I change the position of my feet quite often, sometimes I almost stomp. I have an old MR in the heavy layup. I don't know the boat, I wonder if the hull is too flimsy and if too much flex could cause damage.
I'd have to wonder if the floor and hull are rigid enough to withstand changing foot positions and "walking" to alter trim. At a paddlefest I once asked Charlie Wilson about poling a Swift Pack 13 and as soon as he stopped looking at me to see if I was insane and with no hesitation he said this...
By products of complete combustion when burning propane are water vapor and carbon dioxide. If there is insufficient oxygen carbon monoxide can be formed. Tightly sealed spaces should have plenty of outside air when using heaters that aren't vented. For safety I'd install a carbon monoxide...
Fill and soak the hole with thinned linseed oil for a couple of days, apply gentle upward pressure on the bottom of bolt (with nut removed) and back it out.
So now I wonder if there is a reason these handles are installed 90 degrees differently than my method. Easier to install that way as it requires a shorter machine screw, but these high end canoe makers seem to pride themselves on their build quality. Am I missing something?
More "beef"...
I've had pretty good success in keeping the cart and canoe aligned by running lines from the each side of the cart to a forward point on the canoe. On shorter paths with obstacles I just grasp the lines from the cart in the hand I'm pulling the canoe with. I'm also planning to find a foam or...
I find it interesting that the two first posters in this thread extolling the relief of escaping modern day ties to electronics have almost 5,000 posts between them
The only times I thought of head protection, while poling, have been when I'm unable to fend off overhanging branches because I need both hands on the pole.