rehearsal for carving carvel planking, but on softer wood and where gaps aren't as crucial.

Guessing station spacing is more important with square edged strips as well. The bead and cove assists in aligning subsequent strips, with square edged a builder would want more guidance as the glue cures.

Tape helps, as do spring clamps (or any clamp, for that matter).

Edit: ...and a couple of strokes with 60 grit takes care of the rest.

Bead and Cove, helps in the entire process.
It reduces the amount of sanding, due mostly to excess glue, and misaligned strips.
It also saves time in assembling the hull.
Butt joints are easier with bead and cove also.
To Me ? It's a No Brainer !

I built my first few canoes, by hand beveling strips.
Once I did my first B & C strip boat ? I was sold.

My Spring clamps are so handy.
Even if you build only one ? It acts as a third hand, to hold the strips in place. while you position the strip for stapling . If that is your method ( A good one by the way )

You can build your canoe any way you like ! I share what has worked for me !

I also want to add, I have used my Jimmie clamps so long ? I need to replace the inner tube sections.

Jim

I had originally intended to bevel each strip and I think I even bought the Robo Bevel from Guillemot Kayaks (though I have no idea where it might be now). About that time, I ran across a great deal on a used shaper so I switched to B&C instead. I have no complaints and may, someday, try one bevelling strips. Then again, I may try one with inner & outer stems too... Maybe one with inner stems only...

So many options and none of them are wrong.

My PERSONAL opinion is stripper built is best overall all-around way to build a boat, all factors included and balanced. Super light, super stiff, very durable and quite strong, painstaking and up there in time consuming but beginners can pull it off. And it looks GORGEOUS.
And it seems Bead and Cove is one of the elements which allows them to go together so well so simply. I'm sold on the benefits but it'll be extra hard to do on mine.